Maiden Rock/Surrounding Areas

Hi everyone!  Have been trying to get my hands on the Maiden Rock pdf and other climbing information in the area.  Not having a lot of success as I don't know a ton of climbers yet.  If you have this information please reach out.  Also, spending a lot of time in the Bozeman area and would appreciate any pdf's on that area as well.  I am looking to climb on the weekends mostly and want to familiarize myself with the local spots.  Thanks so much!

-Sara

So update:  No pdf's yet.  Is there just not one?  We have tried to navigate Maiden twice.  Both visits we met very nice folks who said they believe there is a PDF but did not have it.  Shouldn't this area be on Mountain Project?  This is public land and has obvious development.  Could somebody please send me the PDF so I can climb 5.10s and not wonder what I am trying to climb?  Thanks!

Hi Sara - 

I would be cautious with the approach that “it’s public land, with obvious development, shouldn’t it be on Mountain Project?”. This attitude would personally make me hesitant to share a guidebook, assuming one exists, for fear that it would simply be copied onto this platform. If the developers wanted it on MP, my guess is that it would be here, and there’s likely a reason it’s not. I’m sure folks will point you in the right direction when you’re down there!

Damien 

Hey all!  All I want is some written information on what the routes are and what they are rated so I can get on my grade and not have to leave a bunch of gear behind.  Not trying to have this thread go down a rabbit hole of abuse and opinions as others do.  I was told about this area from another climber in Colorado who said she had a super fun time.  As I said I have been out there a couple of times and not been able to navigate.  Maybe this area is in another guidebook?  I have looked on The Crag and there are only a couple of routes listed in the area.  If you could point me in the right direction that would be great!

I think your running into some local idiosyncrasies regarding publishing ethics in Montana. To put this in perspective for much of the states history, crags were word of mouth (with some significant exceptions). This can be because communities are tight knit and there is little reason to publish if you know the only folks who climb in the area (guide books are quite a bit of work), the developer wants to enforce a "pure" experience on other climbers, access is sensitive, or that the developers enjoy having a crag that is uncrowded and off peoples radar. While the latter reasons can be seen as gate keeping, they can also alleviate many access issues that come with increased use. I think its important to keep in mind that our communities are pretty small, even in college towns like Missoula and Bozeman the core group of climbers numbers at most in the low hundreds and most folks know each other and share beta pretty freely. Since the 90's many of the state's areas have found their way into guide books and other print resources, but not all of them and some developers continue to adhere to that no-publish ethic. For example the Humbugs (across the freeway from Maiden) have many routes, but only the Wedge has made it into guides. I haven't made it down to Maiden, but at risk of speaking for the folks who put the time, effort, and money into developing the area, it seems like they want to continue the beta sheet/ word of mouth thing for this crag. In my experience developer interest and tolerance for adding routes to MP varies significantly, but it is probably best to let them take the lead or touch base with them first to see what their position is. 

Not sure where you are based out of, but the most productive way to get beta would be to try to connect with folks climbing there. If you can't get that figured out Indian Creek, Hellgate and Avalanche Gulches are near by, have some excellent limestone climbing, are in a few guidebooks, and have much more to offer in the 5.10 range. There is some beta on MP for them, but there are many routes that have not been added. I think this is because most folks who climb there have the book and don't use or need MP rather than the areas being hush-hush. The Big Empty by Ron Brunkhorst may be out of print but is still available at some local gear shops and has quite a bit of the state's limestone documented. An updated guidebook for those and some other central Montana crags should be out sometime in the next year. Stone Tree in Helena has an updated beta sheet for Winter Wall in Hellgate and is also a good place to get beta on other areas if your up this way. 

I get that the local/ no-publish thing can be frustrating, but fortunately there are lifetimes worth of routes in the state and many have beta available for them. If your passing through and want to check out some of our rock these are the best option. If you do live here, it may take some time but climb in the local areas long enough and you will connect with some other folks that can show you around to some of the more obscure spots. LCO trail days or other crag TLC events are great for making connections too. 

Not everything needs to be on Mountain Project and not everything will go on Mountain Projects. (or The Crag)   

Also, there are no 5.10s at the Maiden...well there are a few...but not enough to go there if that is what you are trying to climb. 

I have some history for the climbing around the Butte area. But things aren't posted here on Mountain Project.
Text me at 406 560 6073 and we can talk

I posted some beta on Montana climbing awhile back.  Got a message that said:

3-7-77

Anyone knows what that means?

(ha ha).

We're a funny bunch.  I appreciate the differences in approach for areas...Montana being unique in that regard.

Maiden Rock area has some "interesting" landowners (or squatters!) nearby...take care out there.