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Edge Profile for Max Hangs

Original Post
Max Tepfer · · Bend, OR · Joined Oct 2007 · Points: 3,349

I just started a new cycle of max hangs and the profile of the edge I'm currently using is different from the one I used in my last cycle 8 months ago.  (currently on a 20mm Tension edge vs. the 20mm Lattice edge)  The profile of the Tension edge must be flatter/less sloping because I'm able to hang 30% more than I was previously on the Lattice.  Some of that may have been progression, but I doubt that it accounts for a significant amount.

My question is, which do you think will yield more gains?  More weight from an 'easier' 20mm edge or less weight from a 'harder' one?  One obvious answer to that question is specificity/which edge best mimics the hold type I'm planning on climbing on, but I'm more curious about physiological gains as opposed to gains applied to climbing. (ironically)

Brendan N · · Salt Lake City, Utah · Joined Oct 2006 · Points: 406

Physiological gains are only measurable when applied. (Unless you want to get a muscle cross section, ouch). You will get strong on the edge you train on, and that will present itself on the edge you test on.

Practically, there is a weight limit on your skin and shoulders. High weights tear skin and stress shoulders, especially with a sharper edge.
There is a lower edge limit as well, where conditions and pad elasticity play too big of a roll. 

James W · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2021 · Points: 0

Seems you’d want to rest a bit and try the Lattice edge again for comparison.  Maybe you actually got weaker.  I find mm’s matter a lot in these sizes and the edge round is going to effect that.  No idea which precise mm value is better than the next, other than training on a variety seems safest and most useful and does overall seem to increase specific benchmarks, such as the Lattice 20mm - ie, you don’t have to always hang on 20mm to get better at it. Not a fan of ocd same hold every time, constantly looking for microgains that may or may not translate to the rocks.

Derek DeBruin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2010 · Points: 1,094

Long term, go with the smaller edge that requires less added weight. Adding weight adds wear and tear and increases risk of injury, so get to where you can without it first. Then increase edge size and add weight and work back down to smaller edges.

Lena chita · · OH · Joined Mar 2011 · Points: 1,667

I find that Lattice edge is much harder, too, compared to Tension edge of the same nominal size.

As far as what edge to go with, I would pick depending on the situation. E.g. if you are hanging on one hold with 10 pounds added, and in the other hold with 60 pounds added, go with the harder (+10) edge, so you don’t need to lug about 60 lb of weights. But if you are hanging on one hold with +20, while in the other you have to subtract 20lb, go with the easier hold (+20) for max hangs, so you don’t need a pulley.   



Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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