Replacement for La Sportiva Kataki

What’s the best option?

The Katana is pretty close, but the heel is significantly different. What features exactly did the Kataki have that you want in the new shoe? 

Joel May wrote:

The Katana is pretty close, but the heel is significantly different. What features exactly did the Kataki have that you want in the new shoe? 

I have the katana and liked the kataki and am looking for a more agressive shoe but still focused on trad 

Eliot Hack wrote:

I have the katana and liked the kataki and am looking for a more agressive shoe but still focused on trad 

I’d check out the Boostic in that case.

For granite trad/sport climbing, around 3-5 pitches or any crack climbing, I like the katana lace (43.5)  For 1-2 pitch, steeper granite trad/sport with thin edging and or bouldering, the Otaki's are great (43). They can handle crack climbing and smear fine. The Skwamas are weird. They are an aggressive slipper but are very flexible and sensitive and are nice for bouldering and gym climbing (42.5). 

Joel May wrote:

I’d check out the Boostic in that case.

The Boostics rule for me, Katana lace seemed close in performance but much more narrow. I have nevered tried the Kataki, so wtf do I know?

Any laced options?

I've used the Scarpa Instinct Lace for similar climbs that I've used the Katakis for. For me, they are quite comparable on single pitch hard (for me) trad lines that require edging and jamming.

Eliot Hack wrote:

What’s the best option?

I would go for the Otaki.

https://olympusmountaineering.com/2021/02/14/la-sportiva-otaki-climbing-shoes-review/

Why not just keep using Katakis… they are still around on EU sites 

I'll put a plug here given the nature of the thread.  I stockpiled too many Kataki's once they were discontinued in the US.  I have a 43.5 to part with if anybody needs one.  

I have a pair of almost new pair of Katakis sz 45.5 that I'd sell if anyone needs them...

Will miss Kataki as well but hope to resole mine couple more times. Bunch of sizes still available on epicTv shop.epictv.com/en/climbing…

Used to climb with Otakis but eventually got tired of them stretching out (I could cinch the Velcro really tight), so I got a pair of Kataki.  Otaki definitely seem less stiff and softer and less pointy than Katakis.  To be honest for almost everything outdoor I just use TC Pros now...

How do you all size kataki? I wear 44 katana lace, 43.5 skwama, 44/44.5 tc pro, 44/44.5 Miura lace.

I was thinking 44 kataki? 

For techy sport/hard trad climbing, I size the Kataki similar to my skwama: 39.5 Kataki, 39.5 Skwama, TC Pro as comfy all day shoe at 40.

I could have gone down a half size with the stretch they have know (they're also on their first resole, with Grip2 instead of Edge), but it isn't worth it IMO for the majority of sport climbs I've used them for and makes jamming slightly nicer.

Levi Goldman wrote:

How do you all size kataki? I wear 44 katana lace, 43.5 skwama, 44/44.5 tc pro, 44/44.5 Miura lace.

I was thinking 44 kataki? 

42 katana lace, 42.5 kataki. In katanas toes curved bit more.