Top roping after lead climb
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So if I lead a climb and we have a friend that can just do top rope which end of the rope would you say to tie into? Would they tie into the end you just used and follow the draws as they go? Would they tie into the other end and unclip quickdraws as they go? If they use the end you did would it make any sense to still unclip draws? |
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As with many things in climbing - it depends :) If it's a simple up-n-down line, there's no problem TRing on the same end that the leader used, and the second can remove the draws on the way up or down. That the simplest case, and the easiest, because the rope's already coiled on the tarp for this when the leader comes down. If there's worry about a pendulum, though - a diagonal route or one with a traverse in the middle, etc - then it's often wise to TR off of the other end. Don't forget to tie the leader's end to the tarp or knot it when you start to pull it through to coil it on the tarp as the second climber gets ready. When the second climber gets to the draws, unclip them, then reclip on the way down (assuming you're leaving the TR up), and the TR climber won't have to worry about a big pendulum if they fall. |
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Pull the rope through to tie into the other end and unclip the draws on the way up. One reason is that being on the end of the rope that is going through the draws will protect the follower from unnecessary large swings in situations where the route wanders or traverses. It's less of an issue on straight forward routes but still a good habit to get into. |
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Think in terms of seconding the pitch (instead of TR). If its just the two of you. If its a group gangbang then just do whatever is fastest - someone else might want to lead it. |
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Climbing up under the draws helps them learn the balance of letting go with one hand so maybe they can start leading too |
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On the other hand, assuming a simple single pitch cragging session, if the leader cleans their draws on the lower, then the top rope climber can climb wherever they choose, within reason. Some anchors offer more than one route. Having the "follower" unclipping/cleaning draws on the way up forces staying on that route, and it's also sometimes harder to unclip a tight rope than it was to clip, but it is good practice for later. Could the person top roping be helped if a draw or sling is left, on a hard bit? Or are they a true beginner who may not even finish that route, and enjoy just the bottom part, or that jugfest next to it? Lots of options! When I'm on single pitch top rope, I'm not thinking leading/following at all. My mindset is only on the potential of the rock I see. Picking the line, deciding what to do with it, thinking about nothing at all but the actual climbing. I think there's a latent free soloist in the old lady somewhere, lol! But alas, splat happens, and has to be considered, sadly. Best, Helen |
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Claudine Longet wrote: This. If the other is at all interested in figuring out how to lead OR if you need to manage the swing. Otherwise, clean on the way down and use the same end for quicker turn around (or if the route is steep - could be a bitch to clean otherwise). |