TFCM Award - Climbing Movie Reviews
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Actually watched this in the van on a climbing trip earlier this month so I'll write it up as well Movie: First Ascent: The Complete Series (2010) Alone On The Wall: I mean, come on, this is just a classic. Honnold doing what Honnold does, soloing huge walls and upping the ante constantly. It's actually always amusing for me to see Honnold of the late naughts compared to the Honnold now of 2020 and how much tamer he was back then. He's really come into his own character now and, at least for myself, makes him a lot more likeable. Anyways, my palms pretty much still haven't stopped sweating from watching this - and I thought my solo of Tenaya in approachies was hot shit. Patagonia Promise: This was a great, touching film. While there isn't a wild amount of spectacular climbing going on, it was moving, interesting, and the climbing it did have was fairly exciting. A good reminder of the heart of the climbing community and those that make it up. The Impossible Climb: Honestly, for me, this might be worth the price of admission alone. I'm pretty sad this film wasn't even longer - Sharma on Jumbo Love. What an absolutely insane line this is, and I don't think it does a great job of communicating just how much of an undertaking it was (despite being VERY clear that it was a massive undertaking). Phenomenal climbing, the GOAT absolutely putting out, and an absolutely awe inspiring line. What more could you want? Point of No Return: Man, it's been a while since I've seen a climbing film like this. I won't spoil it for anyone who doesn't know the story, but this one really got to me. Overall a stand out in a series of stand outs Brother's Wild: Timmy and Sean O'Neill showcase what they've got on ascending some crazy mountains together. While it's super impressive that Sean was able to make his way up El Cap and Peak 6000 while paralyzed from the waist down - the shear amount of pull ups he had to do aren't really what make this for me. It's how much the brothers were willing to work for and with each other - I'm blown away by the sacrifice they made for this experience together. Not a ton of exciting climbing in the film obviously but a good take on the different forms stoke for climbing can manifest itself in. Fly Or Die: I can't speak to the significance of this piece when it came out, because I have no idea what that timeline actually looked like, but I swear to god Sender films used the exact same free basing footage for like 9 films. While it's cool, at this point I'm burnt out on it having seen it so many times before and still think Potter is a lunatic - and honestly while it's astounding, it slightly pales against the fact that you saw Honnold literally free solo bigger formations at comparable grades earlier in this collection. Summary: Some super high highs and not-that-low of lows. Definitely worth checking out for the films on Jumbo Love and the beginning of the real legend of Honnold if you haven't already seen it. If you've already seen that and Fly or Die, maybe don't rush to get this one necessarily. |
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Movie: On Sight (2008) Realistically I watched this film because it was the one I had on hand short enough for the time I had available to watch it - but it turns out this is what I imagine is a great precursor to watching Hard Grit which I'm sure is going to make me shit my pants. The name does an excellent job of describing what this film is about - hard, scary, onsight climbing. This will be a shorter review than normal because I don't have a ton to say about this movie except that I really highly recommend it. It was way more engaging and higher quality production value than expected, it's fairly fresh content-wise, or at least it was to me, as I haven't seen a ton of british climbing films. The people involved were definitely characters and overall it was a fun time. It was a breath of fresh air to watch people climb moderately hard stuff in cool style rather than watching a crusher project the same 20 ft stretch of rock for an hour. Summary: Exciting, engaging, and absolutely nuts. A couple of less-exciting sections but the lows are still pretty high. Get ready to engage your sweaty palms. |
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Movie: The Alpinist (2021) Went to the premiere today with high expectations - the trailer looked phenomenal, and the snippet they showed in Reel Rock 14 has been ingrained in my head since I first saw it. I'm generally not big on mountaineering/alpinist movies, but this one seemed like it was going to be great, and wow did it deliver. I didn't know much about Marc-André Leclerc going into the film beyond - to put it crassly - that he had died. I didn't know his goofy personality, the stature of his feats, nor the indent he left on the alpine and climbing world. This film wasn't just about the accomplishments, the vistas, the sends - it was about the person. The way of seeing the world through Marc-André's eyes. The hunger to do more, see more, and climb more. It went so far beyond "local crusher continues to crush" and instead got back to what climbing was at its roots. The film is mesmerizing - the climbing sequences are gripping, the shots are jaw dropping, and the characters immediately feel familiar and engaging. I've never