Minimal Climbing Commands
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I often climb multipitch routes where my partner and I can move along whether we hear each other or not with no issues. However, in general I still use verbal commands but like to keep them to a minimum. Below is my list of primary commands, what are yours? CLIMB - informs climber that they are on belay and it is safe to climb Note I do not use ON BELAY because it is too much like OFF BELAY, same number of syllables too, I just yell CLIMB instead. |
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UP ROPE - take slack out of the system but not all the way. With most of my new partners, my command of UP ROPE is met with silence and then either an "What?" or "Uhhh..."-- and it leads to me being angry and barking at them. |
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At the base of a multi: Climbing -> Climb on On the climb: Take - take up all the rope ima hang dog all over this. Slack - give me more slack you’re pulling me off this balance crux. At the belay: Off Belay - remove the rope from the belay device Belay Off - the response to off belay
On Belay - this is done after pulling the rope up and three strong tugs to indicate that the belay is on. Usually with those three in combination you know you’re on belay. Climbing - 9/10 times this is not necessary and I omit. Usually the belayer begins pulling up the rope and the climber knows they are on belay. |
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STOP YELLING! IT'S NOT NECESSARY! TELL YOUR BELAYOR TO PAY OUT SLACK UNTIL IT'S GONE, THEN LET GO OF THE BELAY DEVICE AND JUST CLIMB! |
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I was taught to use my name, at least anytime there's traffic in the area. Much less chance to screw up "THAT'S TOPHER," imo... that said, this is obviously clarified with the next 2 commands. |
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Tradiban wrote: I agree with this, there is actually no need for verbal communication, although using some can reduce confusion and increase safety. |
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The often emotional Command-
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"That's ok buddy I've already done this climb!" was the answer from Wild Bill. |
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Usual commands over here in UK are pretty much then same. ON BELAY CLIMB WHEN READY : on belay you can climb, sometimes shortened to CLIMB WHEN READY, not exactly minimal. CLIMBING: response to above SAFE: when secure at stance/top and can be taken off belay, very often it is a lie also you will sometimes hear SAFE.........ISH when anchors are proper dodgy OFF BELAY: response to above, never heard belay off. TAKE/SLACK: despite the obvious issue this is pretty universal. THAT'S ME: Please stop pulling in the rope for the sake of my nuts. BELOW: When rock etc drops, I know logic would be above but I believe it is short for 'watch out below' ROPE BELOW: When dropping a rope. PUB: I have had enough let's call it a day and go beer. Biggest difference seems to be the SAFE/OFF BELAY instead of OFF BELAY/BELAY OFF, which I imagine could cause hiccups with vistors over the different meaning to OFF BELAY. |
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Rope tugs are a beautiful thing. |
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Cory N wrote: VERBAL COMMUNICATION CAN ALSO INCREASE CONFUSION AND DECREASE SAFETY. THE TRICK IS KNOWING WHEN TO USE IT AND WHEN NOT TO USE IT. IF THERE'S ANY CHANCE MY PARTNER WON'T BE ABLE TO HEAR ME I TELL THEM AT THE BELAY I WON'T BE YELLING AND TO JUST DROP THE BELAY DEVICE AND CLIMB WHEN THE SLACK RUNS OUT. |
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Topher Dabrowski wrote: This dangerous similarity can be largely resolved if only the belayer starts with the word “belay” meaning only the climber starts with “on” or “off” |
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Topher Dabrowski wrote: Pretty much it. If I am second and there is an excess amount of rope coiling around my feet I will yell UP ROPE. Of course, most of these commands are not heard if there is a river anywhere near, and the leader is more than 20 feet away. Tugs on the rope can sometimes substitute for CLIMB after you establish an anchor and a ready to belay up the second. |
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Tradiban wrote: Tradiban: Hemingway at the crag, Dickens on Mountain Project. |
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The American Alpine Club has an article on the topic: https://americanalpineclub.org/resources-blog/2017/1/19/4xm1fcsag6b7xqf1p1w1qp7vdpp1ha |
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Derek DeBruin wrote: <3, perfect share. Thank you! |
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Well we always used Avalanche On! and Avalanche OFFFFFFFFFFFFffffffffffffffffff.................... |
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Rope tugs upward from the belayer above makes sense, but not as a leader. Rope tugs from below, or as the lead climber makes no sense. Say there's a tricky move and you fall 3 times in a row fairly quickly... I guess you'd be off belay at the crux! |
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Christian Hesch wrote: That works well, unless your name sounds just like "Take" from a hundred feet up. One time Climbing with my wife early on she was following up a multipitch route and I could hear her yelling "Jake! Jake!" to which I kept replying, "What?" She was pretty mad when she got to the top and asked why I wouldn't "Take" |
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I was taught to say "I'm secure" when I'm ready to be taken off belay at the anchor. I like it because it differentiates from "Off/On belay" |
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Tradiban wrote: Tradiban, you know I'm always a fan. But you're breaking the first rule of the Internet here. |