Does Climbing Magazine Hate Sport Climbers?

https://www.climbing.com/bonus-columns/5-ways-to-make-people-love-your-routes/

A few highlights:
1) "If you choose to engineer run outs into your sport climb (i.e. pass up obvious stances where a climber could clip a bolt), and allow today’s squeamish tribe to experience a jolt of fear, they will pronounce your climb a shitpile and call you an asshole in the comments on Mountain Project."

2) "Many of the routes I cut my teeth on have been retro-bolted to assuage the fragile psyches of today’s climbers."

3) "Concomitant with the fact that sport climbers scare easily is the psychological detail that they have very fragile egos. If you wish to be loved by them you must coddle their desire to appear mighty. Therefore, let this rule be burned into your heart like a brand: Thou shall not sandbag. "

4) " [Clean the route] because if a sport climber touches dust, dirt, lichen, moss, bird poop or a loose flake on your route, they will tell everyone that the route is a shitpile. "
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Based on this article, why bother creating more sport routes?  Of course, the last statement in the article is: "Remember, if you appear to take yourself too seriously, people will attack you on Mountain Project and tag your climb a shitpile."  Has anyone been trolling Jeff Jackson (the author)?

Everybody hates sport climbers! (But at least they aren't boulderers.)

Climbing magazine? My grandmum read that, along with Readers Digest and Good Housekeeping.

If that guy gets paid to write articles for Climbing, damn.

Us sport climbers truly are oppressed   

Phillip Bonnell wrote:

Us sport climbers truly are oppressed   

More like, repressed!

When I see Boulders I always think "AT LEAST THE AREN'T SPORT CLIMBERS". 

A V wrote:

Honestly I fail to see the distinction between mountainproject posts and articles published on climbing.com

It's like a typical post on mountainproject but you also get paid to do it for some reason. Money - who makes it and who doesn't and how much and why - is ultimately pretty strange and nonsensical.

By me posting this on MP it (may) creates a discussion.  Climbing Magazine wins because it gets a little more traffic.  Climbing Magazine loses but it can deter sport climbers from finding their article credible and are fueling hatred.

It's like a car magazine or any magazine, people that can write well get paid to write, they don't get paid to work on cars. Editors, edit & place stories where they want. 

People that do things well do them & don't waste much time writing. 

What's a sport climber????

Why, indeed? I have installed something in the order of 50 sport routes over the years. It never ceased to amaze me how difficult it could be to convince my regular climbing partners to go check them out. Mostly bullet limestone but some chunder too. But seriously. My read is the only people adventurous enough are your friends who also bolt, because they get it. Everyone else is squeamish. But that's why you do it for yourself, not for accolades.

M Montoya wrote:

Jackson's middle name...

Now lets go build a fire with gas in a national park!

That wasn't Jackson,  that was Jonathan Thesenga, and it was a waterfall of fire on New Years

I am kind of surprised that if you have the moxey and commitment to put up routes of any kind, that you care what a magazine designed for mass consumption has to say. Just keep contributing to our community by putting up good routes and let the community will decide what is good.

Jay Crew wrote:

That wasn't Jackson,  that was Jonathan Thesenga, and it was a waterfall of fire on New Years

Confirmed and interesting too, 

"In that April 15 report, the NPS claimed that Thesenga had been convicted in Federal Court for arson (a felony) and vandalism of natural resources. In fact, Thesenga was cited by rangers for “fires lighted or smoldering material discarded in a manner to create a public hazard,” certainly not a felony offense as the NPS reported. And he was convicted of same — a misdemeanor not a felony!"

Sums up The Front Range rather well.

Thesenga lit the top of a Josh boulder on fire with white gas. The gas combusted and disappeared and the boulder was not "harmed."

Nonetheless it created an uproar on the climbing boards of the day and a bunch of people who never so much as set a foot in Josh went to Thesenga's employer and demanded he be fired. And those sonsabitches did just that. 

Btw Thesenga is responsible for one of the coolest soloing videos ever:   youtube.com/watch?v=lwCyM84…

Sport climbing is neither, and Climbing Magazine is a total rag now....short answer, they both suck

Todd Berlier wrote:

people still make blanket statements about which discipline of climbing is the best? lol.

just so y'all know if milky way isn't your favorite candy bar your a fucking idiot. nuts in candy? stupid.

I'm snickering ;-)

Gumby King wrote:

I'm snickering ;-)

Just don't be butterfingered and drop mounds of them.

Todd Berlier wrote:

people still make blanket statements about which discipline of climbing is the best? lol.

just so y'all know if milky way isn't your favorite candy bar your a fucking idiot. nuts in candy? stupid.

It was a shitpost, you can’t teach an old dog new Twix

Marc801 C wrote:

Just don't be butterfingered and drop mounds of them.

Oh marc, just Give Me A Break!