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Taping Missing Finger Tip

Original Post
ES Ctr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5
dindolino32 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

My understanding is that the sensitivity should go away with time, I would make some lateral struts and then circumferential wraps above the next knuckle.  Is your goal to protect from pain?

Pierre Proulx · · Montreal, Quebec, CA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 10

Maybe take a look at what Tommy Caldwell did? He explained some of it in Dawn wall. Seems to have worked quite well for him.

dindolino32 · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2009 · Points: 25

There is a "pre-tape" adhesive that I have seen that might help. Amazon link here.  I havent used this one, but I have tried one for my ankle in the past.  It makes it hard to remove for sure.  Without pics, I don't know how we could guide the tape job.  You could probably take the foam from a cheap insole, cut, heat and form to increase padding. Hope that helps!

Grug M · · SALT LAKE CITY · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 5

Hello, I lost the end 1/3 of my left ring finger crack climbing. I had surgery to sew it up and completely "round off" the distal phalange tendons, ligaments, and other remaining flesh. My finger now ends at the end of the middle phalange. I think if you have any of the residual distal phalange left it will be a longer healing process. How much finger do you have?

After surgery here was my approximate climbing dates:

4-6 weeks after surgery: bandaged with stitches. Climbing not possible. 

2-6 months after surgery: light climbing possible - painful crimping. I could tell the severed tendons were still healing. Also the finger tip was not "tough enough".

6-12 months after surgery: moderate-hard climbing possible. Finger was building up tissue and reducing sensitivity. 

18-24 months after surgery: climbing at my highest level even pre accident. 

Grug M · · SALT LAKE CITY · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 5

Pre-surgery. Pinky is degloved but not permantly damaged. Ring finger is missing 90% of distal phalange. 

ES Ctr · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Apr 2016 · Points: 5

Ouch sorry about that.

DIP joint is gone so basically the whole tip with the joint is gone.  So joint for the tip is missing.

Sounds like basically same amount u are missing 1/3 approximately.

Do you put or tape anything else on end to create more padding?

Grug M · · SALT LAKE CITY · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 5

Thanks, but no sorry needed! I always say I have 9 others. 

Yeah sounds like the same amount of finger. I do not put tape on it - but it was tender for the first 6 months. As mentioned above: Tommy Caldwell used a technique of stabbing his finger into jars of dirt/gravel to desensitize. That is probably a bit extreme unless you need to be climbing crimps ASAP and I would just recommend time. 

Also weird side effect: my finger now has terrible circulation and gets cold much more easily than any other part of my body.

Picture of it today:

 
Seth Bradshaw · · Canton, OH · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 150

I'm missing 2/3 of my middle and really like the little silicone nub glove they gave me in pt for when I'm outside in the cold.

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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