|
|
Tim Stich
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,516
If any of you know about Colorado Springs, the locals were always possessive of their marginal granite crags on Pikes Peak. Oh, they would brag about how awesome they are, but no, you can't have a topo of that route I described for an hour over beers. Now that I am a local myself, having lived her over 13 years, I can say that it is with pleasure that another local created a comprehensive climbing guide to Pikes Peak. This is due out within a month.
 How awesome is that? I might climb some of the routes, but frankly the toll road fees are too much to make it a regular crag. Plus, I have my own secret areas now elsewhere. But it's been a long time coming. Oh, but wait! This has gotten under the skin of two guys that don't want anyone climbing on Pikes, much less putting in new routes.
Enter Bossy and Brad, two self-appointed stewards of Pikes Peak.
I'll let guide book author and former school teacher and mountain guide Phil Wortmann tell the story:
"I’ve tried to keep this on the low for the last year, however I feel this behavior has to be made public. The Springs community has long been a somewhat secretive and exclusive club, and a few have pushed that localism to the extreme. This is one reason I felt the need to write a book in the first place. No one should have to cower to someone’s ego in order for them to share the sandbox. Last year, Brad Seran and Bo Parsons threatened to chop all of my routes on Pikes Peak if I published my book, and they’ve been busy acting on those threats. At least a dozen routes of mine have been destroyed, to include the pins and anchors of Samsara, a line that took me five seasons to envision and send (and even included historical pitons from several generations of Springs climbers) They destroyed routes where I used a pin to avoid drilling a bolt, sawed off bolts I placed on lead at great danger to myself, and removed rappel anchors that are essential to avoid injury or death. They lack the courage or ability to climb any of them. I have offered to work with them. They have not touched routes that were bolted on the Peak by people they like, only mine.Yesterday, I found them on the PP Hwy gearing up for more destruction. I asked them why they were doing this, Brad told me- because when they got climbing banned on Pikes the community would blame ME for it… I have spent a small fortune in beers over the years sitting with them trying to make sense of Their logic, but talking climbing with them is like talking religion with the taliban. Any disagreement makes you a non-believer and an outsider. In one meeting, Brad told me “it will be a real shame if someone buys your little book and goes out to find your route isn’t there.”
After I took this photo they proceeded to the Samsara area, where Noah Mckelvin was busy climbing. They harassed him for over an hour while they destroyed. Brad attempted to toprope Friction Loss, a hard route Noah put up last year, and flailed embarrassingly at the crux. He then hung and chopped the pins and single bolt so Noah had to watch. In the end, Narcissists are incapable of being happy for the accomplishments of others. In fact, it threatens their feelings of self importance. Destruction is a power-move made by very small men. They claim to be preserving the area, though they litter the crags with sawed off hardware. They tap in the bolts so that the holes can never be reused.I invite you to reach out to these two and listen to their non-sequitors, hypocritical ethics, and circular logic. Then, ask them if they live by what they preach. Do they hold their friends to these same ethics? Will they chop the routes of their mentors that offended their indecipherable “ethic” of total purity? They will undoubtedly continue to spread falsehoods about the quality and style of my routes. But, this is purely a personal vandetta with no true regard for principle.Brad has a long history of harassment in the community that I’ve heard of for years. A few months ago I even decided to cancel my membership at the local gym (which he is also a member) due to his continued erratic behavior there.They stated unequivocally they would chop the routes again if I replaced them, so this will require community involvement. I’ve never known grown men who acted so childish. This community deserves better than to be pushed by a couple bullies who destroy without concern for the community. We can make this a better place together.EDIT: I’ve decide to post their names here since they are so very proud of their work. Also, thank you for the support but let’s keep it positive. I deleted a few posts that involved some threatening language"Here is a photo of Bossy and Brad from the day Phil ran into them in the act.
