soloing liberty Ridge

Hello fellow alpinist,

Thinking about soloing liberty ridge since I don't have a partner who is down for this route. Nor do I want to rope up with a random from mtn pro partner find (No offense )  since its a serious route and You kinda have to trust your partner with your life. Ive soloed 5.6/5.7 before and I can lead WI5

Ive done rainier before (kautz route) 

climbed shasta (easily)

Climbed whitney (twice)

climbed the full Exum (Teton)

Climbed GrossGlockner (tallest point in Austria) with ease  

Flashed the Petit grepon (No chalk)

Not saying 'I'd actually solo liberty ridge but definitely entertaining the idea of going fast and LIGHT and soloing it in a day. I just want to get some feedback from the Climbing community/ open up the discussion because action or no action, this would be a fun debate especially with all the mopro trolls out there hahaha!!. Maybe some beta because I'm sure theres plenty of early season backcountry skiers/ car2carers that have done it in a day. 

Cheers!? have fun with it!   

I’d suggest you call the ranger station and tell them your interests and your experience level. They are the ones that issue the solo permits and will be able to give you practical and unbiased feedback. 

The problem with the Liberty Ridge is that you have to cross terrain like this before you get to the ridge. Not sure about you but I'd prefer to be roped up for these conditions.

Maybe some beta because I'm sure theres plenty of early season backcountry skiers/ car2carers that have done it in a day. 

If you lead WI 5 you'll be very comfortable on the technical pitches. It does feel different with a 40lb pack though. 

Your greatest risk is on the carbon glacier, crossing the bergschrund to gain LB, and rock fall around thumb rock. You're really rolling the dice in these sections. 

I don't think that many people car-2-car LB but it does happen. I'd plan at least a bivy at thumb rock positioning you for cold temps in the morning. 

As others have stated, even with a partner you end up soloing most the entire route. I don't see much advantage to the solo unless you want to do this for yourself. 

Soloing the Ridge will not be your problem. In my experience roping on the Ridge is worthless unless you are driving snow stakes, or you hit the Ridge when it is hard ice and can place screws. Yes there are a few moves when roping with a reliable anchor may be nice, but you are soloing most of the time anyway.

Your real problem will be the crevasses on the approach and comeing down from the Summit. I remember getting on to the Carbon was tricky and just below the Ridge proper. Then of course there is the decent down from the summit into the Corridor which can be a maze of crevasses.

Get a partner if you can.

Only done the lib ridge once, on the first day or two of June. We made a leisurely start the afternoon of the first day, camped on the carbon, and then took it in a push from the carbon down to schurman. The next morning we glissaded back to the car.

I don't recall the carbon being particularly difficult to navigate; seems manageable solo. As others have noted, the significant portions for us were attaining the ridge from the carbon (crevasse crossing) and the bergschrund at the top. Those were the only places we really roped up. We did rope up for the carbon and descending the emmons because we had a rope and a partner, but the emmons was a very well packed in trail down the glacier. It would've been difficult to screw it up (possible, as there were a couple bridges and certainly plenty of crevasses to walk next to). 

I'd be wary of Thumb Rock. We brewed up there for a few minutes and that seemed to be as long as we wanted to stick around and chance more rock fall. We were happy not to bivy there. As for a 40lb pack, if you commit to car-to-car, your pack should probably be considerably lighter than that ;)

Re: in a day, have you done any of those climbs you mentioned in a day? What's the longest you've been on your feet in a single push? What's your current sustainable all day pace? I likely wouldn't make this my first single day route, but if you've gone for 20 hours before without issue, it's probably reasonable. I'd definitely want to be out of crevasse land and near Schurman by hour 18 at the latest. 

^Agree with Michael.  Best to just buddy solo this. Buddy up for the approach, climb separately from thumb to the Cap.  Ideally re-rope up for some of the descent.   Crevasse danger isn’t over once you’re up on Liberty Cap, heading to summit, and descent.   The actual climbing part is the least risky part. 

Nice flex. 

People die from rockfall at the thumb camp.  Alternative rest spot might be better.

As a tangential question, how easy is it to get a solo permit? What sort of experience are they looking for? I am not very interested in dealing with permit systems, or climbing with others, but I probably want to climb Rainier in the next couple years.

Maybe the real question is how do they enforce the permit system?  

It's very easy technically. But things are better shared. Get a partner.

Hi Matthew,  The LR rating doesn't capture the seriousness of the route.  We found the crux was climbing off the glacier onto to the initial rock band.  The glacier crossing is probably your biggest risk with huge consequences.  I'd say the California/Wyoming/Colorado outings are completely irrelevant compared to a glaciated PNW volcano.  It took me a while to appreciate that.  The weather is very different as well, so trying to do car-to-car without much gear greatly decreases your margin of safety.

Perhaps read some of these mishaps and assess your comfort with the risk.
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212989/Fall-Into-Crevasse-Traveling-Unroped-on-a-Glacier
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13199300402/Fall-in-Crevasse-Unroped-Climbing-Alone-Inattention-Alberta-Rocky-Mountains-Mount-Athabasca

It will be more fun a with buddy as everyone said.   I hope you have a fruitful and long journey regardless of what you choose to do.

-Craig

J C wrote:

As a tangential question, how easy is it to get a solo permit? What sort of experience are they looking for? I am not very interested in dealing with permit systems, or climbing with others, but I probably want to climb Rainier in the next couple years.

