Best Biner For Belaying off an Anchor? Round Stock?

I see a TON of professional rock guides utilizing "round stock" carabiners so their rope does not get stuck when belaying a partner up off an anchor - as opposed to using a non-round carabiner that might bite or catch on the rope (like the Petzl Attache).

Does anyone have any recommendations for biners for this task? Or even to set up top ropes? Any help appreciated.

I don’t have personal experience, but whenever this comes up someone always comes and recommends the Rock Exotica Pirate HMS. Looks good, people say it’s like the way the attache used to be. Thinking about getting one myself once my current HMS is dead.

Guides like round stock carabiners because the rope feeds through with less friction when using guide mode or a munter hitch, not out of issue that other carabiners get the rope stuck.  When you're belaying climbers from the top for an entire day all the time, the easier the rope feeds through makes a big difference.  However, if you're just an average person that doesn't climb a ton and swaps leads on multi-pitches, then it's not gonna make much of a difference worth buying new gear to solve.  I just have the standard BD rocklock carabiners because they were the cheapest options at REI when I was buying them and they work fine.

But if you want to geek out about belay carabiners, this is a pretty good video going through them

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=utIncRdPuH4

Also my preferred carabiner setup for topropes is actually 3 oval non-lockers.  Just make all the gates opposed and it's just as safe a 2 lockers.  They wear out a lot slower since they're symmetrical and you can use both sides evenly plus the three carabiners provide a large radius that is very smooth for toproping.  Also since it looks like you like ice climbing, the other benefit is that the gates won't potentially freeze up since they don't have a locking mechanism.

Old gold petzl attaches are awesome for guide mode. If it’s a bolted anchor, i like to use the lightest and smallest lockers you can get. Current favorites are Camp photons. 

Also my preferred carabiner setup for topropes is actually 3 oval non-lockers.  Just make all the gates opposed and it's just as safe a 2 lockers.  They wear out a lot slower since they're symmetrical and you can use both sides evenly plus the three carabiners provide a large radius that is very smooth for toproping.  Also since it looks like you like ice climbing, the other benefit is that the gates won't potentially freeze up since they don't have a locking mechanism.

This is good to know - I may have to start doing this! Thanks everyone for the input. 

Along with the Pirate, the Sterling Falcon is very similar to the old attache. 

The other advantage of round stock ‘binders is they don’t wear out as quick. If you wear through the ‘side’ of the H profile. You get a sharp edge.

Again, more of an issue for heavy use like guides. Or people in sandy areas.

And different ropes, belay devices and carabiners all play together in different ways. Try a few to find a combo you like.

If you're belaying from above and using a Grigri, Vergo or similar, it doesn't matter what kind of locker you're using because the rope doesn't run over the carabiner. And belaying from above is easier with those devices, compared to an ATC Guide.

Ocun Harpy is practical, but so is just about any round stock hms biner for belaying. For top rope setup directly two simple Mad Rock Oval screws. Ovals are great. 

This guy does a pretty good review of different round stock carabiners.  

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UH398tk2UTU

Christian Latuszek wrote:

This is good to know - I may have to start doing this! Thanks everyone for the input. 

I utilize 2 non locking steel ovals and 1 locking steel oval at the top rope master point.  Steel has a lower coefficient of friction and minimizes the amount of aluminum oxide on your rope (Cleaner hands! Yes its just for esthetics), but when you are running programs it does make a difference. I'm also getting ready to add a new master point set up for routes with bad rope drag, by using a "Shear Reduction Pulley / Device", thus giving an even wider radius. These are used on Rope Courses for belays.

I have been replacing program equipment to steel for its durability, less friction and the esthetics.  I just purchased 15 KONG Steel Mini Rescue Eights as we run into issues with small kids (50-60 pounds) not having enough weight to actually feed the device as normally rigged. For years we have been running them in "Sport Mode" but it has people asking questions as it not the specified rigging method. This was not allowed in Scout programs and I started working with some at the National level to allow the "Sport Mode" and it is now accepted.  I'm also just switching to steel HMS Locking carabiners for belaying. I know most climbers wouldn't want it, but I wish I could find a steel Sticht Plate or ATC! Yes I could use a link of chain, but it is not rated for belaying.

jc5462 - You might want to look at the Mammut Nordwand Alpine belay device.  It was steel inserts for the rope bearing surfaces.

acrophobe wrote:

jc5462 - You might want to look at the Mammut Nordwand Alpine belay device.  It was steel inserts for the rope bearing surfaces.

I will take a look. Thanks. 

I really like the Metolius Element Locking Biner

https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/element_belay_carabiner.html

Kevin Mokracek wrote:

I really like the Metolius Element Locking Biner

https://www.metoliusclimbing.com/element_belay_carabiner.html

this and the CAMP compact lock (not made anymore) are the best i've ever used.. https://www.camp-usa.com/outdoor/product/discontinued/discontinued-ss2020/hms-compact-lock-carabiner/