Best Shoes for Aiding

I just blew out my 3+ year old approach shoes aiding this weekend. With the quiver of footwear that I have, I am looking for an aiding specific approach shoe. Priorities are stiffness of sole (comfort), climbing ability for free moves, durability (in that order). Any recommendations?

Tx4

I am interested in the question as well. 

Also, has anyone every put stiff inserts in approach shoes for standing in aiders? 

Cheers from Osaka,

John 

Tx4 or Scarpa Mescalito depending of the shape of your feet.

John Shultz wrote:

I am interested in the question as well. 

Also, has anyone every put stiff inserts in approach shoes for standing in aiders? 

Cheers from Osaka,

John 

I have custom insoles for my flat feet, I use those in the TX4s which adds some rigidity. However, TX4s are pretty stiff on their own which is why they are a good option for walls and standing in aiders for hours 

Thanks for that.. 

Has anyone owned the TX4s and the Five Tennie? How much stiffer are the TX4s? Also, anyone try the Sportiva Guide Leather? 

Batting gloves save my hands now, but I lose a lot of toenails to aid climbing. 

Cheers!

I have used the men's version for years now. Super burly for standing in ladders all day . They might not make em anymore but it's worth the effort to look 

https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/product/168724/adidas-terrex-scope-gtx-approach-shoes-womens

The TXguide or TXguide leathers are stiffer and more comfortable than TX4s. The sizing runs a little smaller so size up a little bit. 

TC Pro in a comfortable size is ideal. Great for free moves obviously and pretty stiff. It's not the most durable though, and you might wear through the front of the toe sooner than you'd like. If looking for an approach shoe, I've used the guide tennie and liked it. It's very stiff and probably the best approach shoe for making free moves.

Brian Oldfield wrote:

TC Pro in a comfortable size is ideal. Great for free moves obviously and pretty stiff. It's not the most durable though, and you might wear through the front of the toe sooner than you'd like.

I can't post anything here in response to this because of Guideline #1

@Kevin you could try making another suggestion and arguing for why it's better :)

We all have different tastes and preferences, especially in aid climbing

Ryan Sheridan wrote:

I have used the men's version for years now. Super burly for standing in ladders all day . They might not make em anymore but it's worth the effort to look 

https://www.rei.com/rei-garage/product/168724/adidas-terrex-scope-gtx-approach-shoes-womens

The Gtx Scope are my favorite wall shoes. When they stopped making them I scoured the inter webs and found two pairs in my size.  I have a pair I’m sending for new toes and soles, one pair I’m currently using and a back up pair in the gear room.  I have hopes that someone will release a comparable shoe by the time I wear out the ones I have.  

Skot Richards wrote:

The Gtx Scope are my favorite wall shoes. When they stopped making them I scoured the inter webs and found two pairs in my size.  I have a pair I’m sending for new toes and soles, one pair I’m currently using and a back up pair in the gear room.  I have hopes that someone will release a comparable shoe by the time I wear out the ones I have.  

I do the same thing with 5.10 Guide Tennies..

I buy them new (got a couple pair 50% off) and send them straight to the Rubber Room for bumpers and soles (the newer Chinese manufactured ones delaminate immediately) 

I’ve got 3 pairs in the rotation..

Every time I think the stock is gone for good- I’ll find a couple more online.. but they’ll probably be totally gone soon.. 

any pair of skate shoes from the thrift store?

Christian Black wrote:

The TXguide or TXguide leathers are stiffer and more comfortable than TX4s. The sizing runs a little smaller so size up a little bit. 

I have wide-ish feet and couldn't get them to fit right. They definitely run narrow, so worth noting if you have wider feet. 

1st gen la sportiva trangos were great in the aiders but kind of sucked smearing Zion slabs.

I wore scarpa super rats once. Good for freeing but jugging wore through the toes.

If I’m going to spend the night on a wall again I’d want at least a 3/4 shank. 

https://akuoutdoor.us/products/rock-dfs-gtx-mens-approach-shoes

I have just started using these this summer, and really like them. They are well made and are holding up really well. The rubber is pretty sticky, but not as sticky as 5.10 or Sportiva. But probably more durable.

Anybody ever try the Boreal Big Wall Shoes? 

I think they have been around for a while. Looks nice and stiff, sorta a cross between something like a Sportiva Trango and a rock shoe. 

I put a stiff midsole in fire flat-bottom boots (early 80’s model) and resoled the heels in dot pattern. They worked pretty well. 

I have been rotating thru 3 pairs of Five Ten Guide Tennies with the high top, but they are all knackered. I need the high top for use with my ankle cam when froggie jugging in space. 

Any recommendations for a high top wall shoe? 

Peter Zabrok wrote:

I have been rotating thru 3 pairs of Five Ten Guide Tennies with the high top, but they are all knackered. I need the high top for use with my ankle cam when froggie jugging in space. 

Any recommendations for a high top wall shoe? 

Tx4 mid gtx