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Tether for setting up TR anchors

Original Post
Josh Rappoport · · Natick, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 31

What is the best way to secure yourself when setting up a TR anchor when you have top access to anchor bolts?

If you approach two bolts from a walk-up and want to secure yourself while setting up the anchor and throwing down the rope, how do you best tether yourself to the bolts as you work?  I see people (a) not tether in - which often makes me uncomfortable, (b) use a sling, which isn't a great idea in this situation - https://vimeo.com/27293337 (I know the criticism regarding this video, but still...)

What do other people use?

I was thinking a Beal Dynaloop girth hitched to harness and then clipped to bolts might be work

Any other ideas?

Mitch Steiner · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0

Petzl Connect works pretty well for me. 

Josh Rappoport · · Natick, MA · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 31
Mitch Steiner wrote:

Petzl Connect works pretty well for me. 

Indeed

I have the Dual for use when doing long series of raps which I have used for this.  However it is pretty expensive and sort of bulky

Nate A · · SW WA · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gWOiqPAZDw

This video is worth watching and discusses most of the relevant ways to attach yourself to the rock. (Though I have a minor disagreement about why girth hitching direct to your belay loop can be dangerous.)

Ackley The Improved · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0

I have a loop of blue water dynamic 8 mil Prussic girth hitched to my harness I clip to a bolt.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

Use the other end of the rope, plus an alpine draw.

Jeremy Bauman · · Lakewood, CO · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 1,047
Josh Rappoport wrote:

What is the best way to secure yourself when setting up a TR anchor when you have top access to anchor bolts?

If you approach two bolts from a walk-up and want to secure yourself while setting up the anchor and throwing down the rope, how do you best tether yourself to the bolts as you work?  I see people (a) not tether in - which often makes me uncomfortable, (b) use a sling, which isn't a great idea in this situation - https://vimeo.com/27293337 (I know the criticism regarding this video, but still...)

What do other people use?

I was thinking a Beal Dynaloop girth hitched to harness and then clipped to bolts might be work

Any other ideas?

Best way -- IMO is to have a second section of rope with a gri-gri so that you can rap to the bolts and keep yourself tethered above. If you are then going to rap down the setup top-rope, then you'll need an ATC to rap the double line. 

To answer the question you're asking about the best tether method for connecting to accessible from the top bolts -- then the *best* imo would be a Petal connect adjust. A key thing I typically do in this situation, is to pre-build my anchor (usually a quad in this case) and clip/tether into it prior to exposing myself to the edge. Then all you have to do is, carefully approach the edge, reach over/around etc, clip one side of the quad (so now you are connected to one bolt) and then the other (now just a few seconds later, you're on both bolts). This technique will work with any tether system you choose and will minimize the time you're in an exposed position. 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Dissenting opinion: slings are good enough, in most situations. The main issue is that it is static, so if you took a factor 2 fall on it it produces higher forces. However, I don't think this is that big of a risk in this specific scenario. If you were to fall off while sitting in the cliff edge setting up an anchor, it's likely to be a slow slide and tumble, and you aren't producing anywhere near drop tower factor 2 forces. You of course need to apply situational awareness, not keep excess leash length, and not set yourself up to potentially have a giant drop onto the anchor.

Is a sling the "safest" option? Perhaps no. But it is quite convenient, compact, multiuse, and you don't need to buy and carry a special purpose dynamic tether. And provided a bit of caution and situational awareness it is plenty safe.

Ackley The Improved · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 0

A sling made of dynamic cord and tied with a double fisherman’s is multi purpose as a tether for raps etc and as a runner and can be left as rap tat. $.50 a foot is cheap.

http://www.yatesgear.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=375&product_id=700

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Fixed Hardware: Bolts & Anchors
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