Best non-TC Pro Crack Shoes

I am in the market for some new crack climbing shoes for this season, but I don't want to pull the trigger on some TC Pro's since there is supposed to be an update this fall/winter on the shoe. Asking for input from the community on a good crack shoe that is preferably less than 130 bucks. My old mythos keeps slipping while stemming or balancing on small crimps, so I am def looking for something sticky, reliable and with a little less give than the mythos traditionally have.

EDIT:

The number of people who said go for the TC pros, mentioned that updates aren't always an upgrade, and the fact that TC pros were 25% off on backcountry this morning helped make my decision. I drank the kool-aid, joined the cult, and look forward to getting them in for next week's adventures.

I'm confused. You're looking for a good crack-climbing shoe because your current pair is giving you trouble when you're working techniques that aren't exactly germane to crack climbing?

Get some Katanas on sale sized for cracks (flat toes). They are my favorite crack climbing shoe.

Mitchell Chahalis wrote:

I am in the market for some new crack climbing shoes for this season, but I don't want to pull the trigger on some TC Pro's since there is supposed to be an update this fall/winter on the shoe. Asking for input from the community on a good crack shoe that is preferably less than 130 bucks. My old mythos keep slipping while stemming or balancing on small crimps, so I am def looking for something sticky, reliable and with a little less give than the mythos traditionally have.

The TC Pro will shine at this.  Has proper toe box construction and is flat for crack climbing, and a sharp edge and stiff sole for edging on small crimps.  Your mythos are a great crack shoe, and as you've noticed has a very blunt edge and floppy sole which isn't very good on crimps, but will excel on slab/smears (compared to the TC Pro).  

In the LaSportiva range, the Finale is a pretty close version of a low top TC Pro, and it's cheap. 

I own two other "TC Pro" competitor shoes. 5.10 Grandstones and Butora Mantra (lowtop version of the Altrua).  Of those two, I like the Butora's better.  My grandstone's soles are too soft, they fell apart quickly, and they make my feet smell like a toxic waste dump.

Paul Morrison wrote:

I'm confused. You're looking for a good crack-climbing shoe because your current pair is giving you trouble when you're working techniques that aren't exactly germane to crack climbing?

It depends on the route.  Some cracks climbs will have lots of small edges where a TCPro would be better, some are smaller cracks where you're just smearing outside the crack or on the crack with a pinky toe rand smear.  But it sounds like the OP needs a TC Pro, but doesn't want to pony up the money. 

You could get the mythos resoled with a board midsole from yosemite bum. I’m pretty sure anyone with mythos has to smear edges as I have the same issue and plan to get the board resole. You could probably spend the extra for the edge rubber and still end up paying $75 instead of new shoes.  

I can’t believe they still make Mythos.

BryanOC wrote:

It depends on the route.  Some cracks climbs will have lots of small edges where a TCPro would be better, some are smaller cracks where you're just smearing outside the crack or on the crack with a pinky toe rand smear.  But it sounds like the OP needs a TC Pro, but doesn't want to pony up the money. 

That's exactly why I am in the market. Edging in the mythos is like edging in a loose flip flop. 

I know TC pros are the go-to but I would hate to drop the money on them this spring when the next update they drop is the fall is (allegedly) a significant upgrade to the current design. I would rather use something cheaper but still better than mythos for this season and then upgrade to the next TCs.

I second katanas. Got mine on sale for around $100. Basically a low top tc pro.

Chris Fedorczak wrote:

Get some Katanas on sale sized for cracks (flat toes). They are my favorite crack climbing shoe.

This is not the first time I have heard this. Sounds like it's worth my time investigating.

Mythos are house slippers with climbing rubber. You want tc pros. You won't go back. I was skeptical for years. Now im in cult. Drink the koolaid

Scarpa maestros

I love my new grandstones 1/2 size down from street, took some breaking in but they edge fine and are amazing on stems & cracks of all sizes. Definitely softer than XS Edge and the TC Pro/Katana platform tho for micro edging. 

I just can't stand the TC Pro tongue and they feel like hooves on my feet. I started trad & crack climbing in katanas and they are great but high top would be nice. I got my katanas resoled in Stealth C4 rubber and they are even better now, traded a little edging for more friction. 

I don't have the Evolv General shoes but considered getting some to try out.

Lots of good shoes for crack.  Very fit dependent for many people.    One man's comfortable is another man's agony.   

Katanas are excellent, a similar shoe that has a bit wider last is the scarpa vapor lace.   I know some people love TCs but I find them dated and hard to fit properly.   (Stretch a ton)

+ They struggle in thinner cracks. 

Mitchell Chahalis wrote:

I know TC pros are the go-to but I would hate to drop the money on them this spring when the next update they drop is the fall is (allegedly) a significant upgrade to the current design. I would rather use something cheaper but still better than mythos for this season and then upgrade to the next TCs.

Honestly, I love my TCs so much I’m tempted to buy an “older” pair right now just in case the updated versions suck.

You people need to start toe crimping in your mythos

Butora alturas treat me well. You can pick some up for a decent price too

Colonel Mustard wrote:

I can’t believe they still make Mythos.

I can.  It's the climbing shoe for people who don't want to wear actual climbing shoes.  I sell a ton to that demographic.

The Tenaya Masai is a solid choice for sure.  Not quite as good as the TC Pro but pretty close, and not as expensive.  They retail for $155 at the moment.  They're far far better than Mythos.

Mitchell Chahalis wrote:

That's exactly why I am in the market. Edging in the mythos is like edging in a loose flip flop. 

I know TC pros are the go-to but I would hate to drop the money on them this spring when the next update they drop is the fall is (allegedly) a significant upgrade to the current design. I would rather use something cheaper but still better than mythos for this season and then upgrade to the next TCs.

I have not always found that changes/upgrades to a shoe are actually an improvement.  I had Kaukalators many years ago and when they updated them to the mega they were definitely not an improvement. I found the same when they changed the syncro to the focus.  The TC pros are an excellent shoe in their current form.  Hopefully the update doesn't screw them up.  If they fit you well I wouldn't see any reason not get the current shoe.  In fact I'll probably reach out to some friends at sportiva to see what the changes are and probably buy another pair to keep until the ones I have now wear out.  I love the current model and I'm not sure what they would improve

Paul Morrison wrote:

I'm confused. You're looking for a good crack-climbing shoe because your current pair is giving you trouble when you're working techniques that aren't exactly germane to crack climbing?

Ah yes, keeping my feet jammed in a finger crack up a dihedral makes much more sense than smearing or edging............