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DRY TOOLING IS WHACK

Original Post
Brian O'Leary · · Boston, Ma · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 50

Made you look.  You thought I was here to bash on drytooling, but i'm not.  That shit is dope.  

Using ice tools on  classic (high quality) rock climbs isn't that cool though.  Jon completed a fantastic mixed ascent of Cryokinesis.  Give the article a read to hear the story and see some rad pictures!

https://rockandice.com/opinion/style-matters-cryokinesis-and-the-new-ethics-in-new-hampshire-winter-climbing/

Double J · · Sandy, UT · Joined Apr 2006 · Points: 4,284

Thumbs up. 

Andre Chiang · · Durham · Joined Mar 2019 · Points: 95

Soo sweet to see some local crushing!! hope a vid comes out. 

Russ Keane · · Salt Lake · Joined Feb 2013 · Points: 392

Pretty cool, but I'm not so sure that switching from rock shoes to ice boots mid-route is "the way of the future" or however Zac phrased it.  Sounds to me like the very anti-goal of climbing, especially winter, in being so involved and time consuming.  But obviously a great idea and it must have been a sick send! 

samuel von hammerstien · · North Conway, NH · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 571

Ahhh you got me!

Seems like we are using classic (high quality) rock routes subjectively.  As you know people differ in opinion on what is a good route.

That picture are obscene. No one should have to see a fish close up of Eric's bulge. 

And yes, Russ, I do hope not damaging our resource is the "way of the future." 

Sam

North Division · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Feb 2021 · Points: 0

Yeah, that's dope and all.  But aid is aid bruh.  It'd be radder if you put crampons on while hanging from a figure-4.  

As far as @Samuel mentioned above, I think you are being a bit subjective.  So, as "The best and most humble  climber in the MWV", I North Division would propose the law hence forth should be:

-If I say it's a good climb, you can't touch it with ice tools.  

-If I say it's an okay climb, you can mixed climb it (you need some real ice).  

-If I say it's bad, you can dry tool it however you see fit. 

Any Questions?

-With love, 

-North

Mike Morin · · Glen, NH · Joined Nov 2007 · Points: 1,350
North Division wrote:

Yeah, that's dope and all.  But aid is aid bruh.  It'd be radder if you put crampons on while hanging from a figure-4.  

Great point! I'd say Jon has become a standard bearer for improving ethics in the White Mountains by choosing to climb Cryokenesis in the style that he chose to do it in. As with the advent of any push towards a new style there is usually room for improvement. Northy I think you've identified it, and we will likely soon see renewed interest in the figure-4 from all around climbers, not just those pushing steep dry tooling grades.

Brian O'Leary · · Boston, Ma · Joined Jul 2013 · Points: 50

Ohh jeeze. Well North division, I was wondering could I drytool the prow, or nah?

Sam, If we're going to start talking about peoples bulges.  Let's at least get their names correct, it's spelled Erik.  I'm sure that was just a typo, but spelling someone's name right can go a long way to helping someone feel welcome in a community.  

People's opinions certainly do differ.  But I would hope we can come to an understanding of what the community wants.  Not just the loudest person in a room.   

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 460

Dry tooling damages the rock . period.  is what it is.  If there is no ice on it and its not a pitch in the mountains its  a rock climb not a dry climb.  If its a summer rock climb it needs to have significant ice on it for it to not be a completly contrived  dry climb. One tiny drool at the top that you might not even use  dosen't justify damaging a whole climb.  Heck those weini spurt climberz at Rumny manage to rock climb all winter without gloves, warm boots and pointy things so just because its cold out is no excuse to trash a good rock climb.  if there is enough ice to actually USE your ice gear on ICE then its a cool mixed climb. otherwise you are just strokeing your ego at the expense of the rock. 

samuel von hammerstien · · North Conway, NH · Joined Sep 2010 · Points: 571

The North Division collective, someone finally noticed that, I'm tickled.  That one is a jab at a certain someone.  ;)  

Dont worry a the larger community is getting together to do exactly what you purpose. Maybe you all should join the community in the discussion that FOTL is hosting. www.nhledges.org/events/

Brain, I didn't care enough to look.  Dont worry no ones going around accusing me of being welcoming.   

Sam

Ward Smith · · Wendell MA · Joined Oct 2020 · Points: 26
Nick Goldsmith wrote:

Heck those weini spurt climberz at Rumny manage to rock climb all winter without shoes

Fixed it for ya.

Nick Goldsmith · · NEK · Joined Aug 2009 · Points: 460

Or  shirts  from what I saw on the old people's thread;)

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

Northeastern States
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