Advice on glacier/mountaineering harness

Plan to do some mountaineering this summer.  Mostly glacier walk and snow ridges.  For those in PNW something like the northeast arete of Wedge mtn.  There may be some easy rock pitches here and there.

What do you folks like for harnesses?

Don't need much support for those pursuits so something thin/light/packable. 

I like multiple real gear loops not just thin floppy webbing, but what kind of loops and how many depends on whether you'll primarily rack on your pack (if the hip belt has gear loops and your prefer it this way) or the harness (light day pack, minimal hip belt)

And whether you want ice clipper slots depends on whether you'll lead any real ice, it's not a huge deal to rack a couple on a carabiner if it's just for an occasional anchor. 

 Blue Ice has a nice lineup of lightweight harnesses. I have used the Choucas Pro quite a bit over the last two years. Its definitely not perfect, but it strikes a decent balance between being ultralight and having all the features of a heavier harness.    

Not really advice, only what I've recently encountered while looking for a similar harness:

The Edelrid Huascaran is for sale on Steep and Cheap - (updated model at Elderid) - A new model is supposed to be released soon, if it hasn't already been (and why this version is on sale.) The new model will have 4 gear loops, if I remember correctly, instead of only two. Unless they update it at the last minute, they both will have the older style buckle, which may or may not be a pita or bother you. If nothing else, I'd say get this one (vs just making due with a sport or trad harness), it's cheap enough.

Looks like the Prisma Alpine Guide - (full details at Edelrid) - was just released and is already on sale (but do check other sites, it may be cheaper.) Although expensive, this was the harness I had my eye on, as it's more similar to a climbing harness than other mountaineering harness are, yet still has many of the features one might need for various alpine pursuits. And although it's a bit too sexy looking for my taste, it's super light and seems to tick many boxes, at least on paper (if only we could demo harnesses like we can demo skis and bikes and such.) Either way, too bad it's only available in a size M right now.

One of my climbing partners recently picked up the Zephir Altitude on sale. I checked it out and it's fine; seems like a decent option really and something to consider if you didn't mind spending a bit more than the Huascaran. I'm just not a big fan of the gear loops that lay flat like that, however (another reason I was considering the Prisma Alpine Guide.) I like the plastic covered harder gear loops vs the softer flat laying cordage ones; but not sure it would be the same with a giant gear loop like the Huascaran or not. Note: I'm new to this style of climbing, so I don't know what I don't know; and of course, some people prefer the softer gear loops anyway so, ymmv.

I'm sure you already knew this but, being able to get into the harness without stepping into the waste belt and or the leg loops, while wearing crampons or skis etc. is one of (if not) the main factor/s to consider and I wouldn't buy a harness without it. I have a BD Aspect, that I've used in the past as my day to day harness and although it's technically an Alpine harness, it's not 100% easy on/off like these other harnesses are; and why I was even considering another option instead (buckled leg loop? Who wants to mess with that while wearing gloves? Not me...)

Anyway, there are many other harness out there that I've checked out, other than these, including the Blue Ice brand, which isn't as well known, but seems worthy enough and there is a Beal harness on Steep and Cheap right now too and of course Petzl and BD but, that's all I have for you right now.

I posted a review not long ago on the Blue Ice Choucacs Pro. I got it specifically for alpine stuff and glacier routes. It’s light and comfortable, has four gear loops, can be put on while wearing skis/pons, and packs up super small. Recommend. Used it once for cragging and liked it; taking it to Rainier in a month. 

Why has nobody (Looks like the post is super recent) recommended the Petzl Altitude yet? From my understanding it's the best on the market for what the OP asked for?

Fly is better than the Altitude, in my opinion. The Fly is unbelievable

Pat Light wrote:

Fly is better than the Altitude, in my opinion. The Fly is unbelievable

What about that funky belay loop situation? 

Sylvester Jakubowski wrote:

Why has nobody (Looks like the post is super recent) recommended the Petzl Altitude yet? From my understanding it's the best on the market for what the OP asked for?

Because there is no best, only personal preference. 

Sylvester Jakubowski wrote:

Why has nobody (Looks like the post is super recent) recommended the Petzl Altitude yet? From my understanding it's the best on the market for what the OP asked for?

The Altitude is much more uncomfortable (the stiff waist band almost cut my soft, white underbelly) than the Blue Ice Choucas Light, is heavier, and has the world's worst "gear loops." The Choucas light is probably too minimal for rock and raps, but so is the Altitude. The Blue Ice is the one to beat for a glacier harness currently (edited to add "IMO" but my opinion is always perfect). 

Don’t get the Choucacs light if you want kids.

The Choucacs Pro is the way to go if you go Choucacs.

YOLOLZ Bicarbonate wrote:

Don’t get the Choucacs light if you want kids.

The Choucacs light is the way to go if you go Choucacs.

Can you clarify which choucas you like?  First sentence sounds like light is a no but second sounds like a yes

Nathan Doyle wrote:

Not really advice, only what I've recently encountered while looking for a similar harness:

The Edelrid Huascaran is for sale on Steep and Cheap - (updated model at Elderid) - A new model is supposed to be released soon, if it hasn't already been (and why this version is on sale.) The new model will have 4 gear loops, if I remember correctly, instead of only two. Unless they update it at the last minute, they both will have the older style buckle, which may or may not be a pita or bother you. If nothing else, I'd say get this one (vs just making due with a sport or trad harness), it's cheap enough.

