Toproping solo? Dynamic or static
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So I have been seeing lots of conflicting information regarding this. If I am doing single pitch solo top rope should I be using dynamic or static rope? Using the camp lift as main and petzl micro trax as sedondary |
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For me, any fall more than 12 inches on a static rope is uncomfortable. It is certainly posiible to have more slack than that in a TR scenario so I prefer a dynamic rope. |
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I have the same setup and prefer static rope. It seams to feed better and there is still a fair amount of stretch until your close to the anchor. I vaguely remember someone here saying the camp lift could potentially cut the rope around 5kn, so I'm pretty diligent about having zero slack in the system, I use a makeshift chest harness (bungie chord) and make sure there's adequate weight on the bottom of the rope. |
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You can use either. Both have their own special considerations. It's really just personal preference. |
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I prefer dynamic, but often I solo lead as well. |
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Having used both I prefer static, especially for a smoothly flowing setup like lift + microtrax. Easier to rap down after setting up the anchor. Also feels safer because the rope is not scraping itself over edges as it stretches (best to use some kind of rope protector whether static or dynamic). |
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https://www.maximropes.com/home/products/static_ropes/product_detail/product/km_iii/ 9.5 - 3/8" Has a bit of stretch. |
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I use an old dynamic rope, which at this point isn't very springy so I guess it is somewhere in-between... |
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Semistatic ropes exist too |
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Was going to say you shouldn't be using a full on static, you should be using semi static. I've got a 100m and find it almost annoyingly stretchy unless I'm 20-40 ft from the anchor. Also you should be plenty aware of the extra dangers of a stretchy rope over sharp rocks. |
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I've tried both and now only ever use dynamic rope. I climb hard when TRSing and dynamic rope forgives this. If I were stuck with a static rope, then I'd climb more statically and avoid traversing. When alone, I traverse all the time to get access to adjacent routes. You don't want to fall on static in this situation. On static I would also avoid dynos or very reachy deadpoints as slack can build up easily. With it a dynamic rope I also have to option to lead solo in cases where I need to self rescue myself or my gear or when something unplanned happens, or I need access the crag and it gets complicated. Short falls on static rope will give you spine a jolt (best case) and even a very minor injury can be a problem when you're alone, forgot your phone, don't have cell phone signal etc... Go with dynamic rope and protect it well with redirects. Old dynamic rope works very well. The terms "static" and "semi-static" are the same thing. Do not think that "semi-static" is something between dynamic and static. |
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I’ve used both dynamic and static ropes fairly extensively over the last 20 years of top rope soloing. If I’m coming in from the top or will be leaving the rope for any significant amount of time I will always use a static rope. It would have to be an edge case for me to even contemplate using a dynamic rope in this situation. My partners and I often follow multi pitch routes on a fixed line so I end up using a dynamic rope a fair bit as well. In this situation a dynamic rope works reasonably well as it is generally clipped through more directions which adds friction and reduces the overall stretch in rope. Generally not giving pitches repeated goes in this scenario so not as worried about sheath abrasion vs when setting a fixed line on a project where the rope might not change position for an extended amount of time or burns. I generally use a static rope with a higher amount of elongation. I prefer something with 4-5% elongation. I’ve probably taken thousands of falls on these ropes and can’t say I’ve ever had it come close to feeling like it hurt. I’ve also ended up using a lower elongation static that is around 1% stretch and that feels like a cable. I wouldn’t recommend a rope with this low of elongation unless there is a low likelihood of fall as that will probably hurt. They are really nice to jumar though! I’ve referred to static and semi-static ropes in the past. Though this isn’t a technical distinction I think this is a useful practical distinction. I guess maybe I found saying low-elongation static and high elongation static is a mouthful. I reduce that to static and semi-static. Regardless of what you call it, the elongation properties of the rope should something people pay attention to as it makes a big difference. The Sterling Safety pro is a great choice for a higher elongation static rope. Holds up extremely well and feeds nicely through devices. Easily the best rope I’ve used and I’ve tried most brands and numerous different models. |
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I prefer static, but usually use dynamic anyways. Static is proven to help your devices feed up the rope better. It also won’t stretch and damage itself as much if you fall. Dynamic ropes will rub onto the rock quite a bit more than a static line would. A static line would be more durable in the long run for TRS, but it would only have a specific purpose, whereas you can use a dynamic line for regular climbing as well
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Noel Z wrote: I'm not sure I agree with this. At the climbing gym I work for we use "semi-static" (low stretch) ropes for top-roping which is different than the "static" ropes we use for route setting and guiding. Technically all "static" ropes are "semi-static" but that's splitting hairs. When shopping for rope, "semi-static" can definitely refer to something between static and dynamic. In my experience, static ropes usually have less than 3% elongation. Semi-static has 3-10% elongation, and dynamic ropes have 21-40%. |
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If you decide against dynamic rope, then do take care to choose a static rope by its percentage elongation and not by whether it is termed "semi static" or "static". Those are just words. If you're the type of climber who can throw a heel up over your head and can pull onto that heel with ease and want to climb hard and dynamic then you will need at the very least double figure elongation (dynamism) because with the rope running across your body slack will build up at some stage. I agree with the other essentially that for rigging, access stuff and ascending static is very good where dynamic is just okay. Whatever you choose, you will shred any rope fast if you don't learn how and when to redirect. Static ropes where out fast too when loaded and saw back and forth horizontally across a sharp edge. I know Andy Kirkpatrick recommends static rope for TRS and so does Petzl. Both very good sources and the advice is sound and not wrong. Whatever you buy, if you TRS a lot you'll end up owning many ropes so don't worry too much. |
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I use an older dynamic climbing rope. Makes me feel a little better if I get any slack in the system to fall on it. I only own some stiffer static rigging ropes. Don’t have any issues with the dynamic rope running through a camp lift and microtraxion. If was buying a rope specifically for TR solo would probably do what Mikey suggests and do something with 4-5% elongation. |
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I use a static 90% of the time, but my current "TR solo rope" does have a fair amount of stretch. It's a BD brand I believe. Only time I prefer to bring a dynamic is if there's potential I'll want to lead solo, but otherwise I enjoy the lack of bounce and increased durability the static offers. Particularly if I am developing and/or might be jugging up the line. That's a nightmare on a stretchy rope. |
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Another consideration: a static rope is typically cheaper AND more durable |
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Sam Skovgaard wrote: Though the cheapest (free) option is an old dynamic rope that has gotten less stretchy and has been demoted to TR only. This is the main reason to use a dynamic rope - I already have several old dynamic ropes in the closet that I don't mind beating up on TR solo. I don't need to go out and buy yet another rope. I expect the situation is similar for many climbers. This is the "use whatever you already have" approach. That said, if I was going out and buying a new rope specifically for TR solo, I would go for a static or semi static for the reasons described above. |
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I too use dynamic. Also prefer retired lead ropes so less stretch. If you run a device like a grigri that requires constant slack to be pulled and you are TRing projects you will find yourself routinely taking falls that will be uncomfortable on static lines. |
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If the last backup in case other devices fail is a knot below the climber then surely the knot should be in dynamic rope as that will have to take a more severe fall? It would follow that in TRS systems using only one rope that should be dynamic. If two ropes are used the one with the primary device, involving a minimal fall unless it fails, might best be "static". |