You should probably carry a first aid kit

Most of us spend lots of time thinking about the strength ratings on gear, when to retire ropes, and the importance of wearing a helmet.  However, it amazes me how few climbers I know consider it worthwhile to carry a first aid kit, even on long alpine climbs.  

In my 12 years of climbing, I've seen broken bones, torn muscles, rockfall injuries, copious bleeding, throats closing from anaphylaxis, and more cuts, scrapes, sprains, and strains than I can count. Nearly every time, I've been the only person around with a first aid kit in my bag.

Climbing is a dangerous sport with potential for injury, even if you're just tossing down a bouldering pad with some homies. The extra few ounces won't kill your send, but they might save the life of your climbing partner. On a related note, wilderness first aid training also goes a long way!

Stay safe out there everyone.

I always have a roll of duct tape in my bag 

How serious of a kit do you carry? I always have a small, pre-made “day hike” med kit with me. Yes I know what is inside it, but it’s definitely just the essentials 

Andrew Bowman wrote:

I always have a roll of duct tape in my bag 

That way when your partner breaks their leg, you can tape up their mouth so you don't have to listen to their whining anymore?

What do you consider an adequate first aid kit? For climbs in the sierra I carry a bag of drugs (Imodium, ibuprofen, caffeine pills, electrolyte tabs), a roll of climbing tape, sos device, maybe an emergency blanket depending how committing the climb is. If you have a major injury like a broken back or major head trauma there's no way you're patching up and hobbling out and you're best off hitting the helicopter button and getting your partner off the wall to a sheltered position and keeping them warm. For minor injuries like a broken/sprained ankle or cuts, the combination of climbing tape, a chunk ripped off my sun hoody for bleeding, and trekking poles for splints seems good enough and you're likely to be carrying all that for other uses as well.

Doug Simpson wrote:

How serious of a kit do you carry? I always have a small, pre-made “day hike” med kit with me. Yes I know what is inside it, but it’s definitely just the essentials 

My kit:

-Bandages of different sizes and shapes

-Gauze

-Ace wrap

-Alcohol wipes

-Antibiotic cream

-Needle and thread

-Climbing tape

-Electrolyte tablets

-Water purifier tablets

-Meds: Benadryl, ibuprofen, cyclobenzaprine (muscle relaxant), painkillers, caffeine, Azo (for UTIs)

------------

Seems like a lot, but I've used nearly all of these in the field at some point in time and in total it only weighs about 3 ounces.  Slings, tourniquets, and splints can be made from materials at hand so I don't carry dedicated versions.  I've been meaning to add in some Quick Clot but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I'll sometimes throw in an emergency blanket and Inreach device for longer climbs, and I also typically carry a headlamp, knife, and lighter in addition to the above items.

Mark Straub wrote:

My kit:

-Bandages of different sizes and shapes

-Gauze

-Ace wrap

-Alcohol wipes

-Antibiotic cream

-Needle and thread

-Climbing tape

-Electrolyte tablets

-Water purifier tablets

-Meds: Benadryl, ibuprofen, cyclobenzaprine (muscle relaxant), painkillers, caffeine, Azo (for UTIs)

------------

Seems like a lot, but I've used nearly all of these in the field at some point in time and in total it only weighs about 3 ounces.  Slings, tourniquets, and splints can be made from materials at hand so I don't carry dedicated versions.  I've been meaning to add in some Quick Clot but haven't gotten around to it yet.

I'll sometimes throw in an emergency blanket and Inreach device for longer climbs, and I also typically carry a headlamp, knife, and lighter in addition to the above items.

Nice, I've got the same stuff in my kit. I should throw my aqua pure tablets in there too. No matter the weather conditions, time of day, duration of event - I ALWAYS carry the medkit, lightweight rain jacket, headlamp, small multi-tool, food, water, and a poop kit. Can't forget the poop kit. 

This is a good discussion ill add my input. I'm trained as a wilderness emt by NOLS and work as a medic for wildland firefighting. My main input is that a first aid kit is useless without skills and skills are useless without a kit. 

My kit for climbing is tailored to the injuries that I think are likely. Off the top of my head I think I have a big ABD pad and some gauze for bleed control, and a SAM splint and ace bandage for orthopedic injuries (the ace can also be used for pressure dressing). I also carry a roll of tape for gobis and minor stuff.

