Another low-volume-heel-but-otherwise-normal-climbing-shoe question: recommend me a shoe?

I have searched but I can't quite find the answer I am looking for.  Some info: love the scarpa instincts and la sportiva katana and testerossa (Not messing with fiveten anymore, but used to be a big fan of theirs).  All these shoes fit me great in the toe box, but I have never found a shoe that fits in the heel.  I've tried the womens version of the muira and some fivetens, but the toe boxes tend to be too narrow.  I would say I have somewhat low volume feet (have to strap the shoes way down/laces are always super long when tying), but perhaps just wider in the toe box.  I need a new pair of somewhat aggressive shoes for steep sport climbing, similar to the instincts.  Any suggestions for me?

Thanks in advance.

I cannot wear LS and Scarpa due the heels, but I have found success with Evolv, particularly the Phantom. 

Like you, I fit fine into the Scarpa Instincts but find the heel a bit floaty..

Some shoes I have tried since: 

La Sportiva Theory - my all around favorite, fits like an absolute glove up front, heel is quite a bit smaller than the instincts. My only gripe is the rubber on the heel is really really soft and doesn't seem to be the same compound as the rest of the rubber on the shoe. Woman's version is even lower volume all around. 

Mad Rock Drone - smallest heel of any shoe I have tried, front is a bit narrow for me but otherwise if you really need a tight heel while having an aggressive shoe, give em a try.

I have a very similar problem and have given up on LS shoes pretty much all together. Butora shoes fit me super well. I’ve bought a few of their  less aggressive shoes. UnParallel is also very nice and might fit the Bill for you

I recently tried on the new La Sportiva Kubos and was suprised at how low volume the heel was. It was very shallow (not especially narrow) but could be a good option if that’s what you are looking for. The toe box on these is somewhat similar to Katanas/Otakis

I was wearing men’s LS Skwamas for a long time because the toe box fit my wide forefoot very well, but there was still space in the heel. I tried the women’s Skwama this season and was surprised with how well they fit. The toe box is only slightly narrower- there was a more pronounced break in period than the men’s, but they stretched enough laterally to feel the same. The heel on the women’s is cut lower and shallower and eliminated the air pocket.
I also have a pair of Phantoms that I climb in occasionally. They fit well, especially the heel, but there are other things I don’t like about the shoe that leads me to prefer the women’s Skwama. 

Women's scarpa vapor lace. The newer cotton candy ones with the blunter toe box has worked well for me with similar past shoe experiences

Try the Tenaya Tarifa or Oasi

Women's instincts did it for me, same toe box and a slightly smaller heel

Highly recommend trying the women’s Skwama. I size down to a 39 from a 42 street shoe 

Update to my previous reply. I just scooped a pair of women’s Mad Rock Lotus’s and they are fantastic. I wear a 10.5 street shoe and got them in size 12 

Mad Rock drones have a small volume heel and a fairly wide toebox. Super comfortable as well and I love the rubber. 

Have you tried the women’s scarps instincts?

My feet are similar, and I recommend high-tops, since a close heel fit matters less with them. You can lock in the heel even if it doesn't fill the volume. Butora Altura Wide or Five Ten Grandstone would be my recommendations.

Just wanted to update everyone that is interested: I ended up going with the women's instincts.  The shoes fit my foot better overall than the mens, but the heel still has some dead space.  they make a little farting noise when I walk around.  I tried them out a bit on the wall, and they dont feel like they will come off on hard hooks like the mens version does for me.  but still, not quite the solution I was hoping for.  Will keep looking.  Thanks for yalls help so far!

Another update.  Tried out the UP regulus... yall are crazy. they are baggier than the hiangles

also tried out the women's skwama.  Heels are still way baggy, much worse than the women's instincts.  The search continues!

What sizing are you using for these? I find that often getting a leather shoe and downsizing a bunch helps. I stretch the forefoot but the heel stays more or less the same. The fart noise only really happens if i have an all day comfort shoe. 

Have you tried men's muira vs? I find both men's and women's muira vs fit my heels great, only shoes that do. 

JD Borgeson wrote:

Another update.  Tried out the UP regulus... yall are crazy. they are baggier than the hiangles

also tried out the women's skwama.  Heels are still way baggy, much worse than the women's instincts.  The search continues!

Drago LV

@brad the skwama fit great in the front, just not in the heel at all.  I'm looking for a sport climbing shoe, so I can't really stand the crazy downsizing for this purpose.  can't take them off midroute

@jaxon I have tried women's muiras and they were just too narrow.  I reckon I could try out the mens, though I am looking for something a bit more aggressive since most of what i climb is very steep sport.

@shushu i was considering those, but don't know much about them.  what's the difference between these and the instincts? instincts more of an all arounder?

That's definitely fair. I found the womens skwamas to be full on bouldering only shoes at first but I'd guess they stretched a full size in the toe box to wear they are "comfy" for a few pitches. 

*Disclosure, i am one of those people that used to downsize laspo 4-5 sizes from my brannock measurement so comfort is always relative