Best Hammer for Anti Vibration
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My hammer hand is pretty beat up. Between two bad bone exposing accidents on that hand and a nervous system disorder it can get pretty cranky. I hammer A LOT. I drive pins, bolts and hand drill a decent bit as well as swing a hammer for a living doing construction. I am being much more conservative with my hammer swings, switching hands and greatly limiting activities like hand drilling to as a only when necessary thing. My carpal tunnel gets wrecked after heavy nailing routes. Cleaning with a funk actually might be worse worse than nailing! I want to use the best hammer I could possibly use in terms of shock reduction/anti vibration. Seems like wood handle is the way to go but any pointers will be greatly recommended or if you have a synthetic handle you prefer. Like I said I want the best hammer for preserving my hands and wrists. Currently using an ancient Yosemite hammer that has literally driven more bolts and pins than one could ever keep track of as a prolific first ascentionist used this hammer for a long time before I did. She’s cracked and dry as a bone with roofing nails and a broken rurp shimming her out. She’s ready for retirement. I’ve heard other good tricks for vibrational reduction like tape, antivibe gloves, and even soaking the hammer in a bucket of water (thanks Hayden!) to make sure it’s hydrated. Tell me your best tips and hammer recommendations. I want to do this for the long run and would like to think I can keep climbing grade VI nail ups for many more years but it’s seeming less sustainable as time goes on. |
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You need a Dammer. |
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Before this post I have been leaning towards a Dammerr. I’ve seen that he has made a titanium based model at some point. Has anyone used this hammer? Stiletto, a builders hammer, seems to be manufacturing the best hammer for the working contractor trying to preserve some cartilage. One of their designs uses a titanium head and claims that it greatly reduces vibrations to the body. |
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Perhaps replacing your old handle would do the trick? Maybe get creative with the handle you put on it to ergonomically enhance the swing and vibration.. I’ve had good luck with shortening California framing handles a few inches and putting those on my climbing hammers. I would highly suggest using linseed oil rather than water on your wooden handles. |
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Wooden handles always seem the best to me. I did a decade of formsetting with variety of hammers; wood handles best for sure for balance and absorbing vibration (even if they come loose and break sometimes). Three decades of aid and a variety of hammers and same thing: wood handles by far the best. I'd suggest that the current BD hammer is as good as what's available, excellent balance and feel. Yvon Chouinard knew what he was doing. Simply replace it, like for like, I'll bet a new one will feel better, tighter, more springy, and absorb more vibration than an old one with loose-ish handle. The BD is maybe a tad lightweight. For heavier ones, I tried using a Dammerr but it felt a bit club-like to me. Part of the handle is cased in metal which maybe affects the balance and creates a more stiff feel. The old A5 hammers may be the best ever, if you can find one. A bit heavier than the BD and closely based on the classic Chouinard lineage. |
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All the best hammers have wooden handles, next best being fiberglass. |
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Dylan Valvo wrote: This last winter I hand drilled a couple of bolts with a Ti Dammerr. I climbed a new route with Banquo who brought one along for field testing. It was amazingly light. I can't say that I noticed the vibration characteristics, but I wasn't really paying attention to that aspect. We did keep track of the time it took to drill a 3/8" x 2" deep hole in granite and found the steel Dammerr to be a little faster. Fortunately my stances were not desperate, so the slightly extra drilling time was no big deal. This would be a nice hammer to bring along for new backcountry routes with very long approaches that may only need a few bolts or pins. |
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Kristoffer: when you post a tech tip I read it. I am replacing my old Chouinard handle with a curved framing handle. I always use linseed oil this tip I was given is a desperate measures trick. Never tried it so I don’t know much about it. Crusher: I’m gonna stick with the Chouinard as suggested although I think I’m gonna be cheap and try just a new handle. I’ve used a heavier hammer and can’t say I thought it made much difference unless hand drilling or pounding big iron in the desert. Speaking of desert.... never got an email back from you ;) I’m actually contemplating lightening my hammer a smidgen. Yet at the same time I want to try a Dammerr. If the grip doesn’t feel right I’ll throw it on a lathe. Bob: so you’re the partner Dan told me about toting two hammers up the route with. Cool little experiment. Dan gave me some really solid advice and “science” to back his statements. He has swayed me from the titanium for now and offered some great suggestion which I am going to take him up on. He’s a daggum hammer genius. I am also going to get in line for a Dammerr. Side note thanks for the response regarding my other post. I have never looked into biologics and have begun reading up. I also started a new “more serious” attempt at a AIP. |