Mountain Project Logo

Short approaches in red rocks

Original Post
Jordan Wood · · Springfield, IL · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

I am passing through vegas and will get there around 1-2pm. If like to do a route in red rocks if possible. What are some crags with relatively short approaches? I’d like to find something in the 4-6 pitch range but realize that might be a tall order for a short approach. I’d appreciate any ideas. Thanks!

dave custer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 2,873

Not quite what you're asking for, but multi pitch, not much approach. It'll gets lots of afternoon sun:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/107384640/classic-crack-of-calico

Maybe anything at:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/106039311/first-creek-slabs

An advantage of first creek is that the loop road/parking won't expire on you at dusk. And lots of late day shade at the slabs.

If you're motivated, climb fast, don't get stuck behind other folks, don't get lost on the approach, etc. you might be able to sneak in ascents of things like Birdland, Geronimo, Olive Oil, Frogland, Buhla's Book, Johny Vegas, Dark Shadows, Cat-in-the-Hat, or other climbs not too far up into a canyon.

Robert S · · Driftwood, TX · Joined Sep 2018 · Points: 661

If by a short approach you're talking like 10-15 minutes given your arrival time and sunset, I'd go to Calico Basin or the First Pullout. Nothing there is 4 pitches, but there is a 2-pitch 5.3 called Chips and Salsa from the First Pullout and a 2-pitch 5.4 called Abbey Road at Moderate Mecca in Calico Basin. Both have a nice first pitch and a forgettable second, and both have walkoffs.

I can't think of anything else in the area with at least 4 pitches and an approach of less than 45-60 minutes, but maybe someone will correct me. You can get 4 pitches on Big Bad Wolf (5.9 sport) in Calico Basin if you count the short last pitch, and there's also 3 pitches nearby on All That Jazz (5.8 trad, though a bolt protects the crux), but neither has what I'd call a "short" approach, though I wouldn't call either one "long" either.

Austin R · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 2

Angel food wall isn’t so bad and has lots of classics. Definitely not a slog and an all day thing. I usually roll up around 7-730 and am back at the car around 230-300pm. 20 mins approaches or so. If you can’t walk for 20 minutes maybe consider another hobby.

Kevin Heckeler · · Las Vegas, NV · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,638
Austin R wrote:

If you can’t walk for 20 minutes maybe consider another hobby.

I think the OP is factoring their late arrival into their approach time needing to be lower for any chance to accomplish multipitch sans headlamp.

Physical Graffiti 5.6 is 2 pitches trad and worth doing, it will be in the shade starting in the afternoon.  Big Bad Wolf 5.9 sport, 3 pitches, is right next to it.

Steve Levin · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2001 · Points: 952
Terry E wrote:

The approach to Frigid Air Buttress, in Icebox Canyon, is relatively short. 20-25 minutes. Afternoon shade. Bunch of multi pitch climbs there, up to 8 pitches:

https://www.mountainproject.com/area/105732099/frigid-air-buttress

Starting up Frigid Air Buttress mid-afternoon might not be a great idea. The descent does not follow the route, requires two ropes, and is relatively complicated for Red Rock. 

If I was arriving that late I'd just go cragging to get some pitches in and ensure I was back to town in time for happy hour. Or at least before midnight.

If you insist on multi-pitching it, I'd pick a climb that just rappels the route, so you could bail anytime. 

Just opinions on a MP thread though.

Terry E · · San Francisco, CA · Joined Aug 2011 · Points: 43

I agree. All excellent points, especially on doing a climb one can rap the same way. Deleted my post. Don’t want to contribute to someone having to spend a night out.

Mike Climberson · · Earth · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 155

Frigid Air Buttress

Jordan Wood · · Springfield, IL · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

Thanks for the suggestions!  I will take a look at those areas.  Frigid air looks nice but I see your point about the descent…

Adam W · · TX/Nevada · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 532

Man's Best Friend is only 2 pitches but might be the laziest approach to any route in red rock canyon.

Matt Kuehl · · Las Vegas · Joined Nov 2010 · Points: 1,712

If I were you I'd hike into the Riding Hood Wall in Calico Basin (outside the loop road and closer drive) and hike in the 15min to do Physical Graffiti 5.6, 2 Pitches. If you've got time hike 10 minutes back down to the base and climb Big Bad Wolf 5.9-, 3 Pitches.  Logistically straight forward. Then...

Most importantly, after doing just the one or both routes, I'd make sure to bring some cold beverages of your choice and scramble up to the top of the ridge above those routes (above the descent gully for the walkoff). It's a great viewpoint that overlooks both sides of the ridge so Red Rock proper and Calico Basin. A great spot to watch the desert sunset.  Always a treat and it will certainly inspire you for when you have more time to venture into the canyons. 

phylp phylp · · Upland · Joined May 2015 · Points: 1,137

I took a glance at your tick list - are you looking for easy solos, not roped climbs?  I agree with everyone that Calico Basin has the fastest approach but if you want something a little longer, take a look at Lazy Butress in Black Velvet Canyon.  It will take about 30 minutes max of driving from the late Night Trailhead parking area to get to the parking/trailhead for Whiskey Peak, and then Lazy Buttress is the closest of the formations.  For a fit person, about 30 min to base of routes.  Several options of routes to choose from on that formation up to Lover's Ledge.  From there you go up a little and cross over into the Whiskey Peak descent Gully.  If you are super fast, you are kind of passing by the base of Rad Cliff on the descent gulley and there are a couple of things on the left side that you do a walk off.  So no rope, no rapping. Very detailed photos and approach/decent info in Handren. I actually think this would be faster than anything in First Creek.

Jordan Wood · · Springfield, IL · Joined Apr 2013 · Points: 0

I really appreciate all the feedback.  However, I don't think I'm going to make it to Red Rocks at all this time.  I'm heading to Zion with brother for the week and we are flying into Vegas around 1pm.  I was hoping we might be able to stop and get a route in before dark and then drive up to Springdale. However, after some discussion, we decided to just head straight there and do some cragging before dark.  Thanks anyway for all the beta!

cassondra l · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 335
Mike Climberson wrote:

Frigid Air Buttress

No.

cassondra l · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2008 · Points: 335
Jordan Wood wrote:

I really appreciate all the feedback.  However, I don't think I'm going to make it to Red Rocks at all this time.  I'm heading to Zion with brother for the week and we are flying into Vegas around 1pm.  I was hoping we might be able to stop and get a route in before dark and then drive up to Springdale. However, after some discussion, we decided to just head straight there and do some cragging before dark.  Thanks anyway for all the beta!

Good idea. You will likely enjoy yourselves more that way. Maybe catch Red Rock on your way back if you have the time

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Nevada
Post a Reply to "Short approaches in red rocks"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.