Recommendations for Enchanted Rock

I'm planning on getting some climbs in while visiting Austin; got some reservations for Enchanted Rock. I'm looking for recommendations for some multi-pitch on the dome and also wondering if any of the climbs summit the feature. Also looking for rack recommendations since I'll be flying in and trying to pack reasonably. Thanks. --A 

Don't bother with multi-pitch. It's just an extra long slab. You want to visit the Tripple Cracks area, lead one of the routes or scramble up on the left slab and set a toprope. You get three cracks for one toprope and you are in shade. Also, climb Cave Crack while you are in that area. It is a splitter 5.6 hand crack.

Alternatively, Buzzard’s Roost is a longer approach but gives you a full-value day. There is a decent range, from Little Feat at 5.8, to a slabby sport 5.12 over by Eat and P.G. 13. And then there’s Fear of Flying, which you can easily TR if you don’t want to pack the #5 and #6.

It’s worth the hike out there. 

If you do climb one of the long slab multi-pitch routes, mark of the beast is probably the best. Just need draws for that one. And you can walk to the summit from the top if you want. 

As far as a rack - depends on what you want to do outside of the multi-pitch dome routes. Lots of things can be top-roped on bolts or with a small rack. Most climbs are short and .4 or.5-3 or 4 sized cams and a set of nuts will get you up a ton of stuff out there or at least set a top rope anchors. maybe doubles in fingers-hand sizes if you want to lead some of the 5.9/10ish cracks. 

I'm also a buzzard's roost fan. Little Feat/Texas crude/FOF is a great morning or afternoon

Bring tape - rock can be sharp.

Thanks for all the recs from the comments and PM's. Much appreciated. 

I really enjoyed the Kraken too.  It’s a bit better bolted if you’re nervous about runouts.  Mark of the Beast has a crux right after the first pitch belay, which can be a little nervewracking.  Definitely do Cave Crack!  It’s a super long pitch that basically gets you to the summit from inside a cave.  Bring lots of bigger gear - 3s and 4s.

Brad Ray wrote:

Alternatively, Buzzard’s Roost is a longer approach but gives you a full-value day. There is a decent range, from Little Feat at 5.8, to a slabby sport 5.12 over by Eat and P.G. 13. And then there’s Fear of Flying, which you can easily TR if you don’t want to pack the #5 and #6.

It’s worth the hike out there. 

Agree with all of the above!

Cave Crack is a must if you have the time. The Motorboat area has some fun short warm ups as well, and is right around the corner.

BigFeet wrote:

Cave Crack is a must if you have the time. The Motorboat area has some fun short warm ups as well, and is right around the corner.

Just did the Jack Knife/Cave Crack combo yesterday, super chill way to start the day. We came out of the cave and hung a TR on the Orange Peel anchors and did everything we could over there. All in all it was an enjoyable outing that can be easy or hard, depending on what you’re looking for, and you could easily add Triple Cracks into the day if that fits what you want to do.