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Best 10 and 11 trad routes in Red Rocks
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Planning a trip to RR in early November. Would be keen to learn about some of the must do 10 and 11 trad routes. Bonus points if they are MP and have cracks (Double bonus for hands). |
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Have you done any research at all? I see you have climbed at RR before....anything in mind? |
Grug M wrote: Looking at nightcrawler, epinephrine, dream of wild turkeys, desert crack, yin yang crack, and armatron. Open to any recommendations. Been a while since i was there and i was only leading 5.9ish at that point |
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Go do cloud tower. The 6th pitch hand crack is epic. If the crux pitch is too hard, it’s easy to pull through on small cams. The whole route has excellent crack climbing. Spring Break is incredible but not really crack climbing. Our Father, Triassic Sands. Wholesome Fullback is pretty good too. These three (and more) easily go in one day. Haven’t done it yet, but apparently The Delicate Sound of Thunder is excellent. Orange Clonus is a reasonably good time with a loonnnng cool pitch with a ring lock crux. (Link 3 pitches together) |
Michael Atlas wrote: The Nightcrawler is wonderful, albeit not necessarily a hand crack. Triassic Sands is great, too. |
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Chicken Eruptus has some amazing face climbing. The Graduate has amazing fists |
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If you wanna get on some handcrack, fear and loathing is one of my absolute favorites. this one, not the sport route. The approach will likely take a couple hrs. Lots of good recommendations here: https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/120109356/red-rock-routes-that-climb-like-the-nightcrawler The fox and out of control are also amazing crack climbs, but only single pitches |
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The Fox for sure |
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Peter, I keep a list of the climbs I am willing to repeat. I have climbed most 5.10-11 multi pitch routes at Red Rock. Essentially, these routes represent my favorite (top 30%) of multipitch, mostly trad, routes at the grade you requested that I have climbed in Red Rock. You can explore dowclimbing.com for more of my beta or research them further on mountain project of course. Single pitch climbs are too numerous to mention really. They are in reasonable order from east to west. Any of these you come across in your plans when scouting, I believe are worth getting on for one reason or another. Good Luck Holed Up, 5.10b, 3 Pitches *** Swing Shift, 5.10c, 7 Pitches *** La Cierta Edad, 5.10c, 5 Pitches *** Unfinished Symphony, 5.11d, 5 Pitches *** Fear and Loathing, 5.10c, 3 Pitches *** Orange Clonus, 5.10d, 7 Pitches *** Brass Balls, 5.10d, 5 Pitches *** Spectrum, 5.11aR, 7 Pitches *** Birdlaw, 5.10b, 2 Pitches*** Slot Machine, 5.10b, 2 Pitches *** Risky Business, 5.10c, 4 Pitches *** Bloodline, 5.11a, 4 Pitches *** Next Century, 5.10d, 2 Pitches *** Walker Spur, 5.10b, 3 Pitches *** Edge of the Sun, 5.10d, 3 Pitches *** Chocolate Flakes, 5.10d, 4 Pitches *** Dog Police, 5.10c, 2 Pitches *** Buffon's Needle Problem, 5.10, 7 Pitches*** Tooth or Consequences, 5.11c, 8 Pitches *** Challenger, 5.10c, 6 Pitches *** Adventure Punks, 5.10d, 5 Pitches *** Ten Minute Shift, 5.11b, 5 Pitches *** Mayday Malefactor, 5.10c, 5 Pitches *** Time's Up, 5.11d, 6 Pitches *** The Nightcrawler, 5.10c, 4 Pitches *** Pro Choice, 5.11a, 4 Pitches *** Cloud Tower, 5.11d, 7 Pitches *** Clod Tower, 5.10c, 5 Pitches *** Cayenne Corners, 5.10d, 5 Pitches *** Blade Runner, 5.10b, 3 Pitches *** Unimpeachable Groping, 5.10b, 7 Pitches *** All You Can Eat, 5.10d, 5 Pitches *** Sundog, 5.10a, 5 Pitches *** Solar Flare, 5.10c, 5 Pitches *** Black Orpheus, 5.10a, 11 Pitches *** Chicken Lips, 5.10b, 6 Pitches *** Ringtail, 5.10d, 5 Pitches *** Mountain Beast, 5.10d, 8 Pitches *** Eagle Dance, 5.10c, A0, 9 Pitches *** Impulse, 5.10b, 4 Pitches *** The Warrior, 5.11a, 7 Pitches *** Cinnamon Hedgehog, 5.10a, 6 Pitches *** Gift of the Wind Gods, 5.10d, 9 Pitches *** Woman of Mountain Dreams, 5.11a, 16 Pitches *** Resolution Arete, 5.11d, 20 Pitches *** Inti Watana, 5.10c, 12 Pitches *** The Maw, 5.10+, 4 Pitches *** Celtic Cracks, 5.10d, 15 Pitches *** Mustang Cracks, 5.10d, 4 Pitches *** Dragon's Mouth, 5.10d, 5 Pitches *** Dragon, 5.10, 5 Pitches *** Return to Forever, 5.10d, 2 Pitches *** Ixtlan, 5.11c, 8 Pitches *** Sandblast, 5.10a, 2 Pitches *** Triassic Sands, 5.10b, 5 Pitches *** Amber, 5.10c, 4 Pitches *** Prince of Darkness, 5.10c, 6 Pitches *** Dream of Wild Turkeys, 5.10a, 10 Pitches *** Gobbler, 5.10a, 3 Pitches *** Sour Mash, 5.10a, 6 Pitches *** Overhanging Hangover, 5.10a, 2 Pitches *** Yellow Rose of Texas, 5.11a, 8 Pitches *** Texas Tower Connection, 5.10aR, 12 Pitches *** Twixt Cradle and Stone, 5.10c, 6 Pitches *** Phein Air, 5.11a, 5 Pitches *** Black Mamba, 5.10, 3 Pitches *** Sick for Toys, 5.10+, 4 Pitches *** The Schwa, 5.10d, 2 Pitches *** Action by Knight, 5.10b, 3 Pitches*** Western Swing, 5.10b, 8 Pitches *** |
Dow Williams wrote: Correction: summitpost.com
Correction: This route is called “Burros Gone Wild” and was put up by myself (AKA local sport climber) and Sawyer Bullock on December 11th, 2017. Here is some video footage from the FA for inspiration. Glad you enjoyed it, Dow. |
Dow Williams wrote: The world's best 5.10 climber has spoken through ye olde ballsack bullhorn all while pimping his site that looks like something from before Y2K. Honestly I'm just shocked it's not hosted on geocities. Wow Dilliams. |
Andre H. wrote: Why the hate? Edited to remove name. |
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Not me Frank. |
Josh Janes wrote: Thanks, Josh. Hope all is well in RR for you. |
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That was a great list, if more people shared lists like this RR wouldn't be the absolute shit show it currently is. |
M M wrote: Lists like this have been shared ad nauseam for years, people just don't use the search function...Red Rock would be less of a shitshow if it didn't have the distinction of being an incredibly approachable climbing area that happens to be near a major metro tourist destination. |
W L wrote: Would it be less chossy if it wasn’t incredibly approachable and happened to be near a major metro? |
