Tips for managing patellar tendonitis (jumper's knee) for bouldering?
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Anyone have tips for managing patellar tendonitis when bouldering? Obviously downclimb as much as possible, but if there are warmups, stretches, or exercises that work for you please share! |
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This is something I’ve battled with a lot. My knees are shot and landing is a real problem. The thing I’ve found that helps is to keep the leg muscles strong. Regular leg strength exercises are the only thing that keep landing, and well...just walking...manageable for me. I do also downclimb when possible to make sure drops are as small as possible. |
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If you haven't and can, see a physical therapist. That helped me a ton. My stuff might not be as targeted for patellar tendonitis, because in addition to that, I decked and created a whole bunch of other knee and ankle issues that I went to a PT to address. But I've had way less flare ups of the tendonitis issues since incorporating these into my regular routine. I got a huge set of ankle and hip exercises to increase knee stability. Example of ankles and hips (I like the ones using bandresistance) Rolling out my leg regularly gave me a lot of quick relief after workouts and seemed to reduce future issues - roll out thigh above knee on front, back, and outer side. My PT had me do some patella mobility exercises - relax your leg as much as possible and gently move the patella in every direction with your hand. |
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csproul wrote: I'm curious what strength exercises you do when the tendonitis is flaring up, particularly for your quads. Hamstrings and calves are no problem, but anything that involves bending the knee more than about 45 degrees under extension resistance just irritates it, so deadlifts, squats, lunges are all out. I have been doing steps and low-angle extensions, but I'm wondering if there's something better. |
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William K wrote: i still do body weights squats, lunges deadlifts, all low weight or BW. etc. if it hurts, I keep them shallow. Sumo squats are a lot less painful than the regular variety. I try to do them even if it hurts, it’s definitely a balance of a small-med amount of exercises it not too much. Doing nothing and it hurts, do too much and it hurts. But mine has long progressed past the tendinitis and now I’ve lost patellar cartilage so the tendons are less of a concern now. |
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Cornelius Yukon wrote: Recommended stretches / exercises? |