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Butora Endeavor Wide vs the La Sportiva Tarantulace
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So I tried the La Sportiva Finale sized down to a traditional level (1 1/2) below street size and I find them painfully tight while climbing. Smearing is virtually impossible because it's too painful to uncurl my toes. I'm taking the advice to hold on to these and use them as an intermediate shoes once I've levelled up. In the meanwhile I went on mountain shoe project, put in my measurements and it got my street size right (8.5) and it's saying they classify me as a wide foot which I don't doubt. After playing with all the filters and limiting my selection to beginner grade, I ended up with the Butora Endeavor's as the top pic for a perfect fit for my shoes. The Tarantulace's almost meet my foot perfectly according to mountain shoe project except they are a medium width and not wide. What makes me hesitate to get the butora's is that they aren't as popular and more importantly some of the reviews state that the rubber sucks for outdoor use (I exclusively sport climb outside on limestone). Im planning to size either shoe for comfort and not the traditional fit, I'm no where near ready to climb when sized to the traditional fit. Which shoe do you think will work out better for me until I can manage the finales? |
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https://www.lasportiva.com/media/size_chart/chart_ClimbingShoes.jpg |
Levi X wrote: This doesn't help much. The sportivas in the wide beginner section are either discontinued or aimed at gym use... |
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Finale VS is a snug fitting, confortable, easy to pull on model. The perforated fabric makes this boot extremely breathable. Long lasting 5mm Vibram XS Edge sole. This boot is ideal both for use in the gym as well as on longer routes thanks to its high comfort levels. https://www.lasportiva.com/en/finale-vs-man-green-10xsb Unfortunately this is your best sportiva option. Have you looked at anything evolv or scarpa makes? |
Levi X wrote: The other options in the beginner section are like the Tarantulace's medium width so no advantage in terms of fit. |
Julian J wrote: Youre overthinking gym vs outside. Shoes don't matter much at beginner levels assuming they fit properly. Just get something that fits your foot and work on technique. Try on a bunch of pairs at your local store and buy a pair from them. If you don't have a local climbing shop order a couple options from your favorite online retailer and return the ones that don't fit. If you feel like I am wrong then I would recommend you give these companies a call and explain your shoe sizing to have them give you a recommendation. |
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you should also look into Scarpa shoes as I feel like they have the best production quality on the marked at the moment (and I do have 4-5 La Sportiva models in my quiver). I would recommend looking at the Vapor V. Super good allround shoe. Personally I don't like totally flat shoes like the finale for outdoor climbing. Don't fit your shoes too large as you will loose precision and feedback and with floopy shoes you are unable to develop good footwork. The sooner you develop that and start trusting you feet the better as bad habits take way longer to get rid of than to develope them in the first place. Like Dave MacLeod explains in 9 out of 10 climbers. Obviously they should not be painful half a pitch up but if you don't need to take them off belaying then they are too large (for single pitch sportclimbing). Assuming the shape of the shoe is right for you there is no reason why you shouldn't fit them snug. Also if they are totally comfortable out of the box I suspect they could be a bit on the large side once broken in. Once the top of your knuckles develop a bit thicker skin after regular wear climbing shoes get a lot more comportable. Just avoid any cramped foot feeling you get from downsized shoes. You definitely don't need that at your stage. |
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Just stick with the finales, they're a good shoe and they stretch a lot. As a beginner you're probably just not there as far as pain tollerance goes, that will come with time. |
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Why don't you upload a photo of your foot, best clad in a funky sock, people will be able to give you better advise. But, it you are not willing to do that you should get ready for pointless shoe beta spray. Laced Evolv Geshidos are the most comfortable climbing shoe, I sized .5 size larger that Evolv Shamans, they fit like a glove. You may size them a bit smaller - I decided to go old school and wear socks. I am able to wear them for at least 1 hour - didn't try longer since my feet get too damp, when Shamans get somewhat annoying after 30min. So yeah - disregard advice about other shoes, Evolv Geshidos are the bomb! PS - the above advice is given with a healthy dose of sarcasm - unless someone knows what your foot looks like, their suggestions are somewhat pointless. Suggestions to climb through pain have passed expiration date, thankfully more "experts" are recognizing that proper fit of climbing shoe depends on matching foot shape to shoe shape. |
