Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Sea Cliff Top Rope Solo. Rappelling and rope fixing advice?
|
I will be in Ireland on an upcoming holiday and plan on doing some sea cliff solos. I TRS a lot and also LRS from time to time. I have only soloed at dry crags simply fixing a rope, throw down the rest, rappel down, fix a weight and solo back up. At a sea cliff, there is the sea or at least rock-pools at the bottom. Does anyone have a suggestion on how I might do TRS on a sea cliff? Is ther a go-to-method? |
|
The best solution is going to depend on your TRS set-up. If, for example, you're using a Grigri (you're either OK with pulling the rope through after each move, or you have figured out how to get it to self feed), then you're all set. Rap down a single strand with the Grigri and blast right back up. I am sure there are other less popular/newer devices that can rap and self feed for TRS, but you'll have to research them yourself. If OTOH hand you use two ropes and/or two devices, then as you realize there's going to be a bit of faffing around at the bottom to get into climbing mode. Practice this before you get to Ireland and you should be fine. |
|
I use a Taz Lov2 to solo on. Always on a single rope. That device allows for rappelling and self-fed ascending. |
|
Although this was written for lead climbing with a partner, I think there's some useful information here for you. Go to www.climbcaymanbrac.com and scroll down until you find "ADVENTURE CLIMBING AT THE POINT". Sea cliff conditions will likely be different in Ireland than the Caribbean, but some things will be the same. For example: "The first person to rappel takes the quickdraws and lead rope in a bag; a bucket-type rope bag is best. As this person descends, they must clip the rap line into enough of the bolts to stay in contact with the cliff! If they don’t they may find themselves hanging 10′ from the wall and 30′ above the water. (Shit, time to get out the ascenders!)" You are correct about taking your rope down in an open bag. You want to keep it out of the sea AND out of the wind. Both will definitely snag your rope and make it impossible to pull up when you're done. The wind can be going straight up the wall, and is strong enough to lift a good deal of rope and then deposit it somewhere out of reach. Or it's blowing sideways and will wrap your rope around some feature 10m to the side... YMMV. |
|
Some good answers and links here! Thanks guys. |
|
These bags work reasonably well for this type of application. |
|
Get a tide chart for the location. |
Idaho Bob wrote: This is a good idea. That general area can see some of the largest tide swings anywhere. Very, very different from the Med. |
|
I will check the tides. Ireland is very tidal. Anchors? Yes, that may be the main challenge. I build trad anchors often and feel competent at this, but if there's nothing there but grass and cow poop?... If I'm unsure, then I won't climb. I'll bring along slings, old recently re-slung hexes, nuts, Tricams and cams, so I will have enough protection options. I'm hoping that the guides books will offer some advice once I received and read the ones I have ordered. I have seen the word "shackles" in some online guides. Just how these shackles are fixed, I don't know yet. Maybe with huge ground spikes/pegs? Today I was wondering if I would be willing to anchor off my rental car parked perpendicular to the cliff with (handbrake and gear engaged). Am I gonna die? |
Noel Z wrote: BIG SMILE at this ! I can almost hear the comments in the pub afterwards, "Ya wount believe it. Some crazy American.... " |
|
done that off a jeep for ice climbing. that spot is closed now and part of a power station... |
|
Let go of the rack should you end in the sea. |
John Byrnes wrote: If I end having to car-anchor it, then I hope the contents of the car are still there on my return as I can't think of a way to build a car-anchor without leaving the doors open to run the rope through, around and under it. Or, what if some farmer thinks my rope, slings and carabiners are booty for tying up a bull or something! Oh dear, things we do to get a few pitch somewhere new. @Latro: Thanks kindly for the sound advice about information Jim Titt posted about using stakes as anchors. See here: |
Noel Z wrote: Maybe using a car as an anchor isn’t for you if you can’t figure out how to do so without leaving the doors open and going through, around and under it. |
Barry M wrote: I know, but my custom built 1977 James Bond submarine car has just so few attachment options with the doors closed, I don't know what else to do! |
Noel Z wrote: I've seen some UK sea cliff climbing videos where the top anchors are metal posts driven into the ground. I'm not sure how deep they need to be driven or what kind of stakes they were using, but I would definitely whip on two of these T-shaped metal posts:  |
Noel Z wrote: Check out Alcatraz Canyon in Robbers Roost Utah. The canyon begins with a rappel off the car. No need to park perpindicular. Engage the parking brake and leave it in gear. Chock the wheels, sling a solid part of the car around the frame (around a wheel too if it makes you feel better), Then have some fun. your car isn't going to move if it's left correctly. |
Sam Skovgaard wrote: Jim Titt is on your case: http://www.bolt-products.com/Glue-inBoltDesign.htm Scroll down to Stakes. What parts of Ireland are you thinking of? On the majority of British Isles' sea cliffs there are boulders or small outcrops that enable a natural belay to be built. A small trad. rack would be adequate. If this is not possible the stake(s) is usually in situ unless you are very off-piste. It would be an impressive feat to drive a rental car to the top of most sea cliffs, do post pictures if you succeed! Second or third the recommendation for a caver's tackle bag or similar to keep the rope tidy. I know of several instances where the end of the abseil rope ended in the sea, got snagged under water, and had to be chopped short. |
|
I will be going to Donegal, a county in the north west of Ireland for six days of climbing. There is a guide book for the area which is then combined with online guides. I don't have the guidebook yet, but here are two example of the online suppliments: https://uniqueascent.ie/site/uploads/Donegal%20Guide/Glencolmcille/Glencolmcille%20Guidebook.pdf I don't think I will get a rental car in there, but with a full trad. rack and plenty of rope, I should be fine. On some routes there seems to only be grass all the way to the ledge, so I hope there will be stakes. I think anchor building may be my main activity on this holiday. It looks like it'll be worth it. I think the idea of carrying the slack rope during rappels in a cavers' tackle bag will be my go-to-method. I have a small Ikea bag with its mouth stiffed with a hose pipe I use for this sort of thing already. I always have the option to saddle-bag if that turns out to me more suitable. Coiling ever decreasing saddle-bag coils is very time consuming. If I do need to car-anchor it, then I have some pointers here: I think would anchor off the two axels and equalise. With the rope running over the edge and short TR falls, I feel sure even a small car would hold my weight easily. The for the BMC video about stakes. I like the bit where he mentions that any corrosion won't be visible as it'll be under the ground. |
|
The "good" stakes are scaffold pipe 3ft in the ground or what evers to hand. For temporary anchors two pieces of aluminium angle in series and 18" deep. One of my customers uses a DMM Talon which is made for exactly this job. Another approach especially if the earth is very shallow is to cut a semi-circular trench in the turf with a nut tool and bury a length of hose with the rope threaded through. Cars are fine, park sideways and tie to part of the suspension, it won't break. |
duncan... wrote: |
