Mammut Contact slings lifespan
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I remember reading a comment sometime ago saying that Mammut Contact 8.0 slings have a pretty limited lifespan, so I finally looked into it and this is what I found: Source: Link to PDF What I'm gathering from this is that they basically can be used between 52 and <365 days, which seems pretty low to me. I've never been a replace-your-soft-goods-frequently climber, because I think manufacturers often underestimate their lifespan because it drives more sales and helps prevent lawsuits. But I do use slings (or at least incorporate them) for my anchors, so I'm starting to think about replacing them with another product with a longer lifespan. So my questions are:
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Like most manufacturer recs that is extremely conservative. 1. I've used other random dyneema slings. I like contact best but would take any. Seem to all wear about the same. 2. No breaking and I doubt anyone has seen it other than in cutting/fixed crispy tat. (See break tests on very fuzzy slings testing at 10+ kn) 3. I bet you could find someone and I bet they will break slightly less than manufacturer rating. |
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I just use my oldest ones solely as tripled "trad draws". With 6 strands taking the load, NFW they're going to break. But yea, I also buy a few new ones once in a while. |
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Mammut, Petzl, and BD Dyneema slings are sewn with nylon thread. Nylon is weakened by prolonged exposure to UV. Spectra fiber, which composes Dyneema, isn’t. Abrasion can affect either fiber. Bluewater may be the only manufacturer that uses Spectra thread to sew slings. Spectra doesn’t hold dyes; it appears to be bright white, whereas nylon thread can be dyed to any color, including light gray. The stitches in slings and harnesses should be examined frequently for condition. |
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If I remember correctly, on my scale the Mammut slings were actually within a gram each of the black diamond and camp 10mm slings. And they seem much more rugged IMO... |
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How not to highline did some break tests on contact slings even when partially cut and they broke somewhere else, not at the cut. Really surprising result, can't remember if they were new or used tho. I have 5 or 6 single length contact slings and while they are the lightest I save them for alpine climbing & mountaineering since they get fuzzy so fast and the thinness is still a bit of a mental hurdle when I'm climbing hard trad. For the money, I just buy whatever 10-11mm dyneema slings are on sale (I have BD, DMM, CAMP, Metolius, Edelweiss, Edelrid, etc) for my workhorses and they are all great, barely weigh more and inspire a lot more confidence for rubbing on edges and general wear. |
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Those recommendations are so conservative. I can't believe how so many climbers on mountain project and social media following this. You are using nuts rated at 6-7 kN without any concern. Even after 10 years your contact sling stay stronger than all your nuts. |
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I had Jenks from “How not to highline” test a few of those Mammut slings from 2006. When I acquired them they were new in the packaging, stored in ideal conditions. They broke at 25Kn. Properly stored; no use/wear seems to mean no loss of strength. |