Evidence of the chopping afterwards So if you know either of these swell dudes, please make sure to thank them for their service as they are such brave guys.
|
|
|
Tal M
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Denver, CO
· Joined Dec 2018
· Points: 3,911
Looks like Bo is still a regular visitor/contributor to MP, so we may have the benefit of his contribution that WERTH deprived us of. So Bosier, whatcha got?
|
|
|
aikibujin
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Castle Rock, CO
· Joined Oct 2014
· Points: 300
Those two are despicable.
|
|
|
T D
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Splatte
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 3,904
Wow, another couple of shitstains on the climbing community. Disappointing to say the least, and I wouldn't be surprised if these guys were the same people out damaging new routes in the Platte. Ironically Bosier seems to be rebolting a route at Turkey Rock. Bossy and Brad, what makes you think that bolted routes at Turkey Rock are ok but bolts on a climb at Pike's Peak aren't? Is there some old school thing you are trying to uphold? Because it is especially ironic you were caught out chopping bolts clutching your shiny new Ultralight C4s, instead of rigid-stem friends and hexes... This sport will continue to push forward, whether your sorry ass likes it or not. New bolts will appear next to the one that you chopped, and your legacy will be permanently stuck into that rock as that of someone with a broken ego and no honor. Oh and I'm pretty sure you can get charged with manslaughter if someone does get hurt because you chopped an anchor or a bolt with intent to harm (“it will be a real shame if someone buys your little book and goes out to find your route isn’t there.”)... So keep that in mind.
|
|
|
christoph benells
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
tahoma
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 306
They look like some rad Coloradans... Colorado is so cool These dudes are definitely locals
|
|
|
Beth C
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 5
May the stardrives of 1000 South Platte routes infest their pissholes.
|
|
|
Fehim Hasecic
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Boulder, CO
· Joined Jun 2013
· Points: 215
Hey Tim, is there a link to pre-order the guidebook?
|
|
|
Beth C
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Colorado Springs, CO
· Joined Nov 2014
· Points: 5
Yeah post up that link. I want to give Mr. Wortmann my money, even if I'm a 5.fun old lady with joint disease and will never climb up there.
|
|
|
Dustin B
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Steamboat
· Joined Jan 2006
· Points: 1,281
Dear Bo and Brad, I'm not local to the area and don't know or really care what your beef is, however, You suck at chopping, if the above photos are typical of your work that's some half-assed shit. If your going to try to make a statement that bolts don't belong or are 'vandalism', then do it right and don't leave behind studs, sleeves, holes etc. Carry on.
|
|
|
Terry E
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
San Francisco, CA
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 43
|
|
|
T D
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Splatte
· Joined Feb 2014
· Points: 3,904
Terry E
wrote:
Is Bo short for Bozo? Holy hell man we were trying to get these guys to stop chopping bolts, not flat out murder them!
|
|
|
Terry E
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
San Francisco, CA
· Joined Aug 2011
· Points: 43
T D
wrote:
Holy hell man we were trying to get these guys to stop chopping bolts, not flat out murder them! Murder? All I’m saying is their behavior and destruction sounds rather sutpid.
|
|
|
La MoMoface
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Arvada, CO
· Joined Apr 2008
· Points: 60
These fellas seem one missed haircut away from being a Shawn Snyder of the Rockies.
|
|
|
Tim Stich
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Colorado Springs, Colorado
· Joined Jan 2001
· Points: 1,516
|
|
|
M M
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Maine
· Joined Oct 2020
· Points: 2
|
|
|
Kevinmurray
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2012
· Points: 0
|
|
|
slim
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Dec 2004
· Points: 1,103
Kevinmurray
wrote:
Pull 'em all. says another nobody who hasn't ever climbed anything... lolz...
|
|
|
Lauren Fallsoffrocks
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
A beach with climbing
· Joined Mar 2006
· Points: 333
Chapter 2: why the Forest Service implemented a climbing ban for all of Pike National Forest
|
|
|
George Bracksieck
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Unknown Hometown
· Joined Oct 2008
· Points: 3,693
Bought guidebook! It’s scheduled to arrive late August or so.
|
|
|
John Tex
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Estes
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 0
As a local for a few years now, I am curious, do these guys climb at CityRock? I am purchasing the guidebook as well. It's nice as someone who has lived here for years but has partners elsewhere to finally find beta for these climbs I've been hearing about. I work a full time job unlike a lot of these climbers who preach exploration and old-school ethics. I work for a living so I don't have the ability to spend my precious free time roaming around looking for potential climbs hoping I find a halfway decent line. Take my money Phil. Your work is much appreciated.
|
|
|
John Tex
·
Jul 31, 2021
·
Estes
· Joined Mar 2013
· Points: 0
Kevin Murray wrote: pull em all slim
wrote:
says another nobody who hasn't ever climbed anything... lolz...
|
Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
