Anyone try the new Five Ten NIADs?
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https://www.adidas.com/us/five-ten-niad-vcs-climbing-shoes/FW2849.html They look like Anasazis, but with some slight tweaks (different heel, toe rubber on top). Has anyone tried them yet and care to comment on how they compare to the classic Anasazis? |
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They definitely don’t look like they were designed to climb the NIAD ironically. |
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Lol nope. Maybe the Mocc? |
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I’m guessing the NIAD rebrand was to avoid PC issues with Anasazi |
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I hope you’re wrong but you’re probably not. |
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Ted Pinson wrote: Lol he’s definitely right. |
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Ordered a pair and comparing them to a brand new pair the latest version of the Anasazi. Sizing about the same, toe box seem a bit narrower but more volume in hight over the toes in the area where the new bigger rubber patch is, leaves me some extra loose fabric since the laces is pulled back to make room for the rubber. Heel is a bit deeper and wider, leaves for more dead space for my heels. New lining and tongue feel softer on the skin, and also a new face fabric. Womens mod are even a bit narrower in the toe box, and with a strait shallow heel with tension really low down. Returning the Niads and keeping the Anasazis that I like a lot. |
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R Bridge wrote: Good feedback. Adidas is doing a great job ruining the 5.10 products I loved. First they absolutely butchered the Guide Tennies and now they're ruining my go-to shoe. 5.10 selling out to Adidas is going the way of Lucas selling Star Wars to Disney. |
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R Bridge wrote: Thanks for the report. Thankfully they’re still selling the non-PC version but might be worth stocking up. |
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Just got a pair of the laces last week. The fit was small for me. I'm 11.5 street and the size 12 niad lace gives my slightly curled toes, after a couple pitches I sense they are going to stretch and be about right but no other size 12 shoe has ever been this tight. The 12 niad laces fit tighter than the new 11.5 grandstone in my case. The good news for me is that they are pretty narrow in the toe area which is something I'm always looking for. |
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Rob P wrote: They look like iteration of an Anasazi, which has a ton of famous El Cap IAD history from Dean Potter to Pete Whittaker. I thought the Anasazi Pro was a nice set of improvements from the regular Anasazi. This looks like a more refined version of the Pro. Maybe some new owners can confirm? Cheers. |
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Looks like they put the rubber patch on the wrong side. I shoe goo the tops of my Anasazi VCS for crack climbing protection. Bummer they discontinued such a legendary shoe. |
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It's not just a matter of political correctness. The term "anasazi" means ancient enemy and isn't a great way to refer to the ancestors of a group of people. See info here: https://indianpueblo.org/what-does-anasazi-mean-and-why-is-it-controversial/ |
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Good on 5.10 for changing the name of that shoe if that's whats going on |
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I've been a die hard Anasazi Velcro shoe guy for many years and I started trying these out though don't expect the NADs to be much like the Anasazi Velcro. First, realize you will need to order 1 size bigger than what you're used to. Not big deal if you know that. The toe box has too much volume, not allowing the familiar Anasazi wrinkles to form. The lower strap and buckle sit/support higher on the foot, which will take some getting used to. Sweet spot to edge on is not under big toe any more, but rather under second. The heel cup is indeed much more comfy. I do wish the top toe rubber patch was more on outside of foot instead of inside (for jamming instead of tow hooking). I will see how they break in and report back. |
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Darren Mabe wrote: I'm eying the NIAD laces and hoping they are lower volume. So if you used to wear a 10, now you order an 11? |
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Ethan Ayer wrote: Yup. I am an 11 in either Blancos or VCS, and now my NIAD is a 12 for similar out-of-the-box fit |
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T Lego wrote: Yeah I was initially opposed b/c I’m not a huge fan of censorship/political correctness but in this case it’s justified. |
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Clea T Royal wrote: Problem is I know Anasazis fit my foot really well, not so sure about UP. I’ve been meaning to check them out but am not thrilled at the idea of blindly ordering online. Also, Five Ten does that sweet AAC discount (dropped to 30% this year but still pretty good). |