Maybe the real question is how do they enforce the permit system?  

I’ve seen rangers stopping soloists and asking for permits. I don’t know what happens if you don’t have one. I’ve never seen rangers stopping groups (on Rainier) for regular climbing permits. 

like others have said, the crux of the route can be navigating and gaining access to the ridge proper. lots of objective hazards you can't control, and being on a rope with a partner is a huge mitigation strategy.

i was on the ridge last year when a group of 4 skiers were attempting to climb and ski down the ridge. 1 didn't make it...

Given what you have listed you are not ready to climb LR with a partner let alone solo it. The rangers would not issue you a solo permit.

If you can not find a partner, go solo some routes on Hood and get some more experience on glaciated hills.

Well it depends, would you have On- sighted the Petit Grepon if you had chalk?

Well, yes, the odds of getting issued the permit are small, but the only reason I’d surmise he’s not ready is simply the dreaded Catch 22 of asking the question here on MP.  The nail in the coffin, lol.  

But to be helpful and provide some slim hope, OP needs to show what methods and techniques he’ll employ to safeguard himself over crevassed terrain for the permit. Most methods and equipment (sleds, skis, etc) being difficult for a soloist to employ on a carryover route like Liberty Ridge. Consider skis (if you’re a totally solid skier and can climb with them), multi-band radio (aircraft channels) if you’re licensed, and carry pen flares/smoke, and only travel the terrain at night when snow is firmer - but has its own hazards. Gotta weigh it all.
make it sound like you have it wired and thought out....

Personally I’d ask forgiveness rather than permission.  

Or follow the sound advice and partner up

Derek DeBruin wrote:

We did rope up for the carbon and descending the emmons because we had a rope and a partner, but the emmons was a very well packed in trail down the glacier. It would've been difficult to screw it up (possible, as there were a couple bridges and certainly plenty of crevasses to walk next to). 

IMHO solo glacier travel is a total Russian roulette despite many doing it with much unwarranted bravado.  

I learned this while roped up on a two-person team on the Emmons glacier many years ago.  While leading us along the wide, heavily tracked path on the glacier, I fell through the snow surface into a hidden 100'-deep death drop.  It was a completely unexpected 25' free-fall into a crevasse. I hung mid-air via my rope and prussiked out.  Our two-person crevasse rescue practice the previous day saved us.  I had previously climbed on Rainier maybe 8 times and summitted 6 times via Kautz, DC, Emmons, and LR (attempt).  My TR is on CascadeClimbers.

Kudos to you for even having the courage to contemplate a LR solo.

I have climbed the Petit (with chalk) and failed on LR.  The one has nothing to do with the other.

Also, the Petit is 5.8 (or maybe 5.9, can't remember).  On-sighting is not really worth mentioning.

Mark Pilate wrote:

OP needs to show what methods and techniques he’ll employ to safeguard himself over crevassed terrain for the permit.

My recommendation, per Lonnie Dupre:

https://www.lonniedupre.com/single-post/2017/01/05/Cold-Hunter-One-Solo-Crevasse-Safety

“Ultimately, I went with a 13’2” aluminum pipe weighing in at 7.7lbs. It comprises of two sections, secured together in the centre with a metal dowel and locking pin. This design allows the poles to fit in a ski bag as checked luggage. This robust system should keep me above the snow. “

Joshua Tree Runner wrote:

IMHO solo glacier travel is a total Russian roulette despite many doing it with much unwarranted bravado.  

I learned this while roped up on a two-person team on the Emmons glacier many years ago.  While leading us along the wide, heavily tracked path on the glacier, I fell through the snow surface into a hidden 100'-deep death drop.  It was a completely unexpected 25' free-fall into a crevasse. I hung mid-air via my rope and prussiked out.  Our two-person crevasse rescue practice the previous day saved us.  I had previously climbed on Rainier maybe 8 times and summitted 6 times via Kautz, DC, Emmons, and LR (attempt).  My TR is on CascadeClimbers.

Kudos to you for even having the courage to contemplate a LR solo.

When I did LR we roped up to get on and off the thing, but otherwise soloed the ridge itself. Since I had a partner, we also roped up for the Carbon and Emmons. I'm not sure I would go solo the LR given the approach and descent hazards, but having done it already I don't really have the desire to do so anyway. I agree there can be some real bravado around unroped glacier travel, but I don't think it's altogether a terrible proposition, especially late summer/early fall when cracks are obvious. (Of course, that's not the season for the LR).

In general, I was simply trying to offer an honest appraisal of the route without necessarily placing a judgment on the OP's personal risk tolerance or prior experience. I've soloed a number of things and head from the trailhead by myself regularly. But that's me, my choice, and my risk acceptance. And the objective has to be worth it to me. I can't make that decision for the OP, and I don't know enough about them to say otherwise. I was quite grateful to be on the recieving end of similar advice from Rolo regarding a foray in Patagonia some years ago, so unless someone specifically asks, "Am I ready?" I try to model that same response he gave to me: no judgment, just a simple assessment of conditions, options, route beta, etc. 

@Matthew:

Partner or not, if you want to go light, you need to have the ability to catch a solid weather window. We had an amazing forecast and brought 30L ish packs and no tent. We also had the fitness to match.