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Climbing jacket suggestion for the love of God

Original Post
Tanner James · · Sierras · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 950

I need a jacket that works for climbing. I got the Patagonia down hoody and could not have been more disappointed with its durability. It is seriously comical how much it fell apart after a few weeks of very mild climbing. I’m not like doing 600ft of chimneys in the jacket I just climbed some normal routes and it has probably 20 x inch or wider tears in it all over. Anywhere it touched rock it gashed open, I can’t wash it or anything because it will literally lose all of its down immediately. I’m going to send it in to get repaired but it’s a 3 month turn around currently so I’m waiting till summer. I also have the arcteryx atom LT which has been better, but I took it up Whitney’s east butt last weekend and came out with 2 huge rips in the sleeves somehow. Looking for your most durable jacket recs for some colder alpine climbs. I cannot physically afford to continue climbing year round I’m treating jackets as consumable like it’s chalk. Thanks in advance 

Levi X · · Washington · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 63

Have you tried using a shell over your puffy?

Tanner James · · Sierras · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 950
Levi X wrote:

Have you tried using a shell over your puffy?

I have not... I assumed that would be too warm but that’s actually a great idea

Tanner James · · Sierras · Joined Dec 2019 · Points: 950
Not Hobo Greg wrote:

What are you doing, non stop chimneying? My Patty down sweater has held up to three Josh seasons, and I don’t even wear a shell over it.

I’ve been a huge patty fan in the past, but this jacket has been a very negative outlier. Assuming/hoping it’s user error or a one off

jdejace · · New England · Joined Sep 2013 · Points: 5

I'd suggest a softshell outer layer instead of a light puffy. 

You should be able to tell pretty easily with a jacket in your hands how it will do scraping against rock. It doesn't matter if it's Patagonia or Arc'teryx, thin shell fabric is thin shell fabric. 

Try layering a softshell and fleece. 

Rasputin NLN · · fuckin Hawaii · Joined Aug 2018 · Points: 0

there aren’t any down puffies that are going to withstand the abrasion of rock climbing unless it has a heavy nylon or goretex type face fabric. It’s just the wrong application. I’m sure there are folks who will disagree but feel the fabric in your hand and tell me one snag won’t put a 1” “L” shape tear in the fabric and  then looks like a duck just got killed at the belay. 

In winter I wear a wool long sleeve, 100 weight fleece and a soft shell. I also will layer a nano puff under the shell on single digit days. Double weave soft shells are very durable and tears don’t propagate like some hard shells. I like the Gamma MX hoody with the light fleece lining. 

In rock season most folks I know wear a fleece jacket, with either a wind shirt or an un-insulated gore Tex.

If you are really stuck ok climbing in a puffy as your outer layer one of the jackets with synthetic continuous fiber insulation will help keep you from losing insulation if the fabric tears. 

Demetri V · · Farmington, CT · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 132

Try a fleece with a light outer fabric, like the OR Ascendant. Bring a 20D nylon wind shirt to throw over top when the wind is high or you're in a particular high-abrasion situation.

Jakob Melchior · · Basel, CH · Joined Oct 2018 · Points: 0

The Rab Borealis is a super nice and light softshell. Great to wear over a fleece or puffy and super durable. Developed with bigwall climbing in mind. Also great as a summer Windblocker just over a t-shirt.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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