Tether for setting up TR anchors
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What is the best way to secure yourself when setting up a TR anchor when you have top access to anchor bolts? If you approach two bolts from a walk-up and want to secure yourself while setting up the anchor and throwing down the rope, how do you best tether yourself to the bolts as you work? I see people (a) not tether in - which often makes me uncomfortable, (b) use a sling, which isn't a great idea in this situation - https://vimeo.com/27293337 (I know the criticism regarding this video, but still...) What do other people use? I was thinking a Beal Dynaloop girth hitched to harness and then clipped to bolts might be work Any other ideas? |
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Petzl Connect works pretty well for me. |
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Mitch Steiner wrote: Indeed I have the Dual for use when doing long series of raps which I have used for this. However it is pretty expensive and sort of bulky |
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0gWOiqPAZDw This video is worth watching and discusses most of the relevant ways to attach yourself to the rock. (Though I have a minor disagreement about why girth hitching direct to your belay loop can be dangerous.) |
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I have a loop of blue water dynamic 8 mil Prussic girth hitched to my harness I clip to a bolt. |
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Use the other end of the rope, plus an alpine draw. |
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Josh Rappoport wrote: Best way -- IMO is to have a second section of rope with a gri-gri so that you can rap to the bolts and keep yourself tethered above. If you are then going to rap down the setup top-rope, then you'll need an ATC to rap the double line. To answer the question you're asking about the best tether method for connecting to accessible from the top bolts -- then the *best* imo would be a Petal connect adjust. A key thing I typically do in this situation, is to pre-build my anchor (usually a quad in this case) and clip/tether into it prior to exposing myself to the edge. Then all you have to do is, carefully approach the edge, reach over/around etc, clip one side of the quad (so now you are connected to one bolt) and then the other (now just a few seconds later, you're on both bolts). This technique will work with any tether system you choose and will minimize the time you're in an exposed position. |
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Dissenting opinion: slings are good enough, in most situations. The main issue is that it is static, so if you took a factor 2 fall on it it produces higher forces. However, I don't think this is that big of a risk in this specific scenario. If you were to fall off while sitting in the cliff edge setting up an anchor, it's likely to be a slow slide and tumble, and you aren't producing anywhere near drop tower factor 2 forces. You of course need to apply situational awareness, not keep excess leash length, and not set yourself up to potentially have a giant drop onto the anchor. Is a sling the "safest" option? Perhaps no. But it is quite convenient, compact, multiuse, and you don't need to buy and carry a special purpose dynamic tether. And provided a bit of caution and situational awareness it is plenty safe. |
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A sling made of dynamic cord and tied with a double fisherman’s is multi purpose as a tether for raps etc and as a runner and can be left as rap tat. $.50 a foot is cheap. http://www.yatesgear.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=375&product_id=700 |