New Outdoor Sport Climbing shoe

Hello,

I am looking for a new shoe.

Mainly for Outdoor Sport Climbing between 5.10c - 5.11c. No overhang, No crag, Steep or slab. Mostly edging.

Stree size 44EU (29,6cm) First shoe La sportiva Mythos 42/5 EU top big. Second shoe La Sportiva Skwama 41/5 EU snug fit first was a big pain now is snug but ok.

Looking for the next shoe i got a wide foot and a high rist. Thats why i took the skwama.

Now looking for a diffrent shoe and thinking about Katana Lace, Otaki.

What size should i order that katana lace that i have the same fit then my broke in Skwama?

Is the otaki a wider katana lace?

Are there any else wide shoes that are good for my needs?

Is there a reason you want to move from the Skwama? Just looking to try something new? I love my skwamas and typically use them or my generals depending on what I'm climbing. Generals are really stiff and might be decent for edging but I don't climb any specific type of rock to know enough if I'm being honest. They're great crack and multipitch shoes which is what I predominantly use them for. My skwamas get just about everything else.

Tal M wrote:

Is there a reason you want to move from the Skwama? Just looking to try something new? I love my skwamas and typically use them or my generals depending on what I'm climbing. Generals are really stiff and might be decent for edging but I don't climb any specific type of rock to know enough if I'm being honest. They're great crack and multipitch shoes which is what I predominantly use them for. My skwamas get just about everything else.

Thanks for the quick answer!

To be honest i just need to resole my Skwamas and am looking for a second paar of shoes. And because i only tried 2 shoes i would like to try new ones. Im looking to try stiffer/hard sole shoes maybe that my edging improves but idk i never had a good fitting stiff shoe. The only thing i dont like about my skwama is that the toe ruber is slowly coming of, lots of edges are already lose. Did u ever have the same problem?

Jean Paul Orlainsky wrote:

Thanks for the quick answer!

To be honest i just need to resole my Skwamas and am looking for a second paar of shoes. And because i only tried 2 shoes i would like to try new ones. Im looking to try stiffer/hard sole shoes maybe that my edging improves but idk i never had a good fitting stiff shoe. The only thing i dont like about my skwama is that the toe ruber is slowly coming of, lots of edges are already lose. Did u ever have the same problem?

Haven't had any edges come loose but the skwama is definitely the softest of my shoes. The Evolv Oracle is super stiff (good for climbing) with only a very slight downturn. I wear a 43 in Skwamas, a 42 in Mythos, and a 45 in the Generals. In my experience, the generals stretch less than the Mythos - it took me a while for the generals to be comfortable on me. Something to note is that all of my shoes are sized so that I can wear (thin-ish) socks with them for at least a single pitch. For tight fits (like my Evolv Oracles), I size down a bit. Those are 44.5s and I cannot wear them for more than a single pitch and am taking them off as soon as I hit the anchors. I'm typically a 45 street shoe.

I think the Vapor Vs are also pretty stiff if I remember correctly - I wear a 44.5 for those.

I think we are the same size! Try 41 Katanas. Amazing for edging. 

5.10 Quantum may be a good option. 

I can't answer the specifies of sizing, as I have no reference.  

But, for edging, I like my Evolv Supras a lot. I also have a wide foot and high arch, and find them very comfortable.  They are also a good hand+ size crack shoe.  I sized mine up 1/2 size from street shoe.  

I personally love the La Sportiva Miuras, especially the VS (Velcro).  They have hard rubber and edge like a dream.  I wear a 39.5 in Skwamas and a 40.5 in Miura VS

Edging plus other stuff= Otaki 

Steeper and limestone= solution.

Easier handCracks and multi= katana lace

gym= soft and cheap.

YMMV but I bought a lot of shoes I actually didn’t love before arriving at a quiver I’m super stoked on

Sportiva are quality and work for me. 

I have wider feet too and really like Scarpa Instinct laces.  Good edging and softer rubber for smears. 

I went from 5.11a to 5.13a/b in 10 months with solution comps and the 5.13 was a vertical crimpfest, wouldn’t have ever chosen another shoe for the job. Not saying the shoes are why I progressed and they won’t magically make you better but they are comfy and perform amazingly on all angles and styles, and having shoes I liked to wear definitely didn’t hinder progress. They are also cheaper than most other LS performance models, $40 cheaper than katanas (I got em too, like em for hard cracks but would choose comps over em for most other hard applications that don’t involve cruxy jamming)

Pete S wrote:

I have wider feet too and really like Scarpa Instinct laces.  Good edging and softer rubber for smears. 

Instinct lace ups have the hardest rubber Vibram offers…4mm at that…

For reference, shoes regarded as ‘good for smearing’ are usually softer and are now being marketed as “comp” models; whereas edging shoes are harder and stiffer (tehehe) rubber. You typically don’t have shoes that are both good at smearing and soft. You’re either not actually edging to the point where the rubber matters or the rubber isn’t actually soft. 

Haha. @super taco, too cute, you’re trolling me cause I called you out for your political bs.   keep it up, :) 

Pete S wrote:

Haha. @super taco, too cute, you’re trolling me cause I called you out for your political bs.   keep it up, :) 

Is it really trolling when you’re wrong? Anyways, I would categorize that post as more “calling out” than I would “trolling”