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Did Five Ten get rid of half their shoes?

Original Post
Zachary Zwick · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 39

I know Five Ten purged a bunch of things after being bought by adidas. But even something like the grand stones are gone on their website. They have like 5 shoes now. And one of them (Anasazi Pros) they haven’t restocked in 6 months and seem to be phasing out. What’s up? Any idea why?

Welcome To The Zoo · · UMass · Joined Sep 2017 · Points: 1,805
Long Ranger · · Boulder, CO · Joined Jan 2014 · Points: 669

If the catalog is correct, looks like an OK spread, but certainly not the 5.Ten I used to know and prefer. Grand Stone is still on there, yes? 

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205

Hey Zachary. I don't know about the new line-up, but I would recommend finding another brand of shoes if you like the "old" Five Ten. As a longtime Fine Ten user, I can honestly say that as of the last year's production run (or perhaps the year before), they perform and fit nothing like the old models, and are now, well...just bad shoes.

Normal Customer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

The new Anasazi is so ugly. The OG version is better. Might have to look into unparallel shoes now.

Frank Stein · · Picayune, MS · Joined Feb 2012 · Points: 205
Normal Customer wrote:

The new Anasazi is so ugly. The OG version is better. Might have to look into unparallel shoes now.

Nothing wrong with ugly shoes, but honestly, I feel like the last really good shoes that Five Ten has made were first generation Hi Angles and the blue Quantums. Last generation of Arrowhead was okay I suppose. 

Normal Customer · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Jul 2020 · Points: 0

True but why change a classic that is good. It just looks like the quality of material is just worse now from 5.10 which is sad.

Trad Man · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Mar 2018 · Points: 0

No blanco no sale. 

God I wish my foot could fit in a Sportiva shoe. 

Sam Cieply · · Venice, CA · Joined Jun 2016 · Points: 25

I like my Aleons, they have held up well.

David K · · The Road, Sometimes Chattan… · Joined Jan 2017 · Points: 424

I'm pretty on board with the new lineup.

The Aleons are my bouldering shoe, seem to be holding up well so far, but I'm more of a trad climber than a boulderer. They smear surprisingly well for something so downturned, and the heel is really good. They're basically the first bouldering shoe I've ever liked.

I switched to the Grandstones from the TC pros as my trad shoe, and they're fantastic. I used to get my TCs resoled with Stealth rubber because it would give you more stickiness and sensitivity. But the Grandstones have some adjustments that make them work a bit better with the Stealth rubber, namely that the toe is a tiny bit hooked at the end, which gives you a bit more support with the softer rubber than the TCs did. It took a bit to adjust from straight edging with the TCs to a more smedge-y style with the Grandstones, but now that I'm used to it, they work better for me on the same footholds as the TCs.

I had originally switched to TCs from the Pinks, because of a noticeable drop in quality in the Pinks, but with the Grandstones I'm definitely back on the 5.10 train.

Matt..C · · South Lake Tahoe, CA · Joined Apr 2011 · Points: 20
Long Ranger wrote:

If the catalog is correct, looks like an OK spread, but certainly not the 5.Ten I used to know and prefer. Grand Stone is still on there, yes? 

https://www.unparallelsports.com/product-category/climbing/ 

Unparallel reminds me a lot of "old" fiveten. I remember reading they comprise of former fiveten team along with the rubber formula. Not sure how true those bits are, but the styling does seem familiar. 

Garrett Hopkins · · Baraboo, Wi · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 80
Normal Customer wrote:

The new Anasazi is so ugly. The OG version is better. Might have to look into unparallel shoes now.

Highly recommend. Recently switched from the Moccasyms to the yellow Unparallel mocs. They are so much better. They mostly feel the same, but durability-wise. They’re just made better  

Garrett Hopkins · · Baraboo, Wi · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 80

Also, it looks like 5.10 just changed the name of the Anasazi line to NIAD, made them ugly and jacked the prices up more 

R Bridge · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Nov 2020 · Points: 0
Julian H wrote:

I don’t get it you, guys don’t like the unparallel colors? You can also try Cypher or SoIll, they are basically old 5.15 shoes.