really understood the allure of soloing. I didn't understand the idea of it being enjoyable because it demands perfection, or because it is the peak of execution on rock - send or die. I didn't get the enjoyment due to the added risk and exposure, or the freedom of the burden of rope and the management that comes with it. The only way soloing ever made sense to me was listening to Peter Croft talking about it on an episode of Climbing Gold a while back. When asked about soloing the Rostrum for the first time, he said it was because "it was the coolest thing [he] could imagine doing in [his] whole life - at the time" (Chapter 1, 23:43). This movie, and Marc-André, were the personification of that quote. Overall, this movie provided a visceral reaction in me and the rest of the audience in the theater with me. The climbing scenes often had folks squirming in their seats or wiping their palms on their pants, the scenes with Brette had folks cozying up and smiling, and his death had the majority of the theater audibly sobbing. It's a beautiful film in every sense of the word, and I imagine I'll be spending a few days continuing to digest it as well - and am heartily looking forward to its digital release so I can revisit it as often as I like. I highly encourage you to see it in theaters if you're able, and to fully engross yourself in it, as that's the way this film is best experienced. Engaged, and in the present - just like Marc-André. Conclusion: Moving. Beautiful. Worth every second spent watching and every second spent reflecting on it. |
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Watch fine lines! I'm interested in what your take away will be, especially with your comment about "Potter is a lunatic"... Steph Davis has a side of his story that really hits for me. I didn't think it was that great of a movie, movie wise, but man the small part Steph Davis has in it where she explains judging a line worth taking and understanding a path that just takes you closer and closer to danger isn't a great idea.... Phew... Knowing her history, and how her life has played out, and to have her say that... It was just powerful to me. Looking forward to your review. |
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Movie: Monday Mojo: Best Of (2007) Boy - been a while since I've watched a bouldering-only film. Let's get into it! A Land of Stone: Wow - there's some really unbelievable looking lines here that you don't really see featured too often in some of the bigger films. A young Cedar Wright, fairly reasonable bouldering grades being hit, a decent soundtrack and some truly stellar stellar lines actually do a good job of getting viewers excited to get on some real rock. Dark Waters: Brief - and holy hell this might be the youngest D Woods I've ever seen in a video. Entertaining, feature D Woods eating shit on some ice in Clear Creek - a very cool problem, and there's pretty much zero fat to this short. Just quick stoke for sure. Here's the Featured Boulder Ghost Dance/Mt Evans: Wow this one is hilariously frustrating - Steph Foster climbing her hardest boulder to date, which took the longest she's ever spent on a problem to that point - which, in her words, was "5 or 6 goes". Good, quick short. Featured Boulder. The Mt. Evans section is super quick, not much to discuss there Payoff: D Wood appears again to remind everyone that he doesn't age and will be leading the bouldering world for the next 2-3 millennia in this Rocklands short focusing on Andy Raether. Andy's no-nonsense approach to the route and sending is unique - very little fanfare and presented mostly without comment for a cool problem. Scream Part 1: The videographer/director responsible for most of these videos makes an appearance - Chuck Fryberger shows the development he'd been doing while living in South Africa, with a teaser of a cool project and some significant lowballs to work on after an injury scare. Problems look phenomenal, stoke is high, this is a great short. Scream Part 2: Church Fryberger returns on Ray Of Light (V13) at Rocklands, as well as an absurdly scenic FA of "The Mandela" and "A Splash Of Red" - showing his creative eye extends beyond just filmmaking, but also to boulder FAs. Another great short. thaw: D Woods visits agains this time with Sarah Marvez, in Penitente CO. Boy, this thing is pure 2000s right here. Dramatic vocal overlay, slow-mo thirst cam of D Woods, etc. This one is pretty short and not terribly interesting, but has some cool routes. The Big Picture: Turns out "Monday Mojo: Best Of" in the mid 2000s was just "What did D Woods climb this week?". This is mostly an extension to thaw and the same feedback applies. The Power to Serve: Andy Raether and Ben Scott on some stellar looking FoCo routes - notably, The Blade as an extremely scenic route. Rock Music: Stephanie Foster, Thomas Betterton, Marcelo Montalva crushing at Dinosaur Mountain in Boulder. Fairly rapid fire - not overly interesting Hueco: Hayden Miller & Sarah Marvez cruising through some Hueco routes, again, presented with mostly zero comment. Hooked: Sarah Marvez finishing the film out where we started - on some Rocklands moderates and projects. Conclusion: Some highlights but it really is just a collection of shorts - I kind of started checking out after Scream Part 2 and then really at Rock Music. That being said - there's some unbelievable looking lines here that I've never seen documented elsewhere, which is especially exciting since many of them were close to me at the front range. You'd likely be safe to skip this, but it's pretty cool for front range or rocklands folks. |
