Five Ten Anasazi VCS vs Unparallel Up Rise VCS Fitment?

So my search for a good allrounder shoe continues. Really wanted the Anasazi VCS to work for me, perhaps more than any other shoe, but sadly they don’t fit my foot. The symmetrical shape of their toe box just doesn’t work for me. Basically, my big toe is pushed towards the center of the shoe too much  (so much that it’s pushed under my next toe) and makes it so I’m basically climbing with 4 toes super painful. The next size up in Anasazis is just a bit too long and lacks edging support.

I recently was at Nomad Ventures and the girl there recommended Unparallel. Unfortunately they didn’t have the Up Rise VCS. Long story short, does anyone know how the toe box on these are compared to Anasazi VCS? Is it any more asymmetrical, or any wider than the Anasazi? I’m comparing photos of the two shoes and it does look like the toe box in Up Rise is slightly different, but I could just be hopefully imagining that. Does anyone have direct experience with the two shoes? Any insight greatly appreciated!

Fit is nearly the same, its the same last designed by the same people. The difference in the pictures just looks like cropping.

James P wrote:

Fit is nearly the same, its the same last designed by the same people. The difference in the pictures just looks like cropping.

Ah man. Okay, so safe to assume they won’t fit me then? I’ve heard a couple people say the up rise are higher volume, but maybe they just were imagining that and not sure if there comments correlated to width at all. 

Ben E wrote:

Ah man. Okay, so safe to assume they won’t fit me then? I’ve heard a couple people say the up rise are higher volume, but maybe they just were imagining that and not sure if there comments correlated to width at all. 

I cannot speak for the 5.10 shoe, but I do own a pair of the UP rise and can confirm they are a higher volume shoe. I went a full size down from street and would say this is a tight, but not overly painful fit. I find the toe box a bit roomy specifically over the top of the toes (which doesn’t really matter much) but I do not feel like they pushing my toes towards center as was described above. Overall I really like the shoe and they have easily lasted over a year for me with heavy climbing! Highly recommend the shoe and brand.

I think I tried Anasazis quite a while ago, and your feedback sounds similar to what I felt - big toe was being crushed
In general, I find that Evolv shoes fit my feet better.
I usually use Shamans, size 10, a bit of big toe compression, toe box doesn't feel bad. LaS Solutions were putting too much pressure on the big toe.
Recently tried Geshido with laces, like the fit at 10.5 quite a bit - the big toe goes out a bit more. Shoe feels stiffer than Shaman, edges quite well. Chose that as my comfort shoe. 

Christopher Weaver wrote:

I cannot speak for the 5.10 shoe, but I do own a pair of the UP rise and can confirm they are a higher volume shoe. I went a full size down from street and would say this is a tight, but not overly painful fit. I find the toe box a bit roomy specifically over the top of the toes (which doesn’t really matter much) but I do not feel like they pushing my toes towards center as was described above. Overall I really like the shoe and they have easily lasted over a year for me with heavy climbing! Highly recommend the shoe and brand.

This is good to hear. I’m wondering though if you have a more symmetrical shaped foot shape though. Maybe I should just order a pair and see how they fit. Worst case I lose return shipping costs.  Thanks for the insight! 

I got a pair of the UpRise VCS in my street shoe. I also feel they are a higher volume shoe compared to the Anasazi VCS.  Otherwise they fit pretty similar. I would compare the volume to the Anasazi VCS Pro, which is higher volume and has a tighter heel than the original VCS. I'm hoping the Unparallel LV shoes will provide a snug fit, but I'd rather try them on first next time.

Ben E wrote:

This is good to hear. I’m wondering though if you have a more symmetrical shaped foot shape though. Maybe I should just order a pair and see how they fit. Worst case I lose return shipping costs.  Thanks for the insight! 

No problem! I think they are worth the gamble at least to try the brand and see if they have the potential to be a good fit. My feet are asymmetric, however, I do have a friend with more symmetrical feet and he likes his UP Mocc a lot. From what I can tell as well the UP Mocc and UP Rise are essentially the same shoe.

The Mocc may even have less overhead volume than the UP Rise because the upper on the Mocc is different considering the Mocc needs to over compensate for security over the foot due to the lack of a closure system.

Either way I am happy to help! I really enjoy climbing shoes of all brands!

Ethan Ayer wrote:

I got a pair of the UpRise VCS in my street shoe. I also feel they are a higher volume shoe compared to the Anasazi VCS.  Otherwise they fit pretty similar. I would compare the volume to the Anasazi VCS Pro, which is higher volume and has a tighter heel than the original VCS. I'm hoping the Unparallel LV shoes will provide a snug fit, but I'd rather try them on first next time.

Okay got it. So by higher volume, they’re just a bit taller in the toe box? But the overall toe box itself is shaped identical (looking down at the shoe) to the Anasazi? Thanks for the insight 

The UP VCS is more like the NIAD instead of the old Anasazi. Way too much volume in toe box, and the front strap would need to be about a strap-width closer to the toe. The Anasazi strap supports the ball of the foot, these two imitations place the strap behind the ball almost inflating the toe box as you step. I've been die hard Anasazi guy for most my career. These two models are really nothing like them. In Anasazi I wear an 11. I ordered an 11 in UP and they are about same as the NIAD 12 I tried. Don't know if the LV would be the solution, but I will be ready to move on to something else if I can bring myself to wear these out.

Darren Mabe wrote:

The UP VCS is more like the NIAD instead of the old Anasazi. Way too much volume in toe box, and the front strap would need to be about a strap-width closer to the toe. The Anasazi strap supports the ball of the foot, these two imitations place the strap behind the ball almost inflating the toe box as you step. I've been die hard Anasazi guy for most my career. These two models are really nothing like them. In Anasazi I wear an 11. I ordered an 11 in UP and they are about same as the NIAD 12 I tried. Don't know if the LV would be the solution, but I will be ready to move on to something else if I can bring myself to wear these out.

Any chance you've found a good replacement for the Anasazi? I'm finally wearing my last pair of deadstock Anasazis out and need something to replace them! 

Austin Eddy wrote:

Any chance you've found a good replacement for the Anasazi? I'm finally wearing my last pair of deadstock Anasazis out and need something to replace them! 

Unfortunately no

Interesting to find this conversation still going as I am in a similar situation. My die hard Anasazi Pros are on their last leg after two resoles and I figured my surefire solution was to grab a pair of UP Up-Rise VCS. My street size is 10.5, I wear Anasazi Pro in 10.5 and I ordered Up-Rise in 10.5. Unfortunately they feel at least a half size larger in length and are so roomy in the heel and above the entire forefoot that I’m not entirely sure what route to go. I cut about 2 inches off the straps of the Anasazi’s but the UP seems even worse with how far they need to be pulled for a secure fit. I have wide feet so if the LV is more narrow that’s definitely not the move to make. And a half size down is likely to have the same spacing issues. Of course now their entire site is not taking orders…