First Time Climbing in Yosemite Valley

Heading to the valley for the first time next week and wondering if anyone has some route recommendations for a good intro into valley climbing and basic tips for how to get the most out of a few days there? I've led 5.9 trad in Boulder Canyon, some 5.8 Eldo routes and climb 11a sport. Also looking to project a harder route but would need to spend some time on top rope first if anyone has any recommendations. 

Thanks!

So quiet here - anything you want to get on, even Freerider is wide open! Let us know how it goes!

Erik Sloan, Rockclimbingyosemite.com

This is what the Route Finder is good at.

Usually the plan is to drop the grade down at first to make sure the grades line up to what you are used to.

https://www.mountainproject.com/route-finder?selectedIds=105833388&type=rock&diffMinrock=1600&diffMinboulder=20000&diffMinaid=70000&diffMinice=30000&diffMinmixed=50000&diffMaxrock=2500&diffMaxboulder=20050&diffMaxaid=75260&diffMaxice=38500&diffMaxmixed=60000&is_trad_climb=1&is_sport_climb=1&is_top_rope=1&stars=3.8&pitches=0&sort1=rating&sort2=area

Standard popular intro routes are in that generated list, like 

Grack Center, Munginella, After Six, Harry Daley Route, Bishop's Terrace, Ranger Crack, After Seven, Reed's Pinnacle Regular Route, etc.

You can easily set up a top rope on Highway Star 10a. Its a good little pitch. Ive only don't it once or twice in my 16 years being here, but I remember it being kinda fun, and newbies absolutely love that pitch. 

To get the most outta your days cragging is a good call 

- Pat and Jack area has a ton of easier trad (in the range you are looking for) and some quality sport. A few harder lines too if that's your fancy. 

- Five and Dime wall has a bunch of easier routes, with some harder ones thrown in. Right above that is Reeds Pinnacle, more cragging with a mix of routes. Try Reeds regular route 5.9 fingers. Great views.

If you wanna get on some intro level Yosemite multipitch, try Central Pillar Of Frenzy 5.9, Nutcracker 5.8 (but always crowded on weekends) or any of the 5 Open Book routes. You can't go wrong there. 

May can be perfect or it can be scorching hot. As a broad generality, there are probably higher concentrations of single on 1-2 pitch routes in your range on the south facing walls of the Valley and what MP calls Lower Merced Canyon, than on the opposite side of the Valley.   Basic tips on how to get the most of a few days there might include; borrowing a Valley guidebook from someone to help you get physically oriented, keeping your eyes open for poison oak in the lower Valley so you don't ruin your trip, realizing that a lot of the Valley routes need two ropes to get down. Pay attention to the lengths of the routes with your 1/2 rope marker. If setting up a toprope on one of these longer routes, remember to tie into the "middle" of the rope rather than the end, so your partner doesn't have to pass the knot.  I make these obvious statements because a lot of people climb at places where using one 70 M rope to get down is the standard.

Pat & Jack Pinnacle is very easy to find and has a short approach and has a high concentration of routes you could do.  MP has it in Lower Merced - Cascade Falls area - Pat & Jack. The two pitch route Nurdle is a very nice 5.8  from the top of the first pitch you can work your way over (with a little care) to set up top ropes on either Sherries Crack to the left or Knob Job to the right,  Both of those harder cracks take excellent gear is you want to lead them after trying on toprope.  There are also some very nice sport routes in your grade, like Trough of Justice, Babble oN, Skinheads, Boneheads.  A couple of those can take some supplemental gear, read the route notes.  On the right side of the cliff there is a nice 5.9 crack, Suds that takes excellent gear.  There is a well protected 10a right next to it.  IIRC, none of these routes are very steep by Valley standards.

The Church Bowl is another Area that has a bunch of routes concentrated in one place that you could do, and of course Bishop's Terrace should be on everybody's do list.  Fantastic route.  Black is Brown and Church Bowl Lieback (one of Clint's routes) are both cracks in your range.

Jam Crack route is easy to find and is a great one for your lead list after you get used to Valley Cracks.  From the top of the first pitch of Jam Crack, there are two very good 5.10s, Lazy Bum and Bummer, you can TR if you want to get a feel for those grades.

Have a great time in the Valley.

Nutcracker ,Commitment,Point Beyond,Braille Book,& Royal Arches. Have a great time !

Golden Needles is an excellent 5.8 crack climb at Cascade Falls. Not far from Pat and Jack, so that would make a nice combination. 

Adding Super Slide (a soft 5.9)