Maine Climbing Suggestions

Hey everyone, 

In about 2 weeks I'll be going up to Maine from Ohio for a week around the 4th with a few other climbers. We all have been climbing for about 2 years but this will be our first time up there since we've started climbing and are looking for some suggestions on places to hit. We will be staying in the Rangeley Lakes region so we're looking for stuff mainly on the western half of the state (I've obviously scoured MP for areas but would like advice from people who climb in the area often). For reference, we typically climb 5.10s sport and are starting to get into trad so 5.9 and lower trad; we also mainly climb in Ohio, the Red, and the New. Any suggestions, advice, or playful banter welcome.

Acadia

Mike Climberson wrote:

Acadia

I was thinking Acadia but that will be a little farther of a drive for us. Do you have any suggestions for areas in Acadia to check out that would be welcoming or are easier to get to? We don't mind if its a popular area, like I said we typically climb at the Red and are used to busy climbing areas.

Ten Degree is where you want to go.

10 Degree Wall seems like the obvious local choice, but I've never been. Tumbledown Dick in Bethel is another good option in your grade range, and Tumbledown Mountain is also a good one if you want a bit of casual adventure. I'd skip the sport since most of the Western Maine crags don't really shine until at least 5.11. 

Edit: Downthread, Mike recommended Squaredock. If you want to clip bolts that'd be my recommendation. There are a number of quality 10's there (the critter wall is 4-5 enjoyable 5.10s side-by-side from what I recall), and the approach isn't as long as the other sport crags in the region. 

The Handren guide has beta on both Squaredock and Tumbledown Dick (as well as the litany of other crags in the N Conway area).

Probably just head to NH in terms of easy access to good moderate rock. Cathedral Ledge is closer than the good stuff in Maine. 

But for what it lacks in quantity of rock, Maine is spectacular. Acadia is great. Camden is popular and more easily accessible but not quite amazing. If you want an alpine adventure it doesn't get much better than the Armadillo on Katahdin but you'll have to put in some time/suffering. 

Almost all the climbing in that part of New England is on granite (with the major exception of Rumney, NH --a good bit further west), which is quite different in climbing style from the sandstone and, possibly, limestone in the areas you are familiar with---with a much higher proportion of slabs, thin face, and cracks of all sizes, so at first you should try climbs a good bit below your top grades until you familiarize yourselves with the necessary techniques. Additionally, the overwhelming majority of climbs in that area will be trad instead of sport. I am not specifically familiar with the Rangely Lakes area, but undoubtedly there are worthwhile crags in the region or within a relatively short drive. However, in common with most areas in western Maine, they are likely to be seldom visited, with non-existent or hard-to-find information (and much of that of questionable accuracy compared to areas with published guidebooks), be subject to varying amounts of dirt, moss, lichen, etc., have bushwhacking approaches and descents, healthy flying insect populations, and a fair chance of some poison ivy. Despite all that, however, they will often have excellent and challenging climbing in beautiful locations. If you want to stay in Maine, I'd check out Shell Pond for a location with a good selection and variety of climbs. However, I think it would be very advisable for you to drive a bit further east to North Conway in NH, one of the best and most significant climbing areas in the East, with a great selection of classic climbs throughout the grades (again mostly trad) in a beautiful setting, with a good guidebook, very active local climbing community (with several climbing stores in town if you need supplies--along with good restaurants and pubs!!!). I'm guessing that it is about 1 1/2 hours drive from Rangely, but well-worth the effort. Acadia, mentioned above, is wonderful, but a good bit further from where you will be based.

I'll second the recommendations for 10 degree wall, Tumbledown Dick near Bethel, and the AMC route on the other Tumbledown--near Weld. I think you'll find the rock in the Rangely vicinity to be on the schist/gneiss/gritstone spectrum

Square dock ledge is pretty sweet, along with shell pond and of course Conway area. Camden is fun too. Feel free to PM me, I’m always around and getting out with new people and happy to share any beta!

Aunt Patty wrote:

Ten Degree is where you want to go.

Not this time of year (think full sun most of the day and bugs galore), nor would it be a good place for how new they are to climbing.  Not to mention the logging road is currently closed.

There are plenty of smaller, obscure crags, but most are off the beaten path and have little in the way of 5.10 and below.

I’d suggest Tumbledown in Gilead. 

Squaredock is a great location, but again it suffers from full sun exposure and bugs, plus a healthy bushwhack to get there. 

Tumbledown Dick near Bethel. Roadside cragging. Sport and trad in your grade range.

Shagg Crag in Woodstock. Super steep sport climbing mostly in the 12 range but several 9s and 10s.

+1 for tumble down,  the Bangor area has some great climbing if you want to travel a little.  Also shell pond

+1 for Tumbledown. 

If you want 5.9-10 sport climbs you could go to Conway area and check out some stuff.(Attitash, Jackson Crag, Eagle Mountain)

Shagg has a handful of easier things to kill a day as well.

Thanks everyone, I appreciate all of the feedback. I will take a closer look at all of the areas mentioned above and see what has the most in our grade range so we can make the most of the limited times we'll be able to climb. If you're in need of people to climb with or wouldn't mind showing us the areas please send me a message. I'm not asking for someone to be a guide at all just if someone wants to hangout and climb together we are a more than welcoming group. 

Also, if anyone has some advice on guidebooks for the area that would be much appreciated. I know of the N. Conway and the Acadia guidebooks but I'm not sure if we can make it to Acadia so I'm holding off on getting that.

The cliffs around Bethel, including a section with around 80 routes for Tumbledown Dick (Gilead) is included in this book.
https://www.northconwayrockclimbs.com

I've been quietly establishing routes in the Kingfield area, about 45 minutes north of Rangeley. 5.10 and under. If you want to sample some backwoods stuff while you're in the area, give a shout.

Jerry's book is excellent and includes a bunch of western Maine crags. Definitely worth picking up if you're exploring the area!

Chris, I’ve seen you posting a lot in the Facebook pages and stuff, I’m really interested in checking out some of your areas and routes up there. Give me a dm (or find me on the Maine climbers fb and dm me there) if you’re interested! 

Jerry Handren wrote:

The cliffs around Bethel, including a section with around 80 routes for Tumbledown Dick (Gilead) is included in this book.
https://www.northconwayrockclimbs.com

How is the new edition coming along, Jerry? I'm looking forward to it.