Business recently brought me into the Schoharie Valley in New York. My eye was caught by a short but relatively long cliff band I asked my friends from the area about it “Vroman’s Nose”. They did not know if people climb it. Does anyone know if there are climbs on those cliffs? If not why, is the rock quality shit or is there some other reason? Thanks for any information.
It's limestone and/or shale. While there is climbable limestone in places (like Thatcher), much of the exposed limestone in Upstate isn't of good enough quality. Shale is obviously not climbable at all.
There's also the matter of access, since it's land managed by the DEC or a private entity. Most limestone needs bolts for protection, so the regulating bodies would need to be involved and approval for 'defacing' the rock would need to be granted. You see where I'm going here.
The site is of some historical significance so even if the stars were to align regarding whether the rock *could* be climbed, the likelihood of authorization to climb would be dead upon arrival. I found a decent wall (schist or gneiss) on a preserve in eastern NY, and for the reasons above didn't bother pursuing it since the club that owned the land would have zero to gain letting climbers use it, and only risk litigation/liability if they did.