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Movie: 14 Peaks (2021) I watched this movie over a week ago but it's stuck with me enough that I figured I need to write a review on it. 14 Peaks is the story of Nims Purja and his ascent of the 14 8k meter peaks in 7 months. An absolutely astonishing accomplishment that articles, videos, and this movie still fail to really communicate the gravity of. I'll be honest - coming into this movie I wasn't sure how I felt about Nims. I hadn't kept up with him or his story much, but I'd seen hot takes here and there that gave me an overall mixed impression of him as a person and the legitimacy of his claims. If you're in a similar position, I highly recommend dropping your guard and watching this film. Not only is the cinematography absolutely beautiful, but the movie gives a great look into Nims the person, his values, and his drive for this project. The rescues, the climbs, the overcrowding and the permit issues - this movie is slammed with interesting storylines and inspiring achievements. Really the biggest negative of the film is how short it is - my ideal world would have had this be an 8 episode miniseries with each peak getting its own episode - or perhaps a 4 or 5 episode miniseries since a few of the peaks were chained together in a continuous push (also ridiculous btw). So much of the actual climbing was briefed over which is likely better for the larger audience but a bit of a bummer for the climbing crowd. Conclusion: A beautiful, engaging film catered more towards a general audience than a climbing one. Highly worth watching and I hope more of the footage gets released in the future so we can see more of this beautiful achievement. |
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Tal M wrote: Couldn’t agree more, Tal. I thought the film touched on all the right aspects of overcrowding in the outdoors, battles of ethics and style, and what a badass Nims is. But I also agree that it would’ve been amazing as a mini series, with more in depth discussions of subjects like style and permitting and overcrowding. Seems like it was made in a style more accessible to non climbers. |
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It's been a while, but I'm back. Movie: Reel Rock 16 (2022) Bridge Boys: I enjoyed this film. Honestly, it's kind of just a slightly higher production quality version of their normal youtube videos - just kind of a buddy buddy movie of two people doing some absurd climbing feat just because one got hooked on it for some reason. It's pretty much the story of my climbing career ignoring the fact that I'm a dogshit climber instead. It ran a bit long - I think a few minutes shorter and it would have been a bit better - but I thought it was one of the stronger features this year Barefoot Charles: I wanted to like this, I really did - but this just did not hold my attention as a long form piece. The fact of the matter is that Charles just isn't much of a character in and of himself which means he's not a phenomenal selection for such character heavy films as the Reel Rocks. Plus - what was going on with the audio mixing there? You heard every single fingernail/toenail scratch on the rock the entire time. It was super unsettling. I mean - watch it once to be amazed/disgusted by his foot crimp strength - but good luck paying attention the entire time on subsequent watches Big Things To Come: Another decent film - I think the climbing footage was good, and there was a story about AJ - but it just felt very disjointed. AJ made it super clear that her identity in the LGBTQIA+ world is a huge part of her - but in the film, it just kind of felt like a force narrative? It felt like there was almost two mutually exclusive narratives going on - The Swarm, and her coming out - and they didn't really mesh or play super well together IMO. That being said - I think this film also does a good job of representing what climbing is like for so many folks - AJ was trying to do the FFA of the swarm - got beat, had other things happening, etc. She came back and eventually sent and it still meant a ton to her. It's just a reminder that climbing for personal goals rather than doing things explicitly to impress other people is a healthy approach to climbing for the vast majority of its population Cuddle: Ok - wow, I never thought I'd say this: Wasn't a huge fan of an Alex & Tommy movie. I loved the addition of Adam into this film as he's a super likable character and such a good dichotomy from namely Alex in terms of how he interacts with the camera and in the interviews. But man - between this movie and Alex hosting - he just seems super annoying now. Like he thinks he's the funniest person in any room he comes into. It kind of offput me for this movie - and honestly, I'm willing to say I'm getting a little tired of the Alex & Tommy show. I'd love to see more of just Tommy, maybe working Magic Line or something - but this one felt pretty forced. Some good laugh moments, but very little inspiration and overall I came away pretty disappointed. Conclusion: Reel Rock's weakest showing in years. Not a ton of replayability to be found here and overall it was high quality footage and presentation with low quality storylines or engagement. |
