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Margo Hayes Makes History - First Woman To Climb Biographie, 5.15
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well, that's certainly news to me. impressive feat |
Dane B wrote: Didn't that happen a few years ago? |
Gumby King wrote: Yeah 2017 I believe. Still a fucking badass |
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Did y’all hear Lynn Hill freed the Nose? |
Cron wrote: LYYYYNNNN HIIIIILLLLL |
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Such a dichotomy of badass and adorable. |
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IT GOES BOYS! |
Cron wrote: Have you watched Free Solo!? |
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She has climbed with a lot of old school heavies on their routes, climbs new school with today's heavies here, she's the first woman to climb the grade in 2017, and now the first to climb this historic route. It bewilders me a little that this thread hasn't generated a little more attention and psych. Watch, listen, and learn: |
LL2 wrote: It bewilders me that you're bringing up old news. We were psyched 3 years ago but the feeling wears off. https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/113978650/margo-hayes-biographie-15a-full |
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LOL, well I truly am bewildered. I thought this just happened, haha. Shows how much I pay attention. Now I understand the comments. |
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But, it was fun to watch the reel rock version, and the raw, too. The raw gives a better sense of the actual climb, reel rock shows the back story and different angles. In this threads version, I enjoyed seeing the others stop what they were doing, and (it seems) you could almost hear everyone holding their breathe. I also loved the almost flat out horizontal at the start, even if it's not the hardest thing she does. That sorta move is just....not one my body will ever grant me. She not only made it look easy, and it was quite beautiful watching the athleticism and precision, but it looked fun! Delusions of doable, lol! If this was merely vertical, any guess about what the grade would be? Best, Helen |
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6c+/7a great guess huh? (That's 11c/d on the YDS) Fun question! |
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I thought the uncut footage was really interesting - perhaps it's the vantage point, but I noticed that she is more so than not square to the wall, and has a really wide stance. She'll flag every once in a while, but once she makes the move, it's back to being square. Her hip mobility seems to be absolutely incredible, which allows her to do that. Anyone else noticing that, or am I misinterpreting what I'm seeing? I'm always trying to get the side of my hip into the wall on steep stuff, maybe I should stop that and just try to suck into the wall, while also rotating my hips to allow my feet to be where they need to be. Like in my mind, if I'm square to the wall on steep stuff, I feel I must be doing something wrong.  |
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Was lucky enough to be there the day she sent Biographie. They were a lot of climbers that day and when she set off the entire cliff went silent. All you could hear were the birds and her belayer Alex Megos shouting occasional encouragement. When she stuck the crux the crowd started going wild and everyone went nuts when she clipped the chains. I’ve seen climbers send harder routes and watched a lot of the best but that day was something special. What’s funny is as Margo was lowering off she laughingly said “wait....I forgot to brush!” Lol. And yeah her hip mobility is ridiculous. |
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Ok now you got me psyched again |
Long Ranger wrote: Malcom da' God said it best here. this is gospel. |