My thinking behind carying this kit is that in any sort of serious accident, you will likely need to stabilize the patient and self rescue. This simple kit provides the tools to keep your partner alive until sar arrives. 

I think out of the other kits I see here, I would recommend adding a sam splint. Although it is bulky, they are light. It seems like ankle/foot/leg fractures and injuries are a very common climbing injury. Being able to be able to properly immobilize these injuries will make your partner a lot happier if you have to self rescue (I've seen someone go from screaming to having a conversation after having a broken ankle splinted). Additionally, if you are moving someone with leg fractures it is essential you splint the fractures or the broken bones grinding around can cause massive internal bleeding that can easily kill you.

Go get trained and get a kit. You might save someone's life.

This is where some formal wilderness medicine training really helps.  You get to practice with a variety of tools and at the end you generally know what you will use, and what you can improvise.  For me, it's a different kit just about every trip depending on risks, distance, partners, etc.  

The only things that always come with me are gloves and trauma shears.  Next most important thing is extra clothes (you can hit the button... but it's gonna be a while).  After that, Mark's list is good.  Quick clot is a disaster though... it is of little function in the back country and you're just as likely to seal your own eyes shut as you are to save a life in the very limited circumstance that pressure can't help. My "luxury" item is a sam splint. I just find it handy.  I like coban over elastic bandage.  But now it's just stuff you like or don't like.

Trevor has a good story for everyone.

Nathan Williams wrote:

and a SAM splint and ace bandage for orthopedic injuries...

Thanks for the input...I want to get one of those. What size would you recommend carrying?

Mark Straub wrote:

That way when your partner breaks their leg, you can tape up their mouth so you don't have to listen to their whining anymore?

Hahaha exactly ;)

Your list sounds great. I haven’t done much alpine stuff but I should definitely have those for any backcountry trips. 

David Burridge wrote:

Thanks for the input...I want to get one of those. What size would you recommend carrying?

Hmm I think its the 36 inch. Whichever is the "standard" size. Forgot to mention in my original post but another reason the sam is critical is because you can make a c collar in case of head trauma 

Mark Straub wrote:

-Needle and thread

-Electrolyte tablets

Curious about these two. The tablets I assume are for dehydration recovery? Needle and thread is for repairing gear and not emergency surgery/stitches?

Nathan Williams wrote:

big ABD pad and some gauze for bleed control, and a SAM splint 

Didn't know about either of these before, thanks. 

Anybody who does not include safety pins,.. has not taken an AMGA medical course for guides.

You can even use them to replace lost/broken glasses if you know how.

Ron O wrote:

Anybody who does not include safety pins,.. has not taken an AMGA medical course for guides.

do you mean WFR/WEMT? as far as i know, the AMGA does not directly instruct medical training...

Tourniquet, cold pack, snake bite kit, splints, 1st aid including burn cream, foil space blanket, waterproof matches, couple of biners and cordollette.  My kids laugh about it but someday they won't.

Mark Straub wrote:

My kit:

-Bandages of different sizes and shapes

-Gauze

-Ace wrap

-Alcohol wipes

-Antibiotic cream

-Needle and thread

-Climbing tape

-Electrolyte tablets

-Water purifier tablets

-Meds: Benadryl, ibuprofen, cyclobenzaprine (muscle relaxant), painkillers, caffeine, Azo (for 

You made a smart ass comment above about a broken leg.

I'm retarded, so please explain to me in excruciating detail how you help someone with a broken leg with these "ingredients", other then ODing them on painkillers?

5SevenKevin Morris wrote:

You made a smart ass comment above about a broken leg.

I'm retarded, so please explain to me in excruciating detail how you help someone with a broken leg with these "ingredients", other then ODing them on painkillers?

Not the original quote, but you expose the injury, take care of bleeding (if any), find a stick/backpack stay/trekking pole and their (always the patient’s) extra clothes and wrap it up with the elastic bandage to immobilize. If they ask for painkillers ask the right questions and keep them as comfy as possible.

Seriously folks… just take a damn WFA/WFR if you’re out there. 

Cams + Tape = Splint

I probably carry the heaviest emergency medkit of anyone I know, but the quality just isn't there on those new ultralight .38 specials