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Tal M wrote: Did you watch any of the bonus films? the Cenote footage was gorgeous, and Beth Rodden's film was the best film of this RR, should've been top billed. |
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Mx Amie wrote: I did! I didn't want to review them there since they're not apart of the feature presentation but I thought a lot of them were stronger than the feature films. |
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Movie: Sanctity Of Space (2021) Another Renan Ozturk film of massive proportions - Sanctity of Space is an omage to Brad Washburn and the adventurers of old. An excellent blend of both history and climbing stoke, this film is one you'd really like to sit down and focus on to watch. I watched it while doing other things and really had to put things aside and focus if I wanted to get the full scale of what I was witnessing. That being said, the pacing on this is a bit slower. While engaging in only the film certainly heightens the film experience significantly for this one, it does also feel a bit taxing. The film starts fairly slow, and is more of a history lesson in that way, and the large majority of the actual climbing doesn't happen until the last third of the film. This isn't necessarily a bad thing, but just something that should be noted ahead of time. The shots in this film are worth the watch alone - they're absolutely stunning - and it's mindbending seeing how many things Renan did immediately following his broken neck - Meru, this, etc. Truly makes you want to plan an Alaskan bush adventure. So sit down and enjoy the ride. Conclusion: Borderline unrivaled in its beauty, but has its lulls. As wild as the range it covers. |
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You should review Almost Alpine! I've watched it at least four times. |
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Movies: Wide Boyz (2012) The birth of the legendary duo - the Wide Boyz at this point are two of the biggest parts of the climbing zeitgeist around. It's easy to understand why in this movie - their fun attitude towards climbing, their excellent performance, and the way they roll with the punches. This movie highlights their FA of the hardest offwidth in the world - Century Crack. This was certainly not my first time seeing the movie, though it was my first time watching it with an intentionally discerning eye - and I gotta be honest - it's not as good as a movie as I remember. I mean - don't get me wrong, it's still super entertaining and worth the watch - but it has the fairly slow pacing of british climbing movies, which matches much better with the typical serious tone of them. The film is still a must watch at least for it's cultural influence, and honestly it is still pretty entertaining - but after your first watch I would guess that you'll probably ignore the first 20-25 minutes of this and just watch the meat of the climbing and goofy antics. Conclusion: The birth of one of the most influential groups in climbing, and as such is mandatory watching - but certainly isn't the greatest climbing movie ever made. |
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Movie: Masters of Stone 6: Breakthrough (2009) It's hard to describe this film - it changes topics so often it can be hard to keep up with. But holy hell - just about every second of film here is some legendary scene from climbing. Honnold free soloing the Rostrum and Astroman, Yuji and Hans on the Nose speed record, Dean Potter soloing Separate Reality etc. Even the less important stuff is still engaging - Cedar wright climbing Nutcracker in 5 minutes, 5.13 free soloing over a circus net - it's all just ludicrous. There's also the retrospective on the previous Masters of Stone's which - if you haven't seen binged all of them in a row up to this - provide a crazy overview of just how much they've captured over the years. (Dan Osman, seriously, what the fuck was wrong with you??). If there's a movie that's going to get you nostalgic for all of the climbing that happened in the past, it's this one. Includes some of the best moments of both the Stone Master and Stone Monkey era with the inclusion of the previous Masters of Stone highlights. Focuses nothing on history but is somehow probably the best capture of relatively recent climbing history out there. Side note: The soundtrack to this is a borderline religious experience. Not necessarily a good one, but one nonetheless. Conclusion: Overall, this is the ADHD climbers dream movie. Nothing like a consistent narrative anywhere in here - just constant action, adrenaline, and legendary moments. A definite watch. |
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Movie: Hard Grit (1998) A fascinating look into the history and practice of free solo trad that lives up to the hype. Conclusion: Every single person in this film needs to seek out professional help |
