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Comfortable climbing shoes

Original Post
Alex Holmann · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 113

Hey all. I am currently looking for recommendations for climbing shoes for easy sport and multi pitch climbs. I currently own some TC Pros as my only comfortable shoes. I have them sized so my feet are completely flat, however my issue is that I have absolutely no faith in their ability to climb faces. I feel equally comfortable in my TX2s when it comes to edging or smearing. I am aware that Katanas sized loosely may fit my bill but was looking for options that do not cost as much if possible. I was thinking I may prefer a softer shoe but am unaware of what the best options are

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236

Fit the tc pro's slightly tighter, or get some miura vs's with a slight toe curl. 

Chris Stocking · · SLC, UT · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 759

Here's another vote for just getting tighter TC pros. 

It seems like you either have very loose TC Pros or extremely tight TX2s. I also use a "sized for comfort" pair of TC Pros (I wear them with socks and my toes lay completely flat) and a pair of TX2s (sized down from what I'd typically use for a sneaker) and the TC Pros edge about 1000 times better than the TX2s. I'd have to size the TCs cartoonishly large for them to edge worse than a tight pair of TX2s.

Erik Strand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0

Yes it sounds like you prefer a softer shoe, like upmoccs. I don't recommend TC pros if you just plan to do sport climbing in them.

A lot of shoes take time to become comfy. I just got some unparallel upmoccs, and they're stupid comfortable now that they've broken in (they stretch up to a full size). They were already pretty nice to begin with, too

I highly recommend the upmoccs. They're my favorite shoe so far. Super sticky rubber that's really confidence inspiring for smearing and slab. Still great with edges though. Truly a slipper, but way better performance than the 5.10 moccs they were inspired by

Alex Holmann · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 113

Upon further consideration, the whole TX2 thing may have been a slight exaggeration. I do have very tight TX2s though and the lack of sensitivity from the TC Pros make it hard to enjoy climbing in them.

I think moccs are a great idea, any advice on sizing? Also would they be a viable option for longer multipitch?

Another thought I had were scarpa helixes. Anybody have experience with them?

Levi X · · Washington · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 63

If you want to edge well you should not be going for beginner shoes. Tc pros are great at edging when sized properly. If you want a budget tc pro option I would look at the finales. If you don't want to do la sportiva options I would take a look at the scarpa vapor V. If you don't like any of those options you should give more detail of what you are looking for and why you dont like the options people have listed so far. 

Alex Holmann · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jan 2019 · Points: 113

Finales sound like another great option that I will need to try on. I think I am at about the smallest size TC Pro that will give me all day comfort. That being said, maybe the smaller sizes would eventually become comfortable with some work. I was trying to also stay more in the realm of flatter shoes since the whole point would be for these to be for more chill climbs. Thanks for all the input so far from everyone.

PRRose · · Boulder · Joined Feb 2006 · Points: 0

Depends on what your definition of "easy" is, but I have been using Moccasyms since they came out for climbing up to 5.12 (even gym 5.13 in my fitter, younger days). A more technical, downturned shoe will get me a bouldering grade or two but it isn't worth the discomfort on routes.

I use two sizes. Tight (just barely scrunching my toes) is for single pitch, harder climbing.

I keep a slightly looser pair for multipitch (or just easy) routes (its a pair that has been resoled and have stretched out slightly). I have found that a pair of the thinnest silk liner socks improves all day comfort without sacrificing much performance. Even if I don't wear the socks when climbing, I can slip them on for the walk off and it makes a huge difference.

Sizing out of the box is hit or miss. I'll try on all the 9s at the store looking for the best fit.

slim · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2004 · Points: 1,103
Alex Holmann wrote:

Upon further consideration, the whole TX2 thing may have been a slight exaggeration. I do have very tight TX2s though and the lack of sensitivity from the TC Pros make it hard to enjoy climbing in them.

I think moccs are a great idea, any advice on sizing? Also would they be a viable option for longer multipitch?

Another thought I had were scarpa helixes. Anybody have experience with them?

if you are looking for edging, moccs probably aren't going to be the ticket.  most likely you are looking for katana laces, or something similar but with velcro.  then you can take them off at belays (let them dry out, let your feet chill, etc).

Victor K · · Denver, CO · Joined Jul 2003 · Points: 180

I think lace up shoes are the right idea, because you're not depending on the last shape so much. I'm in the low volume foot category, so Tenaya Masai and La Sportiva Mythos work for me. The Masai edge and smear like crazy, and they are comfortable. The Mythos are my choice for the Flatirons. I wear them with thin socks. Rock and Resole has an amazing array of shoes. Find the best fit.

Erik Strand · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 0
Alex Holmann wrote:

I think moccs are a great idea, any advice on sizing? Also would they be a viable option for longer multipitch?

Another thought I had were scarpa helixes. Anybody have experience with them?

Moccs are very commonly used for multipitch because of how comfy they are. They are also great at crack climbing if you run into some of that. I also think the upmoccs will do just fine edging for anything 5.9-5.10 and lower (depends on how sandbagged it is). 

They seem to be really close to a half size lower than my LS shoes, but not an entire half down. More like 2/5ths of a size down? Lol

I wear 41 for muiras (lace n velcro) and geniuses; and they are a pretty tight fit. I have 41 upmoccs and they are a tidbit bigger. I can wear them all day. My other shoes hurt like hell after about an hour. 

The katanas are a solid recommendation that would be better for edging. 

John Sigmon · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2019 · Points: 83

Tommy Caldwell did the Dawn Wall in TC Pros, I’m sure they face climb just fine

that guy named seb · · Britland · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 236
John Sigmon wrote:

Tommy Caldwell did the Dawn Wall in TC Pros, I’m sure they face climb just fine

Tommy was also loosing toe nails. The TC pro probably needs to be sized really tight (tighter than all of us are wearing them) to edge really really well, they a great edging shoe for the comfort and they're a great general all rounder but imo there are definitely better edging shoes out there.

Nate A · · SW WA · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0
John Sigmon wrote:

Tommy Caldwell did the Dawn Wall in TC Pros, I’m sure they face climb just fine

Considering the “TC” in TC pro stands for Tommy Caldwell I’m not exactly surprised by his shoe choice. He literally designed them; they probably fit him pretty well. 

Claudine Longet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

I'm amazed no one else has started using these yet

Up your game by a number with these. Start living in the 21st Century 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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