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Boone bouldering beta

Original Post
Tyler Barnes · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 116

I'm driving through Boone on Tuesday and will have time for an afternoon session. Any advice on where to go? Given my limited time I'm looking for an easy-to-find spot with moderates and an easy approach. It might rain/snow the day before so faster to dry is best. I was thinking buckeye knob/barn boulders, mostly because there's enough info on the internet suggesting that I'll easily find parking and boulders. I'm also open to meeting up with a local(s) if interested.

Nico I · · Asheville, NC · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

If you don’t boulder at least V5 other places Boone is simply not going to be a fun place to go bouldering for you.

Tyler Barnes · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 116
Nico I wrote:

If you don’t boulder at least V5 other places Boone is simply not going to be a fun place to go bouldering for you.

I do. Maybe my use of 'moderate' is ill-defined. I'm looking for stuff in the V4-V7 range. 

Ezra Ellis · · Hotlanta · Joined Dec 2007 · Points: 0

Lots of good easy boulders at  blowing rock,

Might be wet or snowy though 

Jeffrey Arthur · · Westminster, CO · Joined Mar 2008 · Points: 290
Nico I wrote:

If you don’t boulder at least V5 other places Boone is simply not going to be a fun place to go bouldering for you.

What a load of poop! The car door problems at G-Mom, long wall, pulling teeth, Blowing Rock, Smart Tom the entire area is filled with CLASSIC grades way below V5. I feel like between V0-V7 you pretty much can climb 90% of the problems in the Boone area. Will anything feel soft, not much but it’s certainly not the most sandbagged area. I’m from the area and my family still lives in Boone. So several trips back home each year I go bouldering in Boone as long as the weather is cooperating. It’s not as extensive as Rumbling Bald, but good grief there’s a lifetime of bouldering at Blowing Rock, Grandmother, Lost Cove and 221.

Goto the local bouldering/coffee shop in Boone called Center 45. They’ll hook you up with the beta and if you need a pad rental hit Footsloggers.

BigCountry · · The High Country · Joined May 2012 · Points: 20
Nico I wrote:

If you don’t boulder at least V5 other places Boone is simply not going to be a fun place to go bouldering for you.

Lmao what a load of shit man

M M · · Maine · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 2
BigCountry wrote:

Lmao what a load of shit man

Seriously.

Tyler Barnes · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 116
Jeffrey Arthur wrote:

Goto the local bouldering/coffee shop in Boone called Center 45. They’ll hook you up with the beta and if you need a pad rental hit Footsloggers.

Do you have any experience with the barn boulders at buckeye knob? It seems like a fairly accessible spot for a quick session. Any beta here or for another spot with easy access and easy to find is appreciated. PM to keep it on the down-low.

I'll only have a few hours in boone this time so I'd prefer to just roll up to the crag, rather than stopping by local climbing hangouts. 

Rob D · · Queens, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

really wet last night and hasn't stopped flurrying. 

Rick Carpenter · · Marion, NC · Joined Aug 2010 · Points: 1,315

Dump boulders. Roadside & no hike. Good cluster v5-v9

Brad Caldwell · · Deep in the Jocassee Gorges · Joined May 2010 · Points: 1,400

Here's some of the only published beta for Boone

https://www.climbing.com/.amp/news/hidden-gems/

And some general directions here

https://advguides.com/category/boone-adventures/boone-bouldering-climbing/ 

Nico I · · Asheville, NC · Joined Nov 2018 · Points: 0

listen y’all. Of course you can find stuff to climb sub V5 in Boone. There’s tons. Boone has a long history of gatekeeping for a reason! It’s got the most steep high quality rock in NC! 

Abogado Chris · · San Diego, CA · Joined Nov 2016 · Points: 1

I am about to move from San Diego to NC. Areas in So-Cal like J-tree, Bishop, and Black Mountain have a whole slew of historically sandbagged climbs, the debate over what is and isn't sandbagged around here gets pretty intense. So many big egos. If you were to ask most climbers around here they would tell you our grades are the standard, that a V1 here is like a V5 in other places because other places fluff their grades and of course we have the best granite in the world (like everyone else). 

So I am excited to get out to places in NC to compare the granite quality and ratings. Will be interesting to see who has the bigger ego! Cali climbers or those Carolina Boys?

BigCountry · · The High Country · Joined May 2012 · Points: 20
Abogado Chris wrote:

I am about to move from San Diego to NC. Areas in So-Cal like J-tree, Bishop, and Black Mountain have a whole slew of historically sandbagged climbs, the debate over what is and isn't sandbagged around here gets pretty intense. So many big egos. If you were to ask most climbers around here they would tell you our grades are the standard, that a V1 here is like a V5 in other places because other places fluff their grades and of course we have the best granite in the world (like everyone else). 

So I am excited to get out to places in NC to compare the granite quality and ratings. Will be interesting to see who has the bigger ego! Cali climbers or those Carolina Boys?

I already feel like you need to tone it down idk

Tyler Barnes · · Charlottesville, VA · Joined Nov 2017 · Points: 116
Abogado Chris wrote:

So I am excited to get out to places in NC to compare the granite quality and ratings. Will be interesting to see who has the bigger ego! Cali climbers or those Carolina Boys?

Go bouldering at Grayson Highlands and then at a place like Blowing Rock and you'll find the same variations in grading as you would find anywhere else.

Also, there's a lot more to life than granite. Just wait until you experience southern sandstone.

Rob D · · Queens, NY · Joined May 2011 · Points: 30

I personally don't think grades in california or NC are especially sandbagged.  At all.  Some stiff grades, for sure, and an occasional pure-sandbag, but neither area feels like it's stiffer or harder than the other (especially once you're used to the styles).  I spend 90% of my climbing every year in the gunks though, which feel like accurate grades to me. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Southern States
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