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Movie: Return2Sender (2005) I'm actually expecting this one to be a pretty unpopular opinion - Return2Sender is known as one of the more classic climbing films. And the first time I watched it, I absolutely adored it. I'm not sure what's changed - maybe my tastes are a bit more refined, maybe I'm in a bad mood because a cam hook popped on me today and split open my eyebrow, or maybe Timmy just doesn't have the same oomph to me that he once did. The footage and sends in this film are top notch. Parallelojams is a classic that actually taught me how to ringlock, as well as some basic OW technique. Any film with Didier climbing hard trad is always a joy. There's also some stuff that didn't feel quite as cool to me. The climbing dog, Cicada climbing her age (impressive for sure, just wasn't as enjoyable to watch), and pretty much every single Timmy O'Neill cutaway. Which is a shame, because he's a legend, and I love seeing him in more modern movies. Maybe it's just Timmy fatigue. Still a good movie, and one that's tailor made for your overstoker friends. Plus - the stuff on Greenland at the end is sick, Renan getting his start as a pro climber on N Six Shooter, and some of the highlining stuff. This film really set the standard for movies at the time, and that can't be forgotten just because movies nowadays are so much different. Conclusion: Dated, inconsistent, but significant and enjoyable. At a bare minimum, you gotta watch Parallelojams on youtube - it gives a good idea of how cool some of the climbing is, and how absolutely dated some of the skits are ("Some people say tape is the condoms of crack climbing!") |
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Movie: Friction Addiction (2003) It's something you'll read from me often - this is one of those movies that's probably a cult classic for the area it's developed about, but not as much beyond that. A look at bouldering in the needles of South Dakota - this movie is pretty peak 2000s climbing movie. That being said, it has some really cool spots to it. The movie starts just showing some of the more moderate classic problems around the Needles, which is neat that they feel attainable to normal human - but does unfortunately get boring fairly quickly. The good thing, however, it that it later shifts to really focus on the historical side of things, specifically with John Gill and his impact, as well as the Verm. Seeing these larger than life legends in a time where they're still performing well and making an impact was really cool. It was really need seeing so many people push themselves to try to match the standard of the previous generation. Watching someone fall 30ft up the thimble, struggle with classic Gill problems, and so much more - it really is fascinating. Definitely worth a watch at least once, but probably not incredibly re-watchable as a result. Conclusion: A really cool early 2000s bouldering film, but probably doesn't hold up to multiple rewatches. A neat spotlight on an area that doesn't get nearly enough coverage. |
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Here you go, Fritz Movie: Almost Alpine (2014) I've seen this movie a couple times before - once on a dedicated watch and once as more of something in the background while with some other folks. Honestly, I didn't expect to enjoy it too much on this rewatch. I didn't think it was going to be one that held up well. Boy was I wrong. Almost Alpine is a great satire on many climbing movies you see - and its date means that it predates many of the more common satires you see today. Filmed on a low budget, the movie has a nostalgic quality that makes you yearn for West Virginia. Despite being a comedy film, it certainly does an excellent job of seriously making you take an interest in climbing around endless wall and exploring the beauty that the southeast has to offer For the low price tag of free on youtube, and a quick 40 minute watch, it's a no brainer to check this out and get a few laughs in. Watch with your climbing buddies even - I know some of these quotes have followed me and my friends to the crags. May we all aspire to be almost alpine. Summary: A fun movie that makes you nostalgic for a place that you may have never climbed. Honestly should have been financially supported by the WV dept of tourism. |
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Movie: Wind & Rattlesnakes (2013) Heading to Lander to climb for the first time ever tomorrow and figured I'd siphon some stoke directly from the source. I had 0 idea what this movie was about (other than the lander area) prior to starting it, and whew golly it's a good one. Fans of Valley Uprising should give this a proper gander - a much more relaxed version of that film, W&R does an excellent job of blending climbing stoke with climbing history. Hard climbing, Todd Skinner legend, and a sense of exploration that hasn't been communicated this well in a climbing film for me in a while. The joys of finding new areas and being a part of something from the ground level is something I think many climbers wish for, and you get a piece of it with this film. I'm significantly more excited for this trip than I was an hour ago, which I thought was hard to achieve. I don't think a film about a place like Lander could ask for much more - it's a benchmark film for the area and to have such a dedicated and well produced film about Wild Iris and Sinks...the Lander area should be very proud. Conclusion: One of the best blends of Climbing history and stoke that I've seen in a long time. Scored high on my list - can't believe I had never heard of this before. |
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Tal M wrote: THE ÜBER-LEVEL! |