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Anyone try the new Five Ten NIADs?

Original Post
Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

https://www.adidas.com/us/five-ten-niad-vcs-climbing-shoes/FW2849.html

They look like Anasazis, but with some slight tweaks (different heel, toe rubber on top).  Has anyone tried them yet and care to comment on how they compare to the classic Anasazis?

Rob P · · Duluth, MN · Joined Sep 2008 · Points: 591

They definitely don’t look like they were designed to climb the NIAD ironically.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

Lol nope.  Maybe the Mocc?

John Clark · · Sierras · Joined Mar 2016 · Points: 1,398

I’m guessing the NIAD rebrand was to avoid PC issues with Anasazi

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252

I hope you’re wrong but you’re probably not.

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25
Ted Pinson wrote:

I hope you’re wrong but you’re probably not.

Lol he’s definitely right.

R Bridge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0

Ordered a pair and comparing them to a brand new pair the latest version of the Anasazi.

Sizing about the same, toe box seem a bit narrower but more volume in hight over the toes in the area where the new bigger rubber patch is, leaves me some extra loose fabric since the laces is pulled back to make room for the rubber.

Heel is a bit deeper and wider, leaves for more dead space for my heels.

New lining and tongue feel softer on the skin, and also a new face fabric.

Womens mod are even a bit narrower in the toe box, and with a strait shallow heel with tension really low down.

Returning the Niads and keeping the Anasazis that I like a lot.

ClimbingOn · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Aug 2008 · Points: 0
R Bridge wrote:

Ordered a pair and comparing them to a brand new pair the latest version of the Anasazi.

Sizing about the same, toe box seem a bit narrower but more volume in hight over the toes in the area where the new bigger rubber patch is, leaves me some extra loose fabric since the laces is pulled back to make room for the rubber.

Heel is a bit deeper and wider, leaves for more dead space for my heels.

New lining and tongue feel softer on the skin, and also a new face fabric.

Womens mod are even a bit narrower in the toe box, and with a strait shallow heel with tension really low down.

Returning the Niads and keeping the Anasazis that I like a lot.

Good feedback. Adidas is doing a great job ruining the 5.10 products I loved. First they absolutely butchered the Guide Tennies and now they're ruining my go-to shoe. 5.10 selling out to Adidas is going the way of Lucas selling Star Wars to Disney.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
R Bridge wrote:

Ordered a pair and comparing them to a brand new pair the latest version of the Anasazi.

Sizing about the same, toe box seem a bit narrower but more volume in hight over the toes in the area where the new bigger rubber patch is, leaves me some extra loose fabric since the laces is pulled back to make room for the rubber.

Heel is a bit deeper and wider, leaves for more dead space for my heels.

New lining and tongue feel softer on the skin, and also a new face fabric.

Womens mod are even a bit narrower in the toe box, and with a strait shallow heel with tension really low down.

Returning the Niads and keeping the Anasazis that I like a lot.

Thanks for the report.  Thankfully they’re still selling the non-PC version but might be worth stocking up.

Brian Allen · · Palm Desert · Joined Apr 2010 · Points: 93

Just got a pair of the laces last week.  The fit was small for me.  I'm 11.5 street and the size 12 niad lace gives my slightly curled toes, after a couple pitches I sense they are going to stretch and be about right but no other size 12 shoe has ever been this tight. The 12 niad laces fit tighter than the new 11.5 grandstone in my case.

The good news for me is that they are pretty narrow in the toe area which is something I'm always looking for.  

John Shultz · · Osaka, Japan · Joined Dec 2008 · Points: 50
Rob P wrote:

They definitely don’t look like they were designed to climb the NIAD ironically.

They look like iteration of an Anasazi, which has a ton of famous El Cap IAD history from Dean Potter to Pete Whittaker. 

I thought the Anasazi Pro was a nice set of improvements from the regular Anasazi. This looks like a more refined version of the Pro. Maybe some new owners can confirm? 

Cheers. 

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

Looks like they put the rubber patch on the wrong side. I shoe goo the tops of my Anasazi VCS for crack climbing protection. Bummer they discontinued such a legendary shoe. 

Alexander Xin · · New York, NY · Joined Jun 2018 · Points: 0

It's not just a matter of political correctness. The term "anasazi" means ancient enemy and isn't a great way to refer to the ancestors of a group of people. See info here:

https://indianpueblo.org/what-does-anasazi-mean-and-why-is-it-controversial/

T Lego · · Asheville, NC · Joined Apr 2020 · Points: 21

Good on 5.10 for changing the name of that shoe if that's whats going on 

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669

I've been a die hard Anasazi Velcro shoe guy for many years and I started trying these out though don't expect the NADs to be much like the Anasazi Velcro. First, realize you will need to order 1 size bigger than what you're used to. Not big deal if you know that. 

The toe box has too much volume, not allowing the familiar Anasazi wrinkles to form. The lower strap and buckle sit/support higher on the foot, which will take some getting used to. Sweet spot to edge on is not under big toe any more, but rather under second. The heel cup is indeed much more comfy. I do wish the top toe rubber patch was more on outside of foot instead of inside (for jamming instead of tow hooking). 

I will see how they break in and report back. 

Ethan Ayer · · Los Angeles, CA · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0
Darren Mabe wrote:

I've been a die hard Anasazi Velcro shoe guy for many years and I have been trying these out though don't expect the NADs to be much like the Anasazi Velcro. First, realize you will need to order 1 size bigger than what you're used to. Not big deal if you know that. 

The toe box has too much volume, not allowing the familiar Anasazi wrinkles to form. The lower strap and buckle sit/support higher on the foot, which will take some getting used to. Sweet spot to edge on is not under big toe any more, but rather under second. The heel cup is indeed much more comfy. I do wish the top toe rubber patch was more on outside of foot instead of inside (for jamming instead of tow hooking). 

I will see how they break in and report back. 

I'm eying the NIAD laces and hoping they are lower volume. So if you used to wear a 10, now you order an 11?

Darren Mabe · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Dec 2002 · Points: 3,669
Ethan Ayer wrote:

I'm eying the NIAD laces and hoping they are lower volume. So if you used to wear a 10, now you order an 11?

Yup. I am an 11 in either Blancos or VCS, and now my  NIAD is a 12 for similar out-of-the-box fit

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
T Lego wrote:

Good on 5.10 for changing the name of that shoe if that's whats going on 

Yeah I was initially opposed b/c I’m not a huge fan of censorship/political correctness but in this case it’s justified.

Ted Pinson · · Chicago, IL · Joined Jul 2014 · Points: 252
Clea T Royal wrote:

Just get the Unparallel equivalent. Thats the shoe the NIADs are copying anyway, and the Unparallels are made by the original 5.10 people rather than Adidas.

Problem is I know Anasazis fit my foot really well, not so sure about UP.  I’ve been meaning to check them out but am not thrilled at the idea of blindly ordering online.  Also, Five Ten does that sweet AAC discount (dropped to 30% this year but still pretty good).

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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