Mountain Project Logo

Scarpa Chimera comparison with scarpa Mago and Drago

Original Post
Aaron G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

Hello, i own a pair of Dragos that I love and a pair of Mago also.

I would like to understand how do the chimera compares to the two...i have never been able to try it, but i expect it to be quite similar to Mago in feeling.....am i wrong? How stiffer really is it compared to Dragos?

Anyone that uses both Mago and Chimera can give me some advices?

Thanks

Doug Chism · · Arlington VA · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 55

I have climbed in both the Chimera and Drago and for me, the Chimera was quite different and is my go-to shoe right now. The laces allow my wide forefoot to expand much better, and for me the toe was less pointy, making them more comfortable by far since my 2nd toe is as long as my first. Also the heel is deeper, felt more locked on and delivered more power through the toe. I feel this shoe does everything well, it edges better than the Drago, yet still smears very well. It pulls great on overhangs. It is still a soft shoe, its not an edging shoe per say, but a fantastic sport climbing shoe especially on steeper terrain. 

I saw they were redesigning them and I am not happy, I really like them the way they are. I guess I waited too long to try them because I thought they were just a lace up Drago, which for me they were not. 

Never tried the Mago, it looks interesting. 

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651

I have used drago and chimera extensively. Have not used the mago as I liked the old red/yellow testsrossa (which the Mago was an evolution of, if someone is about to pull up different manufacture card, look up Heinz).

chimera has a blunter/club shape to toe box than drago. There is a stiffening piece under toes and in heel of chimera. It’s definitely a bit stiffer, but still a very soft shoe. On small edging heavy long vertical routes I’ll still reach for testsrossas, they drive far more power through the big toe. On steeper sport or smearing heavy routes I’ll use the chimera.

dragos are stupid soft, smear like none other. Super soft heel deforms around any feature and stays put, they are cheating when it comes to toe and heel hooks. Use them bouldering and training in the gym. Actually have thrown them in for hard friction slab and granite finger cracks too. Hurts like hell on cracks, but the rand is stickier than others so a torque into a pin scar sticks great.

on the scarpa spectrum from soft to stiff it seems the line up is

Furia S > drago > booster > mago > boostic

Slim Chuffer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2017 · Points: 0

I've never tried on the Mago's but I love the Drago's (mainly bouldering) and didn't like the Chimera's as much. I didn't find the heel much better than the Drago's. Also, there is a bump under the end of your toes in the Chimera's and I felt like it didn't work getting more power into my big toe. Maybe I needed to size up a half size but I haven't as I mostly boulder and love the Drago's (if I need a soft shoe) and use the Instinct's if I need something stiffer.

Aaron G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

I also love the Dragos, but outside i can use them only at a crag with only overhanging and roofs and is sandstone ... I love the Dragos stickiness and smearing abilities..but i sometimes feel that I lack a little bit of toe support..i can edge in Dragos but of course it is not the best....i was thinking about getting a pair of chimeras for outside, but i can't try them and i am not really able to imagine how they are...i am afraid they are too stiff compared to Dragos and loosing the smearing power of Drago, or i am afraid they are too soft and overlapping with Dragos... that's why I was asking a comparison with mago also, that i own...

Thank you for your advices up to now...still trying to have an idea of the feeling of this shoe

Nick Drake · · Kent, WA · Joined Jan 2015 · Points: 651
Todd Berlier wrote:

yes?

The instincts both kill my big toe so I forget they exist :)

Aaron G · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2021 · Points: 0

I ended up buying chimeras...

I can say they fit my foot really well, even better than Dragos.

They feel slightly stiffer than Dragos, but smeary in the same way...just little bit more support in the tip of toes, for slightly better casual edging..

They are like Dragos a monster in overhanging and roofs routes..lack the power for extended vertical terrain but compared to Dragos can stand more casual edging.

I sized them like all my other scarpa shoes.. tight but not the smallest I can get in..i didn't want to loose their smearing ability.

In my experience , between the shoes I tried from softer to stiffer/more powerful:

Drago > Chimera > Instinct Vsr > Mago

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Climbing Gear Discussion
Post a Reply to "Scarpa Chimera comparison with scarpa Mago and…"

Log In to Reply
Welcome

Join the Community! It's FREE

Already have an account? Login to close this notice.