Anyone out there has the new 5.10 shoes? How are they holding up? Just curious to see if the new designs age better. 

My new Pinks MIC , are holding up fine, so far. Got them about 6 months ago and used them about 15 days at the gym, and 5 at the crag.

Garrett Hopkins · · Baraboo, Wi · Joined Feb 2018 · Points: 80
Julian H wrote:

I don’t get it you, guys don’t like the unparallel colors? You can also try Cypher or SoIll, they are basically old 5.15 shoes.

Anyone out there has the new 5.10 shoes? How are they holding up? Just curious to see if the new designs age better. 

I got a new pair of Anasazi VCS and a new pair of Hiangles, both secondhand but in good shape. The Anasazis got absolutely trashed in just a few weeks. The rand started coming off all around the shoe. I just superglued it and it’s fine, but less than ideal. The Hiangles are nice. They smell really bad, but seem to be holding up well. It’s gym training season here in Wisconsin so I’ve been using them both about 6 days a week for a few hours a day. 

Zachary Zwick · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 39
Frank Stein wrote: Hey Zachary. I don't know about the new line-up, but I would recommend finding another brand of shoes if you like the "old" Five Ten. As a longtime Fine Ten user, I can honestly say that as of the last year's production run (or perhaps the year before), they perform and fit nothing like the old models, and are now, well...just bad shoes.

I actually like the new shoes. I’ve had Anasazi pro’s and grandstones. Liked them both actually. They just fit my feet well unfortunately. Terrible quality on both of them... hence why I have credit to adidas as was looking on their website. 

Zachary Zwick · · Seattle, WA · Joined Jul 2019 · Points: 39
Welcome To The Zoo wrote:

https://www.flipsnack.com/adidasOutdoorNAM/ss21_adidas_fiveten_climb_app_ftw_flip/full-view.html

What they are supposedly gonna field this spring

Weird that this is so different from what’s on their website now. I’d agree this looks like a nice enough selection

AlbertL · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Oct 2015 · Points: 0
Garrett Hopkins wrote:

Highly recommend. Recently switched from the Moccasyms to the yellow Unparallel mocs. They are so much better. They mostly feel the same, but durability-wise. They’re just made better  

Agree with this. I switched to these about 2.5 years ago or whenever it was that 5.10 was acquired by Adidas, and I am still on the same pair. I probably don't climb the volume most people here do, but I get in on average 2 times a week in the bouldering gym and 10+ days outdoors a year.  The toe rubber on top is finally peeling and the sole is feeling a bit thin. I've got a pair of barely used testarossas, new katanas and miuras, but I am probably going to pick up another pair of these because they have been so good all around. 

Andy Bennett · · Scarizona · Joined Mar 2006 · Points: 716

FiveTen shoes have become garbage. Check out Unparallel. Much much better made and more durable.

Claudine Longet · · Unknown Hometown · Joined Sep 2020 · Points: 0

Old guy who's been way out of touch here.

I thought I heard from one my daughter's climbing partners that the guys who sold it to Addidas were going to start another shoe company. Obviously there'd be a timeout period for a no compete clause, but is this true?

Joe Lynch · · Ojai, CA · Joined Aug 2019 · Points: 0
Garrett Hopkins wrote:

I got a new pair of Anasazi VCS and a new pair of Hiangles, both secondhand but in good shape. The Anasazis got absolutely trashed in just a few weeks. The rand started coming off all around the shoe. I just superglued it and it’s fine, but less than ideal. The Hiangles are nice. They smell really bad, but seem to be holding up well. It’s gym training season here in Wisconsin so I’ve been using them both about 6 days a week for a few hours a day. 

I got brand new Anasazi VCS about a month ago, and the glue is failing after about 4 pitches total. Nothing major yet, and the shoe still performs very well, but the lack of quality is disappointing. 

Guideline #1: Don't be a jerk.

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