dmm revolver, any benefit?
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Do you find any benefit to the DMM revolver? I've tried it in a mock rescue situation and found no perceived benefit over using a standard carabiner in a Z pulley, but found very noticeable difference in friction when using a standard pulley. I know the main advertised benefit is for reducing rope drag but found this harder to test. I often carry one revolver on a quickdraw and use it in certain situations where the route makes a big direction change. An I wasting my time with it or has anyone found that it does noticeably reduce rope drag? |
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I have one, but haven't taken it climbing in some time. I do carry a micro traxion instead because of its added safety in linking pitches and simul climbing. It's obviously also much more versatile in self rescue situations. For reducing rope drag, I just extend the placement with a sling or, if necessary, back clean. |
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This has been discussed in prior threads. I'll save you the searching and summarize what others have already figured out. It reduces friction under very light loads, but under heavy loads the pulley doesn't line up correctly and it does nothing to reduce friction. The revolver's actual use is in reducing rope drag when placed strategically as running protection. I bring mine racked to a double-length sling on occasion; I can think of only a few routes where it would be useful. It's pretty niche. |
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I think it makes a significant friction difference for directional changes and I like to carry them on a longer sling for that reason. I have noticed that sometimes, however, the rope is not always running over the pulley wheel. DMM and Petzl make a larger 'true' pulley carabiner, but they look too beefy, let alone expensive, to even bother with. |
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I have a locking Revolver on a draw, that’s part of my set of quickdraws. I find it helps with drag a bit at times. It’s certainly not like a quality pulley, but a LOT better than just another biner. Makes sense that it would be even better on a longer sling. |
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Got a few at a local gear shop for $4 or $5 a piece. They said the rep brought a ton a while ago and just told them to get rid of everything ASAP. Haven’t used them much. Find the rope doesn’t slot into the pulley groove all that well for alpine draws. Maybe it helps some, probably. Helps for zipping packs down canyoneering |
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I never liked the revolvers, as others mentioned, they’re not particularly efficient. I have a couple of the Petzl RollClips that I much prefer. I mostly use them for various route setting applications and I’m also an arborist and I use them a lot in that line of work. https://m.petzl.com/US/en/Professional/Pulleys/ROLLCLIP-Z |
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I use petzl rollnclips for tree work all the time. It definitely helps but I don’t see much reason to spend $50 on one for rock climbing. Maybe if you want an ultra smooth top rope setup IMO anything you’d want to use for on route would also be solved by just bringing longer slings or climb on half ropes |
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Petzl Ultralegere, the plastic pulley sheave, from another arborist. |
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Personal pleasure pulley If you know you know |
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Brocky wrote: That’s super nifty I had no clue these exist |
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Not exactly the same, but Alpine Savvy did a test with a 2:1 hauling system and found that the Revolver was WORSE than a normal HMS carabiner (Petzl Attache): https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog//ma-in-the-real-world Another test found the same result: https://www.alpinesavvy.com/blog/progress-capture-efficiencies-of-various-devices |