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Best route per grade in the Exits

Original Post
Daniel Chode Rider · · Truck, Wenatchee · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 7,484

Interested to see what people think. I haven't climbed much past 12a and haven't done many of the classics but I've done enough to come up with a little list. 

#choss

#is

#classicandyouknowit

5.5 Perfect Harmony

5.6 Slumbersome Ridge kinda fun

5.7 probably Granito Bandito not many options

5.8 Tunnel of Love is goofy but enjoyable, Human Foot is probably better

5.9 Endless Bliss (NOT reptiles)

10a Iguanarama but I did like Lip Service. inb4 gross Old Milwaukee Rd

10b Radioactive Decay, haven't done a lot of others

10c Hurricane, sadly haven't done GitG or Goddess but they're probably better

10d hot take, Have You Told Your Husband Yet. Lots of good 10ds out there. 

11a Free Radical by a long shot (of the ones I've done). Also La Vida and Steep Street (lol)

11b Crescendo of the Sarcophagus Bleeding is v good I've heard, also the ww1 trio, don't know which is best

11c haven't done a lot but Third Stone from the Sun is great

11d, not many routes. Personal fav is the Magician Longs to See

12a... I like Cultureshock but haven't been on the other classics I.e. lay of the land, bust a move, rainy day, Stihl fingers

12b no idea... Goblet? Digitalis?

12c Propaganda? Techno?

12d i'm guessing Californicator

13a don't know

13b we all know it's Chronic, Flatliner, Pornstar, Dr Evil from here

Max Wallner · · Seattle, WA · Joined May 2020 · Points: 20

Nice list, a couple thoughts from me:

5.8: Insomniac was crazy fun and the position at the upper anchors was unique; I'd say it was my most memorable 5.8 in the region.

10a: sheltered upbringing was one of my first leads that had me giggling the whole time, good ratio of easy moves to sweet movement.

10c: I really liked son of jesus at world wall. stemming followed by some face climbing on weird pockets, very memorable.

10d: I thought science friction at shangri-la was awesome, but I may have been off-route a little bit and invented a cooler version.

11a: glad to see you mention la vida locomotive. that's my favorite 11a at the exits, long and huge variety of movement.

11b: negatherion at nevermind is almost as good as mega at ww1 in my opinion. Also violent phlegms at exit 32 is sweet.

Sergey Shelukhin · · Seattle, WA · Joined Mar 2014 · Points: 14

9 is Endless Bliss the slab? In that case Reptiles for sure :D

10a is the one you mentioned on Amazonia the one that's always wet? That one is pretty rad, even if wet because holds are so big

10d BLM-6 for sure, I think it's one of the best routes at the exits.

11c Bad Guy

12a I really like Lay of the Land, probably my favorite route at the exits, and not just because of the grade... where else can you find an arete like that.

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

My votes:

11d: Orgasmotron at WW2 is a clear winner. Maybe 12a though, in which case it's the best 12a

12a: Lay of the Land is awesome and is the best. I never thought Rainy Day to be anything special. Culture Shock is fun but short. Bust a Move isn't very good.

12b: A bit of a weak grade at 32; not sure. There are decent routes, but nothing amazing. Maybe one of these Shangri La routes wins?

--

13a: Both of the best routes are linkups: Californication and Vanilla Ice. Both are good: not sure which is better. I'd probably say Californiation as the best.

13b: Black Ice is the best IMO (better than Chronic). 

13c: Extended Illness gets my vote for best 13c (better than Flatliner) and is also the better Chronic finish. Other best 13c contenders are at WW2 - Black Plague and Eagle Scout - if we look just at the quality of climbing and ignore the chipped holds.

Princess Puppy Lovr · · Rent-n, WA · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 1,756

12b: Goes to skullduggery

12a: they are all pretty competitive, the only one I would recommend against is bust a move 

11c: Hidden Dragon or maybe 100% beef if it was cleaned and permad

11b: Crescendo of the Sarcophagus Bleeding 

10d: BLM 6

Classic non consensus grade goes to Ghost!!

Aaron Wait · · North Bend, WA · Joined Apr 2012 · Points: 2,042

12a - Rainy Day (better then lay of the land imo and most definitely culture shock)

12c - Hydryphobia ,, but maybe techno...

12d - Psychosematic 

JCM · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jun 2008 · Points: 115

Unpopular opinion: Flatliner isn't that good a 13c. The difficulty of the route cones entirely from one small hold. If the "credit card" hold was a  full-pad edge, the whole route would be 12d (and an amazing one at that). But as it is, Flatliner is a bunch of intro climbing and a bunch of resting (including sitting in a ledge) to get to one small hold. There are much better 13c sport routes at Little Si, and elsewhere in WA.

Daniel Chode Rider · · Truck, Wenatchee · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 7,484

Sergey Shelukin wrote: 

9 is Endless Bliss the slab? In that case Reptiles for sure :D

Reptiles is short, soft, boring, cramped position/belay area and drippy (when I was on it). Endless Bliss is long, cool exposure, consistently interesting, and fairly unique for the exits... If you don't like slab you'll probably hate it, but it's, like, easy slab, and my dislike for reptiles as 'the classic 5.9' is endless ;)

10a is the one you mentioned on Amazonia the one that's always wet? That one is pretty rad, even if wet because holds are so big

Wasn't wet yesterday, but damn it is fun.

12a I really like Lay of the Land, probably my favorite route at the exits, and not just because of the grade... where else can you find an arete like that

If you climb 5.13 in Index I think you can find an arete like that lol

JCM wrote:

Unpopular opinion: Flatliner isn't that good a 13c. The difficulty of the route cones entirely from one small hold. If the "credit card" hold was a  full-pad edge, the whole route would be 12d (and an amazing one at that). But as it is, Flatliner is a bunch of intro climbing and a bunch of resting (including sitting in a ledge) to get to one small hold. There are much better 13c sport routes at Little Si, and elsewhere in WA.

Probably why it's popular though.

Sounds like I need to get on BLM 6 dayum. And Big Mama... I've enjoyed all the 10ds I've been on, I think. Rad's routes seem underrated, perhaps?

IJMayer · · Guemes Island, WA · Joined Jan 2011 · Points: 350

12a I really like Lay of the Land, probably my favorite route at the exits, and not just because of the grade... where else can you find an arete like that.

thread drifting but if you're interested in aretes, biology of small appliances is a great 12a arete. the hard moves have permas go get it

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Pacific Northwest
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