Beginner mountaineering gloves recommendations

I'm looking to get into mountaineering and will be starting with some Cascades climbs in late spring and early summer. Is there a moderately priced pair of gloves you'd recommend that has good dexterity? Also what should I look for when buying gloves for the above scenario, especially keeping in mind the unexpected event of a crevasse fall, and having to rescue myself or a teammate?

1. My hands tend to run cold, so I'd need some insulation.

2. Do the gloves need to be waterproof, or water resistant is good enough?

3. Do the palms need to be leather/abrasion resistant to work the ropes, or am I thinking too much about this? 

4. Thoughts on liner gloves or other layering of gloves ?

Thanks in advance!

1. Light, thin, cheap gloves for the walk up. The best way to get cold hands is to sweat in your too thick gloves.
2. A decent durable (but not too thick) leather palmed glove for actually swinging a tool. Thickness depends on temps. You may not even need these if you're just doing easy cascade volcano routes. 
3. A thick glove for just in case.

Keep your gloves in your shirt before you need them so they're warm. 

A pair of 100% polyester fleece gloves dries super fast and is great for a bit of insulation and tactility. Right now I know the Showa 282-02 winter gloves are very popular with japanese ice climbers (rememeber to size up) and are 100% waterproof and quite durable. They have a thin insulated liner. You will need to size up even more if you want to wear gloves under them. I have a pair but havent tested them yet extensively - definitely looks sort of like you are wearing rubber gloves - but they are also quite cheap. They do seem to have very very good dexterity though for waterproof gloves.

Most important thing though with gloves is fit - in general for a cheap pair of thin fleece gloves I'd recommend looking for the North Face TKA glacier fleece gloves on sale and for waterproof gloves (assuming they fit) with nice leather palms I have always really liked Outdoor Research. If they are making Ascentshell gloves yet that is probably the one of the best "waterproof breathable" membranes on the market since its actually air permeable yet still waterproof.

I saw someone posted about these gloves, I absolutely love them for when I rope up and start climbing. Dry and warm all day, great grip and dexterity. For my approach gloves I use a double glove that has light inner glove and then a waterproof shell, seems to be a good combo. I also carry a pair of fleece gloves and an extra hat in the bottom of my pack, just in case.

Eddie Bauer Guide Gloves are my favorite spring/summer gloves.

Good dexterity for messing with gear.  Warm enough for spring/summer conditions.  Water resistant enough for snow.  

Constantly on sale at close to half price.  

https://www.eddiebauer.com/p/71403224/guide-gloves?sp=1&color=Black&size=L&sizeType=Regular&ch=pla&cm_mmc=BingPLA-_-brand_PLA_B_Brand-_-Brand_All_Products-_-0143224100000060&utm_medium=psrch_pla&utm_source=g&utm_campaign=PLA_B_Brand&utm_content=Brand_All_Products&utm_term=0143224100000060&msclkid=e3a37dea94da1e1a5fde1d5f56ab628a

I'm a big Hestra fan. They are a bit spendy but definitely worth the money in general. 

For summer mountaineering I prefer a three-glove system consisting of 

1) a thick fleece liner, preferably with a few leather reinforcements (Arc'teryx did a couple of good models but pretty much anythning will do);

2) a good windproof dexterous glove (I love Hestra's Ergo Grip line-up, they make a number of models in various thicknesses, pick one depending on the weather);

3) a warm and waterproof glove for when shit hits the fan

The most important thing with a glove, as with shoes, is the fit. You don't want them to be too tight because that restricts circulation, but you DEFINITELY don't want them to be too loose as that makes doing stuff with ropes and carabiners pretty much impossible. If the glove that, on paper, is the best glove doesn't fit, it's not the best glove. 

SinRopa wrote:

OP, what size glove do you normally wear?

I'm between small and medium. Small fits like a glove; very tight and seems to provide maximum dexterity. Medium sizes are easy to wear for me with little slack in the finger tips. 

I’ll echo Victor with Hestra recommendation.  And only modify his list by replacing number 3 with a waterproof mitten that can be worn over the other two layers.  Almost never need to use it, but the mittens and a “shake-n-warm” rolled up tightly with a rubber band for emergency hand warmth makes me feel warmer just knowing I have it.   That system is maybe overkill for summer mountaineering, but it takes me to the -20’s easily.

For summer, I’d substitute a thinner, more dexterous glove for (2)