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Slab Climbing Technique

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Nathan Doyle · · Gold Country, CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 57



Tal M · · Denver, CO · Joined Dec 2018 · Points: 1,447

Honestly, I'd skip this video - didn't give me any tips on the best hysterics for when I'm making promises of a sin-less life 27ft above my last piece of pro. The mental breakdown you overcome is just as impressive as the send itself.

Samuel Parker · · Stockton, CA · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 15

These vids are a pretty solid series. Been really enjoying them the past couple weeks.

Mark Pilate · · MN · Joined Jun 2013 · Points: 25

Slab climbing is just warmer ice climbing...heels down, weight over feet, don’t over-reach, pro is sparse...just don’t fall, it’ll be ugly 

Alan Rubin · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2015 · Points: 10

Yeah, slab climbing, especially the edging variety, is just like warm ( most of the time) ice climbing with no tools and millimeter long front points.

x15x15 · · Use Ignore Button · Joined Mar 2009 · Points: 275

Roddy!!!

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260
Tal M wrote:

Honestly, I'd skip this video - didn't give me any tips on the best hysterics for when I'm making promises of a sin-less life 27ft above my last piece of pro. The mental breakdown you overcome is just as impressive as the send itself.

So that may just means you're already good at slab climbing. I'm not sure it warrants being dissed on though - it's good quality advice for newer slab climbers, imo.d

Nathan Doyle · · Gold Country, CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 57
Franck Vee wrote:

So that may just means you're already good at slab climbing. I'm not sure it warrants being dissed on though - it's good quality advice for newer slab climbers, imo.d

Initially I thought it was dissing but, now that I've reread it, I think what he's saying is he's absolutely terrified of long slab runouts and preys to God that he'll never commit another sin again and this in exchange for getting him through the climb and down (or up) safely.

Yeah, I'm not sure head game tips can be transferred over a video like this and is something that people will just have to experience through on their own. 

Of course, there is "Vertical Mind: Psychological Approaches for Optimal Rock Climbing" and "The Rock Warrior's Way: Mental Training for Climbers" but, even reading those aren't enough to reach slab runout zin, if you ask me. You kind of just have to walk the walk, or in this case, walk the slab.

Franck Vee · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2017 · Points: 260

Ah yeah I may have mis-read that actually. And no, there's not way to transmit any mental fortitude through the tubes, one has to experience it, and fall running backward a few times....

Kirk Grant · · Manitou Springs, CO · Joined Jan 2021 · Points: 0

Nose over toes and if u blow then then u go toes over nose

Clean climbing shoes soles with water and brush before each pitch of slab climbing. And avoid stepping upon dirt.

hillbilly hijinks · · Guantanamo Bay · Joined Mar 2020 · Points: 181

Excellent verbal explanation, tbh.

Kauait · · Wheels be turnin. · Joined Aug 2015 · Points: 0

Great introductory vid for beginners..

Most beginning (and even skilled) climbers need to take note to these techniques.

It will assist in there climbing immensely!

Kristian Solem · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,070

That's a pretty good video. He covers all the bases really well.

But steep slab is a black art.

One of the best steep slab/thin face climbers I ever knew said "You have to use your whole body like a big four fingered hand."

Yoda Jedi Knight · · Cashmere, WA · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0
Kristian Solem wrote:

That's a pretty good video. He covers all the bases really well.

But steep slab is a black art.

One of the best steep slab/thin face climbers I ever knew said "You have to use your whole body like a big four fingered hand."

Just one question. What are the characteristics of a big four fingered hand?

Captain Ahab · · Austin, TX · Joined Jun 2015 · Points: 19
Yoda Jedi Knight wrote:

Just one question. What are the characteristics of a big four fingered hand?

You poor three fingered being…

Kristian Solem · · Monrovia, CA · Joined Apr 2004 · Points: 1,070
Yoda Jedi Knight wrote:

Just one question. What are the characteristics of a big four fingered hand?

You grab the rock with your whole body.

I was climbing with a Buddy on a hard slabby face up at Courtright. It was a weird move because the only hold for your hand was in the wrong place. In reach but out of balance. I yelled down "F=ck that hold. Place your hand where you think the hold should be and grab that spot. He did the move. It's all about grabbing the rock. With your hand, three off them, or all four.

Nathan Doyle · · Gold Country, CA · Joined Feb 2016 · Points: 57

Not sure why we're talking about hands in a slab climbing technique thread. I mean, did you all even watch the video?

Then again, slab is the only place my crimp game shines  

old5ten · · Sunny Slopes + Berkeley, CA · Joined Sep 2012 · Points: 5,005
Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

Good tutorial, and good teaching style. I'll subscribe for more! 

dullah m · · Elk Grove, CA · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 0
Tal M wrote:

Honestly, I'd skip this video - didn't give me any tips on the best hysterics for when I'm making promises of a sin-less life 27ft above my last piece of pro. The mental breakdown you overcome is just as impressive as the send itself.

this guy slabs

SICgrips · · Charlottesville · Joined Dec 2012 · Points: 146
Tal M wrote:

Honestly, I'd skip this video - didn't give me any tips on the best hysterics for when I'm making promises of a sin-less life 27ft above my last piece of pro. The mental breakdown you overcome is just as impressive as the send itself.

Great humor used to express two truths:

1) physical technique does not prepare one for the mental battle and stamina needed when climbing friction slab at ones limit.

2) climbing slab is a religious experience

My advice...extra protection. Gird your loins with a pair of Depends

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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