Looks like the Prisma Alpine Guide - (full details at Edelrid) - was just released and is already on sale (but do check other sites, it may be cheaper.) Although expensive, this was the harness I had my eye on, as it's more similar to a climbing harness than other mountaineering harness are, yet still has many of the features one might need for various alpine pursuits. And although it's a bit too sexy looking for my taste, it's super light and seems to tick many boxes, at least on paper (if only we could demo harnesses like we can demo skis and bikes and such.) Either way, too bad it's only available in a size M right now.

One of my climbing partners recently picked up the Zerphir Altitude on sale. I checked it out and it's fine; seems like a decent option really and something to consider if you didn't mind spending a bit more than the Huascaran. I'm just not a big fan of the gear loops that lay flat like that, however (another reason I was considering the Prisma Alpine Guide.) I like the plastic covered harder gear loops vs the softer flat laying cordage ones; but not sure it would be the same with a giant gear loop like the Huascaran or not. Note: I'm new to this style of climbing, so I don't know what I don't know; and of course, some people prefer the softer gear loops anyway so, ymmv.

I'm sure you already knew this but, being able to get into the harness without stepping into the waste belt and or the leg loops, while wearing crampons or skis etc. is one of (if not) the main factor/s to consider and I wouldn't buy a harness without it. I have a BD Aspect, that I've used in the past as my day to day harness and although it's technically an Alpine harness, it's not 100% easy on/off like these other harnesses are; and why I was even considering another option instead (buckled leg loop? Who wants to mess with that while wearing gloves? Not me...)

Anyway, there are many other harness out there that I've checked out, other than these, including the Blue Ice brand, which isn't as well known, but seems worthy enough and there is a Beal harness on Steep and Cheap right now too and of course Petzl and BD but, that's all I have for you right now.

Thanks for replying.  Looks like Prism's leg loops do not detached?

Sylvester Jakubowski wrote:

What about that funky belay loop situation? 

You'll want to pay attention to it, of course, but it ended up being a total non-issue for me. I'll note that a lot of this comes down to personal preference and precisely what constitutes an efficient, repeatable setup that works with all your other mountain systems.

The primary thing about the Fly (for me) is that it's just unbelievably nice to move around in, especially with regard to one's dangly bits. I found that on long days of moving upward at a fast clip, that moving comfort pays off more than the other variables do. It's not the harness for a double rack and a bunch of screws but gracious me does it wear like a spring breeze

YOLOLZ Bicarbonate wrote:

Don’t get the Choucacs light if you want kids.

The Choucacs light is the way to go if you go Choucacs.

Are you sure you wrote what you meant?

He said he has the Pro in his previous post, lucky for you there wasn’t a pop quiz!

RWPT wrote:

Thanks for replying.  Looks like Prism's leg loops do not detached?

Do they 100% detach from the waist belt? They do not, as the belay loop is still sewn in like a normal climbing harness. 

The Huascaran and Zephir is also this way, but attached (tacked) with the leg strap material on the side of the waist belt instead of the normal belay loop style sewing like the Prisma Guide (or a normal climbing harness), so the waist strap is still free from the belay loop itself on those models but, it's still not 100% free from the leg straps. Better pics of the leg loops sewn into the waist belt of the Zephir can be found here on Backcountry; this is how many of the other alpine/mountaineering harness work as well, for what I've seen anyway.

The leg loop attachment do detach from themselves, however and is similar to the other harnesses in that aspect. The difference being that the Zephir/Huascaran et al. use single position plastic buckles (though they may be adjustable using the straps, I'm not sure) and the Prisma use metal "tabs" that feed through small loops of material; with two positional loops for tighter or looser fit, dependent on thickness of your layers. 

I'm not sure which of the two buckle styles is easier to deal with while wearing gloves, however and would be grateful if someone who's tried both types can update us in that regard.

More options may not be helpful to you but, most of the harnesses that come up first in the list on the Weigh my Rack site are glacier/mountaineering harnesses; assuming you have the sort by weight setting set on low to high (should be set to that by default but, not sure.)

https://weighmyrack.com/harness

I'm not sure it's an exhaustive list but, pretty darn close, I'd say.

How embarrassing...

The Choucacs Pro is the way to go. Avoid the Light.

The toggle closures on the Choucacs Light are a pain to do , the loop is too small to easily insert the metal piece. Having the bungee safety keeper cord should have allowed for bigger loops.  It hasn’t attempted to castrate me as it did Yololz.

I have a Mammut Zephir Altitude and absolutely love it, it has been on a whole crapload of routes with me from non-technical glacier walks and skimo objectives to fairly difficult alpine ice and mixed.  The main limitations are it only has 2 gear loops, and it's not very comfortable for extended rappelling.  The gear loops aren't that big of a deal since I don't carry a double rack on these types of routes, and with ice screws loaded into ice clippers you don't need a ton of additional harness space.  The rappelling discomfort isn't that big of a deal, if you're into long miserable walks in remote places, what's a little more temporary discomfort really?  I love how small and compact it is in my pack on the approach.