Vento Russian Cams
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ebay(dot)com/itm/384039949668 I'm trying to find information on these cams (replace the "(dot)" with a period to get the link) https://rockandice.com/climbing-gear-tips/are-russian-cams-good/ I found this article, but it's behind a paywall. Would someone be so kind as to paraphrase it for the public? My impression from comparing these cams visually with Trango flex cams, is that the middle arc of the lobe - where it is most likely to be loaded - is subject to crumpling where the flex cam has a support lattice. |
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What did you ever find out about this? |
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Martine Cartier wrote: Nothing yet. However, considering they seem to be based upon flex cams, and I have learned that I do not like the action of flex cams (the triggers don't retract the lobes completely, at least on the #6 I tried). So I'm not interested anymore anyway. It would be nice to know what the rock and ice article says. |
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Eric Moss wrote: Gear4Rocks is Ukrainian, not Russian. Also, Flex Cams are Czech, made by Ocun, and were distributed by Trango. Those two are completely unrelated. |
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I sometimes put those Gear4Rocks plastic nuts on my rack for the "partner shock value". It's worth it. |
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Back in the 1970’s Forrest made a blue colored plastic nut on a single swedge of heavy wire. Never owned one of the plastic nuts but always loved other Forrest gear. Forrest made a fiberglass handle rock hammer that pounds pitons and hand drills bolt holes like no other. The head was slightly heavier then the Chounard Yosemite hammer. |
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I too have the Gear4rocks plastic nuts; pre-Russian invasion, but I was happy with the service then. |
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Lots of these listed on Ebay. Listing for 4 cams for $75. hmmm. |
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Climbing technology (click up, rollnlock) make cams that are cheap, too. I almost bought a full rack years ago and it was like 1/2 of camalot prices. They looked like old technical friends but were lighter and anodized. |
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No. |
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If on a tight budget please consider Czech cams. E.g., Kouba cams. They are good (especially U-stem 3 lobes Manta cams). |
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BTW, Vento sells a lot of really good stuff. OEM krabs (Vento Light) aka Trango Phase (the same OEM binners). Vento jugs are really good (especially for rope access). And the cherry on the cake is Vento Mjolnir, vento.ru/en/product/195?v=349 It requires the only mod (remove all that rubber and plastic then apply some hockey tape instead) to become the best rock climbing hummer ever invented. Dynamic ropes are great for the price. Although theirs cams are khmmm… no. |
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Preeti P wrote: Just saw these....they LOOK cool but when I go to check out the Vento website, I cannot even find any cams. Looks like I will just have to bust out the AMEX for the good stuff. |
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You are right. They look pretty, search hits are not good besides the eBay add. |
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I bought some of the Ebay Vento cams just because of being interested. I have used just a little. I have a full rack of Metolius Ultralight Master cams and Black Diamond #3-#6. The Vento seem similar to Trango Flexcams. I have found the Vento of reasonable quality. They are a little bit on the heavy side. If the placement is more questionable, I don't think the Vento cams "bite" as well as the Metolius or BD. If it is an even solid placement, the Vento cams have been fine. As I use more, I may update on my experience. The Metolius and BD will be my go to cams. |
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Jason Bryant wrote: Good to know. Thanks. By the way, I learned that the way to access almost any paywalled article like r&i or climbing is to check archive.org for the article url. |
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I have a set of Vento cams from ebay about 2 years ago. and used them several times. My take is they are ok but have limitations. I have fallen on them 4 times and they hold well (first time was scary -- now i trust them). You have to be a bit more precise with placenment, as like Flex cams the size range is not great, also like Eric Moss said the action is not great if you over cam them you have a hard time removing them (the lobes dont retract fully) I lost one due to a friend letting it walk all the way into a crack, they are heavy. I have a half set of Wild County Friends. They are soooooo nice "push in and forget" but the Ventos are good to have on my rack. |