Which shoes would you recommend that are on the "stiff" side?

I'm climbing in Tenayas right now and they fit my feet really well.  I used to climb in 5.10's, which also fit well.  La Sportivas and Boreals don't fit my feet well at all, which I learned the hard way.  I've never tried Evolv.

My big toes are killing me and my partner thinks it's because the Tenayas are just too soft so standing on small edges abuses my big toe tendons.  He thinks I should try a stiffer shoe, but I have no idea where to start looking.  He climbs in Miuras but (again) Sportivas usually don't fit my feet.  Any suggestions for a stiff shoe that you've had good experiences with?

Scarpa Instinct, whichever flavor you like.

If you want edging machine, get the Boostic.

Never tried the Booster, but from what I gather it’s a slightly softer version of the Boostic. 

Hard to say if they’ll work without knowing why Sportiva shoes don’t fit your feet, but the Katana Laces are a great stiffer shoe and they fit a bit differently from most other La Sportiva shoes.  I mainly wear Five Ten but the Katanas fit me.

La Sportiva has so many different shoes. Wide to narrow, soft to stiff, flat to downturned. Saying LS doesn't fit me is like saying, I had a silver car once and it keep breaking down. If you go to the LS website they have a great chart that shows the width and performance for all their shoes.

In what way are your big toes killing you and what model of Tenaya shoe are you having trouble with? 

It could be something as simple as too tight, wrong toe box for you or even that you can't tolerate downturns. I can't. I felt like the screaming stretched tendons on top of my toes were going to tear every time I tried them. I so wanted more agressive shoes to work for me for years, but alas, they don't. If you tolerate downturn, I agree, boostics. If not I've had luck with TC pros with midsoles added at resole time, and 5.10 Verdons.

Acopa JB’s are pretty stiff. 

mountainhick wrote:

In what way are your big toes killing you and what model of Tenaya shoe are you having trouble with? 

It could be something as simple as too tight, wrong toe box for you or even that you can't tolerate downturns. I can't. I felt like the screaming stretched tendons on top of my toes were going to tear every time I tried them. I so wanted more agressive shoes to work for me for years, but alas, they don't. If you tolerate downturn, I agree, boostics. If not I've had luck with TC pros with midsoles added at resole time, and 5.10 Verdons.

I have the Oasi, Ra, and Tanta.  I mostly wear Tantas in the gym and for some outdoor routes mostly because they're cheap ($90) and instead of resoling (which costs almost $90) I just toss them and buy a new pair.  I unfortunately bought the Oasis too small and they're excruciating to climb in.

I have some TC Pros that I found used, but they don't fit too well and they seem kinda clunky for bouldering in the gym, but they're definitely stiffer with a very beefy lining so maybe I should just buy a bigger size and try that.

I'm hoping a shoe change will fix my toe problem; I was doing fine but increased my volume substantially lately (3-4 hour gym bouldering sessions several times a week) and my toes just swelled up and now the right big toe doesn't bend any longer (at the interphalangeal joint, not at the MTP, so not classic hallux rigidus).  I've been taping it to the 2nd toe lately and that seems to help, meaning perhaps more support would do the job.  I may try the boostics... they're pretty affordable and look to be a fair bit stiffer than the Tantas. Thanks!

Nate Allen wrote:

I'm climbing in Tenayas right now and they fit my feet really well.

My big toes are killing me and my partner thinks it's because the Tenayas are just too soft so standing on small edges abuses my big toe tendons.

Which model do you find too soft? My friend loves his "Masai" for ability to stand on micro-edges. 

Edit - you answered my question in the previous post. Just to add - "Injuries" forum has a few threads on how to deal with toe issues. Some find shoe inserts helpful.

+1 for the Scarpa Boostic. Its a stiff one.

The new pinks MIC are pretty stiff in the toes, and the Unparallel Up lace is even a bit stiffer. For  a downturned model I find the toe box of the Vapor V to be stiffer then the katana lace.

I’ve been searching for a stiff-under-toe shoe forever and haven’t found it. My problem is that katana laces and scarpa boostics don’t come in my size ~47 so they are just too small to cram in to. 

Nate Allen wrote:

I have the Oasi, Ra, and Tanta.  I mostly wear Tantas in the gym and for some outdoor routes mostly because they're cheap ($90) and instead of resoling (which costs almost $90) I just toss them and buy a new pair.  I unfortunately bought the Oasis too small and they're excruciating to climb in.

I have some TC Pros that I found used, but they don't fit too well and they seem kinda clunky for bouldering in the gym, but they're definitely stiffer with a very beefy lining so maybe I should just buy a bigger size and try that.

I'm hoping a shoe change will fix my toe problem; I was doing fine but increased my volume substantially lately (3-4 hour gym bouldering sessions several times a week) and my toes just swelled up and now the right big toe doesn't bend any longer (at the interphalangeal joint, not at the MTP, so not classic hallux rigidus).  I've been taping it to the 2nd toe lately and that seems to help, meaning perhaps more support would do the job.  I may try the boostics... they're pretty affordable and look to be a fair bit stiffer than the Tantas. Thanks!

That kind of interphalangeal pain can easily come from compressing that joint by sizing too small.

Don't know your size, but My last pair of boostics are up on the for sale forum, just about brand new.

I’d take a look at the unparalleled UP lace. They come in a regular and low volume

I second the UP Unparalled lace recommendation. On a friend's advice, I sized them slightly on the large size (street shoe size) but when I need them to be very tight I wear a thin woman's 'half stocking'--usually worn with dress shoes for the extra fit--works well.

Buy the softest shoes & just size them PAINFULLY  tight for edging. One of my mentors in the 80’s was the master of rock on the tuff edging test pieces of Smith & would wear boreal ninjas so tight he’d have to insert plastic produce bags in the heel to get them on. Watched Scott Franklin edge up “to bolt” in a pair of Asolo 1/2 friction loafer socks (this edging route beat down Adam Ondra 30 years later)Edlinger wore these also. I find that my toes are weak these days due to gym climbing. As a side note, JTree, Idylwild, or SoCal type friction slabs don’t build foot strength. Many of the slab “legends” in SoCal rock never truly climbed harder than 7b+ (I’m a SoCal boy these days) To bad gyms won’t let us climb barefoot. It is a great development skill. Foot strength is a lost art. 

I've got really fucked up feet, and any shoe makes my toes hurt after 3-4 hours of climbing. Some much more than others. Maybe you're unfortunately like me, and no shoes will fit your foot because you got goblin feet. 

I have oasis, too, and I agree they're kinda soft. If you like them, but need a bigger toe box, then I highly suggest the tenaya mastias. They're stiffer, too. The green teneyas are also just a stiffer version of the oasis.

I've had a similar problem for years and have determined it is due primarily to shoe size. I would recommend wearing a very comfortable slipper (I like moccs) when training or long sessions. Your feet will get stronger but your toes won't get beat down. A lot of people insist on wearing tight shoes all the time and I have found that approach leads to injury.

I have gone up 1.5-2 sizes in all my shoes and climb harder because of the lack of pain. The Maestros by Scarpa are a great firm but aggressive shoe and excellent for bouldering. 

Lastly, try rest if your feet really hurt that much