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Micro cams

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Kyle Sicard · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 55

Hey all,

I am in search of the communities opinion on what the most confidence inspiring micro cams are?

I want my micro cams to inspire at least half the confidence my black totem brings. Currently I have BD .2, .1, and 0 that I use on the regular. However, I’ve found that if they are not perfectly placed and really cammed out they do not hold on whips.

They certainly work but they definitely don’t inspire a ton of confidence for me as I frequently test them by yanking really hard after placing to see if I can get them to pull. They usually come out unless I can get them into an over cammed position with equal camming on both sides.

Which can be a challenge to find these positions when climbing 5.11 trad routes that require quick placements.

So what are y’all’s thoughts on the most solid micro cams to replace the Z4s I’m using?

FrankPS · · Atascadero, CA · Joined Nov 2009 · Points: 276

Kyle,

I'll bet this has been discussed before. If you use the search function, you might find recent discussions of this.

Matthew Jaggers · · Red River Gorge · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 695

Metolius Master Cams grab so hard most of the time that they're hard to remove. The 00, 0, and 1 are some of the best small cams I've found. C3's are nice too.

Z4's are nice, like you said, when they're in a nut placement. Otherwise, ive had the same experience... they just don't have any initial grab and will just rip out.

Chris Fedorczak · · Portland, OR · Joined Dec 2016 · Points: 0

Mastercams are wonderful micros, but not great in horizontals.

The triggers on the Z4s are mushy below .3

I’ve found the Dragonflies (1-3) to be really nice compliments to the ULMCs and Z4s below .3

Patrik · · Third rock from Sun · Joined Jun 2010 · Points: 30
Kyle Sicard wrote:

... Currently I have BD .2, .1, and 0 that I use on the regular. However, I’ve found that if they are not perfectly placed and really cammed out they do not hold on whips.

They certainly work but they definitely don’t inspire a ton of confidence for me as I frequently test them by yanking really hard after placing to see if I can get them to pull. They usually come out unless I can get them into an over cammed position with equal camming on both sides.

Which can be a challenge to find these positions when climbing 5.11 trad routes that require quick placements.

No matter what brand you pick, placing microcams never will (and never should) be a quick plug-and-go attitude. Tiny cams give a very small margin of error. Even the tiniest rock irregularities can make them useless (as you have appeared to found out already). Don't search for a magical gear solution, work on your placement skills instead (and that includes finding a "restful" spot where there seemingly are none so you have time to place better gear).

Kyle Sicard · · Chattanooga, TN · Joined Jun 2020 · Points: 55
FrankPS wrote:

Kyle,

I'll bet this has been discussed before. If you use the search function, you might find recent discussions of this.

Frank,

You are absolutely correct. That is my bad, sometimes we do things in a hurry when life is busy. I'll lock the thread.

Appreciate the feedback from everyone. I started doing some research across the dragonflies and they look like a strong bet. The other feedback about placements is spot on, I guess when your climbing harder routes you just need to be tough if your not in shape enough to place in cruxy positions =)

Thanks yall.

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