Climbing with cast for partial ulnar collateral ligament tear (skier's thumb)

Hi everyone,

About a month ago I noticed pain in the joint between my thumb and forefinger. I don't remember specifically hurting it but it was probably moving rocks in the garden... anyway, I went to a physician who diagnosed a partial tear of the UCL, known as skier's thumb (although a lot of the time it is fully ruptured in skier's thumb and requires surgery). I am also seeing a physical therapist who specializes in hands. They made me a hard cast (see photo). The cast prevents me from opening my thumb and doing large pinches.

Has anyone experienced something similar and kept climbing with a cast? The PT said I can do pretty much anything that I am able to with the cast on, but I am still worried that using the other fingers may hinder recovery. I have climbed with it and was able to climb easier routes and didn't have any pain at all, just had to avoid routes with pinches and it was generally annoying... however, it doesn't seem to be improving. I have stopped climbing but as you all know this is hard and I would love to get back on the wall, even if it is just easier routes.

Hi Emma!

I had a complete rupture of my left UCL in October 2019. I also had damage to the joint capsule.  I had surgery and currently have 75% of what I once had as far as strength, mobility, and agility in my thumb.  I was in a soft cast for 2 weeks post surgery, a hard cast for 8 weeks, then a soft cast for 4 weeks followed by a splint/brace for 4 weeks and then tons of PT.  At 4 weeks in my hard cast I got cleared to do similar to you and I climbed some TR easy stuff where I only needed to use my left hand fingers for light pull or balance.  These 4 weeks were the most enjoyable time for me in about 6 months span. Once my hard cast was cut off I didn't climb for quite a while as I rehabbed. If your hard cast is working and you are not pinching on holds I would keep listening to your body and Dr. And have fun!  It's a great time to work on footwork and just some 5.fun. As I eased back into it one thing that helped me physically and mentally was I didn't use my pointer finger while climbing. This kept me from feeling any pain or feeling like I was going to reinjure my thumb. It is a long recovery so be patient and enjoy that you get to go out still and also can be that one friend able to always be positive with a thumbs up!  Feel free to DM me if you want I am happy to share any advice on what has worked and has not as far as therapy etc.  Good luck on your journey of healing!