Removing gorilla glue
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The intention here is not to create an ethics conversation... A newer climber took it in their hands to reinforce a flake at a bouldering area I’ve been developing. They used bright white gorilla construction glue and smeared the seam like you would seal a bathtub. It’s extremely obvious and ugly. It makes me feel personally accountable given that I brought this person into the fold in this area. I’d like to rectify the situation and remove the glue... any secrets or insights on achieving this on a rough rock surface? |
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C G wrote: If only there was some kind of search capability on the internet..... https://www.google.com/search?client=firefox-b-1-d&q=Removing+gorilla+glue |
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Marc801 C wrote: Wow. Aren’t you so brilliant. Hadn’t thought of that before. So glad you exist....If only those search capabilities applied to people’s experiences using those chemicals on rough and odd surfaces found on rocks?! Hmmm |
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I think this woman could help. She has experience: https://www.cnn.com/2021/02/08/us/gorilla-glue-girl-scli-intl/index.html |
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FrankPS wrote: Haha. Yes. I came across this in my search as well. Sounds miserable! People do some crazy things. |
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Well, removal of glue is likely to create way more damage. Perhaps you could mitigate the eyesore - putting a layer of sand/rock on that seam? |
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Lacquer thinner |
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C G wrote: You didn't give any details in your OP, so it sounded like the typical MP "ask before doing any research at all." |
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C G wrote: That would have been a great question, but it's not the question you asked. |
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My workplace uses a lot of adhesives, although we dont use gorilla glue. As the first link showed acetone will work fairly well, isopropyl alchohol is another alternative, but it's not quite as effective. Depending on the depth/width of the glue bead you are going to want to bring lots of paper towels and/or q-tips. Most adhesives aren't going to just dissolve with acetone, but they sort of soften up, so the trick is to get the q-tip/paper towel soaking wet with acetone and then rub it on the adhesive to strip it away. If there is a LOT of adhesive you may want to try and find a way to soak the gorilla glue in acetone, that might be difficult. Other ways to more quickly address the issue would be abrasives, llike sandpaper or files, which will likely damage surrounding rock unless you are very careful, or cutting tools. Exacto knives work well as a way to separate glues from a smooth surface that they are adhered to. Depending on what your flake looks like this might be a viable option, but can make permanent marks on the rocks if you are not careful. Regarding the efffect of solvents on rocks: acetone is an organic solvent which evaporates quicky and isn't going to stain the rock, but it will damage orgainic matter, so if there is some plant that you want to keep alive near there, I guess make sure you don't douse it in acetone. Acetone can leave a very faint residue, that is not going to be an issue for your use case (its more for see through objects, like lenses or cleaning chemistry stuff), and that will pretty much be gone after it rains. Also, you'll notice it drying out your hands a ton, if you don't wear gloves. Hope that helps! |
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Isn’t removal from rock implied without specifying? It’s not like they want help with removing from their hair, skin, or anything other than rock. The question has to do with rock. But I don’t have advice either. |
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I don't have any specific knowledge about gorilla glue on stone but if I had to do that job I'd collect some samples of the stone and try all the best ideas you find first. Solvents, maybe a torch, or a grout saw? Good luck |
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Charlie Martz wrote: Thanks for the advice. This is helpful. Its over an hour hike, so experimentation will be somewhat slow. Its also slightly overhanging, so soaking will be a bit of a challenge. This is helpful though. I may try to press a soaked towel against the bead and see what happens. Probably bring some scraping tools. Drying my hands more will be an added bonus. Haha |
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What you should do is bury some gorilla glue of the same type and do a test of all the methods suggested here at home and see which works the best. A small nylon work brush will get in between the rock and help in hard to work places. All the solvents dry out quickly so you you will need to keep re-wetting the glue. |
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Also acetone and lacquer thinner have a powerful smell, denatured alcohol not so much. |
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C G wrote: Just paint the white of the glue to match the rock or put a thin layer glue on top and throw some dirt on it. You will never get all the glue out. Isn't chalk white anyway? |
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Tradiban wrote: This is very bright white and stretches about 5 ft around a large flake. It looks like bathtub caulking gone bad. And I'm really not confident it actually holds the 100+lb flake on anyway. I still have to decide whether to remove the flake entirely and patch up the ugly remnant glue, or try to legitimately reinforce the flake and remove/cover up the gorilla glue. The former option might actually be uglier in the end (but possibly safer). Either way, I'm sure I will be covering over the remnant gorilla glue with something less conspicuous (i.e. greyish epoxy with local sand/grit). Or maybe try to torch it as someone else suggested. |
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The raw ingredien of gorilla glue is isocyanate. This is what will work.... Dynasolve 180 Dynasolve 180 Cured Polymer Cleaning Solvent Dynasolve® 180 Cured Polymer Cleaning Solvent is a cleaning solvent used for removing cured urethane, crystallized isocyanate, and cured epoxy. It is used in a broad variety of electronic and industrial cleaning applications. |
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Be smart about open flame! Just don’t do it unless you have correct PPE. https://www.sprayfoam.com/forum/topic/disolving-hard-iso-/3104 also, the cleaning chemicals require proper PPE and disposal. better to just cover the white with dirt or dust from the rock. |
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Pete S wrote: Yes, quite a mix of nastiness that works. Unfortunately suggested use is soaking fully immersed parts at somewhat high temperatures. I suspect this approach would be problematic on an overhanging outdoor surface, additionally there will be major evaporation. To OP - it you decide to experiment, get yourself disposable gloves, I would recommend PVC. Try not to breath this shit, or don't drive for an hour if you do. |