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In search of varied hangboard workout

Original Post
Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

Can anyone recommend a good workout routine for a basic hangboard that works most if not all of the upper body muscles?

Thanks!

Mack Johnson · · Silverdale, WA · Joined Sep 2016 · Points: 1,061

https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/more-exercises-hangboard-training-guide-html

The Metolius website has lots of files with exercises, training tips, installation, training cycles etc.  Using their 10-minute sequences is one way to get started.  Some of their magazine ads give 10-minute sequences that are okay.  

A hangboard is meant for training contact strength in the forearms with various grips, and also for pull-muscle strength.  It will not work "most or all of the upper body muscles".  You will need other ways to work antagonist muscle groups to balance your training, prevent injury, and work pushing muscles.  Calisthenics and a few sets of dumbbells will be good for core, back, triceps, shoulders, and forearms.  Leg-raise exercises such as levers, leg lifts, and L-sits can be done on the board.

I have been hangboarding since 1987 (off and on!).  I switch up between 10-minute sequences (the beginner is tough enough at my age), repeaters, and sets of straight pullups or hangs.  Pulls and hangs are for power, repeaters develop endurance, 10-min sequences are a mix.  

This is basic info but I hope it helps.  There are a number of training books with board exercises too.  Be sure to take plenty of rest days when you do this kind of intensive training.  

Cutler Jensen · · Unknown Hometown · Joined May 2020 · Points: 0

I use one called Boulder trainer you can design your own routine and it works with literally any Hangbord you could buy. I love it

Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

I guess what I am looking for is a workout that could replace a day of hard climbing.  Right now, the only excersises I do are pull ups, dead hangs, and offset campusing.  Does anyone have a good varied workout they would be willing to share?

Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65

BUMP

Yoda Jedi Knight · · Sandpoint, ID · Joined Apr 2019 · Points: 0

I tried something once that I think can be close to what you're looking for.

Get a chair and put it a few feet behind the board. You'll put your feet on the back or seat of the chair to simulate climbing something overhanging. Adjust position of chair to change simulated steepness. You might want a crashpad or cushion underneath.

Now you can do things like move your hands around different holds, pullups on different holds (feet on or off), one arm lockoffs (feet on, I can't do feet off), practice cutting feet or adding other core exercises, there are a lot of possibilities.

Dave Mencel · · Menomonee Falls, WI · Joined Jun 2014 · Points: 10

You can download our training guide from dangerbuddies.com (Manuals Page > BuddyBoard Training Manual). I work for them, we make the BuddyBoard and although the manual is geared towards our board, it certainly adapts to any hangboard you own. The training guide was written by the coaches of Adventure Rock (our local gym) with some content from Crux Chiropractic and we make it available publicly. Hope it helps ya! 

Dead Head · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2017 · Points: 65
Dave Mencel wrote:

You can download our training guide from dangerbuddies.com (Manuals Page > BuddyBoard Training Manual). I work for them, we make the BuddyBoard and although the manual is geared towards our board, it certainly adapts to any hangboard you own. The training guide was written by the coaches of Adventure Rock (our local gym) with some content from Crux Chiropractic and we make it available publicly. Hope it helps ya! 

Thanks! I will definitely check it out.

Johanna Jones · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2011 · Points: 1,933

Eric Horst: Training for Climbing

https://youtube.com/user/training4climbing

TrainingCafe has emphasis on home training as it was created sometime around March 2020

Trevor Taylor · · Seattle, WA · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0

Also I don’t know how your hangboard is mounted but you could buy another hangboard and mount it above to give a campus board like effect.

Pweeter Pwansdale · · Santa Cruz, CA · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 55

I love the deep-dive of the buddy board manual, good recommend. buddyboard manual

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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