Gym lead testing and the Ohm

Ah, the ever-controversial lead test at the gym. I took one recently, belaying a friend with a significant weight difference. When we stated that we preferred to use the ohm so I wasn’t ripped through the first bolt, we were told we couldn’t test out using the ohm. Guess what, I got to take a nice ride to the first bolt...

My question: is there a reason behind this besides the lawyers don’t know what an ohm is?

I was told that we're not allowed to amend fixed gym equipment. So basically they installed a fixed anchor and quickdraw so that's how we're supposed to use it. 

Gyms get to make their own rules no matter how preposterous. Choose to play along or... 

alpinejason wrote:

I was told that we're not allowed to amend fixed gym equipment. So basically they installed a fixed anchor and quickdraw so that's how we're supposed to use it. 

Gyms get to make their own rules no matter how preposterous. Choose to play along or... 

The employee at our gym who did the lead test was the one who introduced my husband and me to the ohm and showed us how to use it!  We had had a long lay off from climbing (kids......) and so we had never heard of it.  She took one look at us and said to me “ are you comfortable belaying him?” I said yes we had climbed together for many years but admittedly did not fall much. She then said “have you tried using an ohm?”.  We now use it every time my husband leads and it helps a lot, also makes lowering easier.  And yes we passed our lead test as well....... 

I don’t know why gyms wouldn’t try to help climbers like this. 

Anna Janecek wrote:

My question: is there a reason behind this besides the lawyers don’t know what an ohm is?

Ignorance and stupidity. Lawyers have nothing to do with this

It may be ignorance.  Or it may be that the gym / lawyers do not want to depend on clients always remembering to bring it or always making the correct call every belay on whether to use it.

Test closer to failure?

(Just playing devils advocate.  Feeling sheepish about it too as one of those heavier humans.)

Did they allow you to use one later, just not test with one?

I've lost track of all the stupid and arbitrary gym rules I have encountered over the years. I remember one where you could belay with a gri-gri, but not allowed to take a lead test with a gri-gri!

At the end of the day, you nod, grin, and bear it, if you want to climb in that gym. And maybe drop a note in suggestion box. 

They do allow you to use one later! And I’m grateful for anybody playing devils advocate here- I am thinking about bringing it up to the owner, but was wondering if there was something I missed.

Having seen many arbitrary gym rules, I wanted to make sure before I brought it up that I wasn’t missing some obvious reason why this rule could make sense. There have been many conversations devoted to stupid gym policies...no stopper knots, stopper knots, must anchor to the ground, never anchor to the ground, always pull tr rope, never pull tr rope, must gri gri belay..... sorry to create another one here! 

alpinejason wrote:

I was told that we're not allowed to amend fixed gym equipment. So basically they installed a fixed anchor and quickdraw so that's how we're supposed to use it. 

Gyms get to make their own rules no matter how preposterous. Choose to play along or... 

that sounds similar to my gym's justification. For a friend's test we asked if we could use it, and they said we could use a sandbag instead. 

Anna Janecek wrote:

They do allow you to use one later! And I’m grateful for anybody playing devils advocate here- I am thinking about bringing it up to the owner, but was wondering if there was something I missed.

Having seen many arbitrary gym rules, I wanted to make sure before I brought it up that I wasn’t missing some obvious reason why this rule could make sense. There have been many conversations devoted to stupid gym policies...no stopper knots, stopper knots, must anchor to the ground, never anchor to the ground, always pull tr rope, never pull tr rope, must gri gri belay..... sorry to create another one here! 

My guess is that they have a set of rules on how they administer the test so that there is no interpretation required on the part of the employees.  The other aspect is that not everyone uses an Ohm, and you are getting a lead card, not a 'lead card only if you use an Ohm.'  What happens if you don't have or use it and get a ride?

I do agree, however, that it is pretty arbitrary.  I use an ABD and my daughter was taking the lead test and I yanked her to the first bolt and she let go.  She obviously failed.  Next time she was in I asked another friend much much closer in weight to test with her and she had no problems.  I was just really careful in the future when I climbed with her (and she did hang on the few times I took a whipper) and she never climbed with anyone but me.

Taking that ride is the best part of testing in the gym

I always let people use an Ohm if they want to.  I've also recommended it, or at least shown it, to lead climbers who are quite different in weight.  It's not a lawyer issue.  Climbers are always responsible for their own personal climbing equipment.  It's in your waiver :)

I checked my local gym this morning.  Not only do they allow using an ohm during lead belay testing, they have ones that can be rented in case yours is forgotten. Anyway, during the test, they expect you to know proper Ohm use if you use one, just like with your belay device, etc..

“Renting” may have just been a matter of a deposit like giving them your smart phone. Not sure.

Joffy J wrote:

Curious if they let you do other "ease of belaying" actions. Like if you skipped the first clip so they don't hit it.

My local gym does allow skipping the first clip.